Need Advice: RB20DET Build-up for Drift

[Ran]

Okay, so I recently bought a 280Z with an RB20DET in it. The engine runs good but I think it still needs more. The goal, as of right now, is 350WHP with a high redline. I've read on some RB sites that a good engine balancing can bring the redline to 11,000 but I'm rather skeptical. I do know that the head gasket, head studs, turbo, fuel pump, water pump, and injectors are all going to be replaced and the engine re-tuned.

Anyone have any advice on how I should go about this? I know there are some Nissan guys on here so help me out. Thanks!

[Spyder]

There are some nissan guys but they are all haters of the RB... i dont know enough to give you any good insite, try contacting a shop like BG or E&E (they do alot of RB's) and see what they have to say.

Good luck, this is why I am going SR because people know something about them... and parts are available.

[1439/2000]

lol you bought that car.

Anyway the rev high around 9k safely but they dont make power so its pointless. As for 350 whp, I would get an SR. There IS a reason why thats the bandwagon. Those motors came out in 1986 and MOST that are in America came out of Laurels and Z31/R31s. People saying they got theirs out of a late model r32 with low miles are doing some wishful thinking.

Plan a full rebuild eventually. You could put down about 260 ish with injectors, boost controller,fuel pump, safc2, z32 maf. Thats about all you would need in that car to slide. 350 is just pointless in an rb20. You would be dropping tons of money into a motor thats not worth it.

Yeah whatever I have a Galant but I came from Nissans so I do have plenty of experience with them. Take my advice, paint the car, straighten out the interior, get the motor running up to par, running safe 250whp ish and have fun with it.

good luck!

[Ran]

Thanks. I'm pretty happy with the RB now but I know it has more potential. I've been asking around sites like RBowners.com and rb20det.com for info but we'll see how it goes. Right now my head is still kinda in the clouds since I just got the car. The body exterior is pretty straight except for the passenger fender and a dent under the driver side fender. Other than that is just needs paint. Badly. Also, the wiring is pretty ghetto but that's gonna get redone this weekend.

Also, the earlier engines that came out in the Laurels were the Redtops and some were even SOHC.

[1439/2000]

Thanks. I'm pretty happy with the RB now but I know it has more potential. I've been asking around sites like RBowners.com and rb20det.com for info but we'll see how it goes. Right now my head is still kinda in the clouds since I just got the car. The body exterior is pretty straight except for the passenger fender and a dent under the driver side fender. Other than that is just needs paint. Badly. Also, the wiring is pretty ghetto but that's gonna get redone this weekend.

Good. Don't focus on power on an rb20. Here's an example of a laurel that the motor could have came out of. Even blacktops were in some z31s thats still like 86-87.






So that should give you an idea. Your motor potentially 21 years old and need to be healthy. Really straighten out the rigged shit first. Make it run nice.

250 hp should be your goal. Don't listen to s13 kids. lol

[Nopaintsls]

^^ that shit looks like its in mint condition...

get an SR...

[Ran]

Here's an example of a laurel that the motor could have came out of. Even blacktops were in some z31s thats still like 86-87.

Forbidden links removed. Here's what I got from the site.

Engine variations: The rb20det came in two different forms, the earlier red top with the NICS system and the newer silver top version with the ECCS system. The red top is the earlier version of the rb20det and came as standard with the r31 skyline, z32 fairlady and the nissan laurel, whilst the r32 skylines and nissan cefiro came with the silver top version.

RB20DET Redtop
1986-1987: 178bhp (NICS version)
1988-1989: 190bhp (ECCS version)
RB20DET Silvertop
1989 onwards: 214bhp

[sebastianHoff]

none of the early rbs will rev safely to 11k, its not really a good idea to rev out any rb before the series 2 r33 motors. the oil pump drive sucks and has caused catastrophic failure on a lot of the early motors. the water pump cavitates at high rpm and the turbo tends to blow up at anything more than 13psi. then there are the ring-lands, which we wont get into.

heres the first thing you dont need to rev past the factory rev limiter. i have never seen an rb dyno chart that the motor made more power beyond the factory rev limiter. its not a honda, you dont need to flog the piss outta it to get it to move. next you should buy a crank collar, n1 oil pump, n1 water pump, and get all that goodness installed. these are the parts you need to replace as they have and will fail at continuious high rpm (anything past 5k). since you've gone into the motor to fix that shit, you might as well buy new pistons and rods. gtr stuff is cheapest, but its hard to find. next replace the turbo, a 30r ought to be more than enough. get some 444cc injectors, fmic, and z32 mafs. then pick which ever fuel management system you like best, i've heard good things about the aem stuff. the stock headgasket and headstuds are good to 500whp or so, but you already tore the motor down so what the hell.

thats about it, doesnt really seem worth it does it? heres the thing about most nissans, you can add about 50-75whp on the stock shit and still be "ok". at that point you kinda have to replace everything, so the difference between 400whp and 700whp (in the case of my rb25) is literally $800. its just a bit hard to commit to 700whp.

[TallGuy]

Mike at tophat loves RB's give him a call.
http://tophatperformance.com/

[Ran]

I just shot them a e-mail. Thanks!

[mocha latte cupcake]

Rb's are great engnines, mine was gay b/c i had a damn mines ecu.... change the turbo on it to a T3/T4, new injectors, clutch, flywheel, exhaust, intake, a good front mount, and BOV and you'll be impressed.... i never had a problem running down vettes C5's not slow as C4's in my RB powered 240... guessing by the other cars i walked on i'd say i was around like 260 hp or so... i'm sure someone here will call BS but i spanked a Stage 3 roush, with upped boost, and a whole mess of ish... he made somewhere in the neighborhood of like 320 or something to the wheels.... its a great engine just maintenace was a bitch. BEST OF LUCK!

[Ran]

It's already got an intake, exhaust, and clutch. For some reason, this car has an stage 3 unsprung six-puck clutch. :confused:

[Outphase]

anything that isn't SR20 is considered bad in most of the Nissan 'experts' eyes. Good luck with your goal man, I'll keep a lookout for you, my roomie knows a thing or two and I'll post anything I can help you with

[1439/2000]

anything that isn't SR20 is considered bad in most of the Nissan 'experts' eyes. Good luck with your goal man, I'll keep a lookout for you, my roomie knows a thing or two and I'll post anything I can help you with

Don't be a tool. There is a reason why those motorsets are $1000 and Sr's are $2500 besides demand.

[SampaGuy]

its not extremely hard to get 350rwhp from a SR, RB20, or KA-t. if u do it right it doesnt really matter which engine u go with and all can be reliable (of course they will have diff characteristics and diff prices)

[4DRGSR]

rb's are the way to go anyways...parts are easier to get your hands on.......try jhotimports.com they are here in augusta and very cheap....when i worked at my old shop we did 30 or so swaps with rb20's,25's,and a few 26's.....great motors......good power and remember only 60lbs. more than the stock kade

[zoborax]

Try Tophat performance. tophatperformance.com. Mike knows what he's doing, and he can build you a solid rb20 motor with lots of cool s**t. Trust me. Give him a call, and he will hook you up!

[Ran]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I got around to degreasing the entire engine and car yesterday so it's really clean now. This is going to be a fun project.