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Thread: SR20DET runs rich

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  1. #1
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    Default SR20DET runs rich

    Okay need help lol. A lot of backstory so please bear with me. redtop SR20DET in 89 240sx. Just got out of local performance shop. Engine rebuilt, all oem nissan bearings/rings/seals/etc. Brand new head. New timing chain, tensioner, water pump, timing chain cover.
    Peak Performance Gold Valve Springs
    APEX .8mm headgasket
    HKS Step 1 264 intake/exhaust camshafts
    Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers
    Nismo thermostat
    Pro-Fab Intake Manifold Gasket
    SARD 550cc Injectors
    ARP Rod bolts
    ARP headstud kit
    Walboro 255lph
    NISMO FPR
    Garrett GT25R .64
    Z32 MAFS
    FMIC
    3" intake/exhaust
    Greddy Profec Type - S
    Greddy Turbo Timer

    Enthalpy Tuned ECU (Z32, 550cc)

    Just got the chips two days ago (old ones were corrupted) Car starts, runs extremely rich (wideband showed idle 10:1 a/f) will idle rough when cold, once warmed up will not idle. The minute you take your foot off the gas, shuts off. Car runs real boggy/bucky lower rpms, once it clears the gas out higher rpms runs good.

    Planning on going to florida sometime soon and meeting scott there and having them dyno/examine/fix car if it is the tune. Just doing this to see if there is a possiblitly of it being ANYTHING else.

    Also, while car was in shop, removed ecu and hooked up aem ems and car ran perfect. Good idle.

    Things I have checked
    O-rings, not leaky.
    Boost leaks - none.
    CTS - Brand new
    MAFS - Good
    TPS - Good
    Spark Plugs/coil packs - Good
    All wiring on car was checked over, some redone (some wires were butt connected 2 or three times from the half-assed motor swap done before I got the car. All of it is single wires, shielded)
    Everything else on the car is perfect.
    At its rough idle stays around 1k, shows a vac of ~10-12.
    Fuel pressure is dead on, have a defi gauge inside. Increases 1:1 for boost. Idle ~40psi

    Please please help. I can barely drive the car, shuts off whenever I cant hit the gas. Its going to be expensive for me to get it down to florida (dont want to drive it, got to get a friend to help get a trailer to take it down there. Plus about 7-8hrs away.) Is there anything else it could be besides the tune? PS Ecu is good, was checked out at enthalpy while car was in shop.
    2010 Scion xB

  2. #2
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    Timing might be off. Vaccuum is very low. Mine is about 19-20psi at 800rpm idle. Check for vaccuum leaks. Also, are you sure the TPS is good? I've seen a lot go bad, and believe it or not...the SR will run fine with it completely unplugged. So try that. And are you sure the MAF/wiring are good? A crappy idling car....that dies as soon as you open the throttle, is a good indicator of a bad/improperly wired in MAF.

    FYI: when the TPS is bad...car will idle poorly, stutter like hell at part throttle...but seem to rev almost normally at WOT. Try unplugging that mofo.

    Also check to see if your plugs are fouled. Is the car smoking or anything? Turbo might be crap and spitting coolant onto your o2.

    I dunno, good luck man.

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    Turbo is fine, about ~1000 miles on it. The car ran fine before the tuned ecu, old setup was just safc II on fact ecu. One more reason I really think its the tune. But I am trying everything before making this road trip lol. I will try the TPS thing soon and get back the results. And what do u mean open the throttle, it dont die when i give it gas just when i left off the gas entirely. sorry if i misunderstood that part
    2010 Scion xB

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    Okay unplugged the tps, car would keep running and idle would rise-fall about 100-200rpms. up-down-up-down.
    Checked again for boost leaks, hooked a compressor up till about 25~psi, unplugged it and it did not drop at all until i removed my fitting.
    as for vacumm lines, I am using a golden eagle vacum manifold td into the brake booster for boost gauge, bov.
    the wastegate is run to boost controller then vac manifold.
    the fpr is run to the tb.
    2010 Scion xB

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    HIV+ HalfBaked's Avatar
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    I'd say it'd have to be the tune as well.

    Why not just hook up the afc, or just go with something other then the enthalpy?


  6. #6
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    because I paid 500 bucks for the ecu to be tuned. thats a lot of money just to throw away
    2010 Scion xB

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    HIV+ HalfBaked's Avatar
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    You could always re-sell it, sounds like you have a good amount of money into the s13, don't wanna throw it away because of a bad tune...


  8. #8
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    Ya but I cant really re-sell it lol saying its tuned for a setup when it doesnt work for that setup :P
    2010 Scion xB

  9. #9
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    since your fuel pressure is dead on according to you and you have an aftermarket FPR, i'm gonna say replace your TPS and redo your maf wires, make sure you keep the guage of the wire consistent. If that doesn't provide the results you want then its in your tune. but if you say its running a 10:1 AFR at idle thats a shit ton of fuel thats gonna need to be pulled on the tune.

    my car was doing that a while ago and it turned out to be my fuel pressure regulator.

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    i know im stupid and i need to die and burn in hell but wats a TPS

  11. #11
    WANTS TO GO FAST! 2.0civic's Avatar
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    throttle position sensor
    FUCK B&D COMMUNICATIONS!


  12. #12
    HIV+ HalfBaked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by b18hatch
    throttle position sensor
    I want to delete your post for telling him the truth.

    That kid is a fucking retard and doesn't deserve to know.


  13. #13
    a.k.a. s14slider
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    you could also try adding some good ground wires. My ran like that and it would hesitate to go at times. Someone suggested that and it ran perfectly after that. Also try adding one to the fuel pump.
    I don't need a sig. Oh wait, damn it.

  14. #14
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    +1 for adding ground
    240sx's in older condition can have poor connections and grounds
    it made a differance when i regrounded both of my 240s fuel pumps and mafs

    Seeing the world through a lens.........

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