View Poll Results: B20 or LS

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  • B20 w/o vtec head

    123 70.69%
  • LS w/o vtec head

    51 29.31%
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Thread: LS vs B20 (non-vtec)

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  1. #1
    Georgia Muscle twinj's Avatar
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    what is the redline on a b20. I don't think they are the same


  2. #2
    Master of the G2 Integra cardesignz's Avatar
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    To answer your question, my B20Z2 redlines @ about 6800.

    Now to properly end any debate and confusion over the capabilty of the B20 vs. and LS, mine has 146whp/137tq with just i/h/e after a dyno tune at mainstream. I am pretty sure I had some bad gas in the tank and I know it had some cheap oil in it and only 80 miles on the swap, so it could definitly be putting out a little more at this point and 150+whp should be attainable with just bolting on a high flow cat (if it is not already putting that out). If you want cheap power without dealing with vtec, go to car-part.com and shop around the local salvage yards for a 1999-2001 Honda CR-V engine (this is the B20Z like I have and the B20 to get). I paid $850 for mine after tax, which is about what you would pay for a JDM B20B, which usually turn out to be the low compression engine that is basically only useful for a turbo in my opinion (they should technically feel about like a b18, just with a little more torque if that is all you are looking for).

    stats from Honda in the CR-V:
    1996-1998 USDM B20B/JDM B20B 126hp/133tq 8.8:1 CR
    1999-2001 USDM B20Z/JDM B20B 146hp/133tq 9.6:1 CR

    As can be seen from my results, when properly tuned, there is no debate. B20's rule.

  3. #3
    Sleeper.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cardesignz
    To answer your question, my B20Z2 redlines @ about 6800.

    Now to properly end any debate and confusion over the capabilty of the B20 vs. and LS, mine has 146whp/137tq with just i/h/e after a dyno tune at mainstream. I am pretty sure I had some bad gas in the tank and I know it had some cheap oil in it and only 80 miles on the swap, so it could definitly be putting out a little more at this point and 150+whp should be attainable with just bolting on a high flow cat (if it is not already putting that out). If you want cheap power without dealing with vtec, go to car-part.com and shop around the local salvage yards for a 1999-2001 Honda CR-V engine (this is the B20Z like I have and the B20 to get). I paid $850 for mine after tax, which is about what you would pay for a JDM B20B, which usually turn out to be the low compression engine that is basically only useful for a turbo in my opinion (they should technically feel about like a b18, just with a little more torque if that is all you are looking for).

    stats from Honda in the CR-V:
    1996-1998 USDM B20B/JDM B20B 126hp/133tq 8.8:1 CR
    1999-2001 USDM B20Z/JDM B20B 146hp/133tq 9.6:1 CR

    As can be seen from my results, when properly tuned, there is no debate. B20's rule.

    Not all b20's come out of a CR-V There like 5 or 6 diff kinds... Which month/year is yours?


    JDM b20b Non VTEC. Yet that is...

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