how much gain should I get?

[ATK_Designs]

How much gain should I be expecting with a mild head work after tuned on my H22?

Crower Stage 2 cams
Crower valve springs & retainers
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears

Thanks guys. I don't know if it's worth $1,200 for me to do on my daily driving since I won't be working on this car anymore.

Thanks again.

[AE86 Dorifto]

Sorry, I can't help you. Just do some research and I'm sure you'll find some info about modding that engine.

[HyPer50]

tree-fiddy

[4dmin]

How much gain should I be expecting with a mild head work after tuned on my H22?

Crower Stage 2 cams
Crower valve springs & retainers
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears

Thanks guys. I don't know if it's worth $1,200 for me to do on my daily driving since I won't be working on this car anymore.

Thanks again.

well i couldn't imagine you gaining that much on that alone to make it worth your while... i would say spend some extra loot and get a stand alone to work w/ the head package (hondata???)

or if you don't want to spend more money i would say buy nitrous call it a day and save some $$$

[scttydb411]

def need to get a tuneable ecu package.

pm me if you want a tuneable ecu and not spend the $$ on handata.

[fight club]

after tuned maybe an extra 60 hp?

[ATK_Designs]

Scotty, I already have a Jun P28 ready for tune. The reason I want to ask is I'd like to squeeze out a lil more HP on the car before I get it tune @ Mainstream.

This car will be my daily driving, so I'm not working on it anymore. I have bigger plans for the G35C. That's why.

If spending 1200 won't justify the gain then I'd rather not, since it'd still be slow anyways. So it's not like I can get about 30whp out of that would I?

[1439/2000]

after tuned maybe an extra 60 hp?

Haha no way. 20 to the wheels max.

On an NA car especially a honda you dont get 60 hp gains from cams/gears/whatever. Pretty much anybolt on is going to give you a few hp.


Now tuned with spray maybe 60 but not without it.

[fight club]

yea i meant crank
and deff pulled number out of my ass.

[Ludester]

your gonna be close to 200whp. you might not make it but you'll be close

[Jaimecbr900]

You're not going to gain as much as $1200 worth unless you plan on it being an add-on to other power adders. Cams are only one side of the equation, so you'll need fuel and management too. I think you mentioned you already had management, but you need it all in order to see the kind of gains that are noticeable.

[ATK_Designs]

All that and I won't make over 200whp? Screw that, I'm done with the car Time to move on and spend that money on the G

[Ludester]

All that and I won't make over 200whp? Screw that, I'm done with the car Time to move on and spend that money on the G

With that setup if you throw on a custom header from RMF, kteller etc... and get a really good tune you'll be right there. The RMF header puts out great numbers on a camed h22. The problem is, its 900 bux!

[Ludester]

There's a guy up in Tennessee with that exact same setup except his head has benn blue printed and his base runs where right at 195ish if I remember correctly so just get a custom header with the cams and you'll be good man.

[Vteckidd]

How much gain should I be expecting with a mild head work after tuned on my H22?

Crower Stage 2 cams
Crower valve springs & retainers
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears

Thanks guys. I don't know if it's worth $1,200 for me to do on my daily driving since I won't be working on this car anymore.

Thanks again.

if you want to make the MOST power, heres what i would do for $1200:

BUY A HEADER, RMF or TDF(our header)
Buy some STAGE1 cams, that require no valvetrain, ie skunk2 stage1s, crower 402as, etc. you dont need big cams

I know STOCK h22s making 180-185, with a RMF or Our header an mild cams i see 190+ easily. 200whp would be dependant on how fresh your motor is.

You dont need headwork, you dont need fuel, stock injectors are fine, you dont need cam gears, you dont need any of that stuff unless your going over 210-220whp. stock H22 heads an inj are good for 220-230whp

[Vteckidd]

With that setup if you throw on a custom header from RMF, kteller etc... and get a really good tune you'll be right there. The RMF header puts out great numbers on a camed h22. The problem is, its 900 bux!

our header made more power than RMF an ours is local an cheaper:
TDF RED vs RMF BLUE


TDF header:



also what do you mean by blue printing the head lol, you mean porting?

[Ludester]

yeah ported and something else lol....

Mike I haven't seen a dyno with h22 making more than like 175ish whp stock so if you could give me a link that would be great. To add to the 175ish there is a kid up north that has the rmf header on his car with i/e/ and obdII to obdI conversion tuned with crome and he only made 175whp. We suspect that he will gain another 5whp once he gets rid of the dip when vtec kicks in. (it was also posted on honda-tech.)

Now with all that other stuff aside, lets talk about MSP's header..... I see that you have it in a hatch but have you guys actually test and tuned it IN a prelude that still have AC? Why I'm asking is because I'm working with a friend to design my own and it will only cost me about $400 bucks. The design is pretty much like the one above. So whats the price of it? Will I keep my AC?

Thanks

[AnclyT]

my stock h22,
with cheap ebay $20 header, crappy 2.25 exhaust, and cheap ebay $10 intake made 181 whp and 141 tq..

oh yah, btw.. i have used crower valve springs and crower titanium retainers in good condition for sale!

[Vteckidd]

i only offer them for swapped chassis at the moment, we are working on a Prelude/accord design right now. we just need a test car so we can mock it up on it

Also, i dynoed a h22 that made 185whp with just S2S2's an S2 Intake. rest was STOCK including the header.

Goinfasterthanu on here also makes 184 or something with a BONE STOCK motor.

Rottieater made 189whp with just an ANR header

[AnclyT]

lol, i think my ebay parts were reducing my hp

[Ludester]

Are we talking about h22a4' or a1's in a bb4 or bb6 chassi. or are talking about h22a' in a hatch chassis?

[Vteckidd]

im talking about OBD1 an OBD2 h22s, US an JDM spec. they are all within the same whp, just like a JDM gsr DOESNT make more than 1-2whp more than a USDM gsr.

chassis as you know doesnt effect power

[AnclyT]

exactly...
i have an h22 civic AND h22 prelude 01 bb6..

you are too skeptical! dyno your car and you may be surprised..
then again.. you may not

[93H22ACX]

doesnt really matter what year your motor is from... the import thing is if your motor is healthy or not...

you can see there are lot of different stock h22 motors that produces a wide range of power from 160whp up to 205 or so STOCK. just depends on how healthy your motor is....

[Goinfasterthanu]

Goinfasterthanu on here also makes 184 or something with a BONE STOCK motor.

Well as of my last tune i am at 193/161... All i did was add a dc header {had to as my tune date was comming fast} and remove my cat! My chart is posted in the n/a fourm. Im gonna hit 200whp with just boltons..hehe...

[Vteckidd]

thats really good man, great job!

now when are you going to test my header? PM me , we can do it this week

[Goinfasterthanu]

Thanks i owe it all to ED at balanced for taking the extra time to get those cam gears just right.. My mods are really working well. Ill pm you about the header test monday.. Go see my dyno i would like to know your input...Anyone around here making this kind of power on a bolton h22?

[K24cb7coupe]

with that setup look for some where between 190-210whp.

[allmotoronly]

Yea that setup should be good for about 195 at the wheels, or about 12 WHP gain or so.... You really should try an Accord Euro R intake manifold (dont waste time with skunk2... I had one for hte H22A, they really suck) and a larger throttle body. The Euro R IM doesnt have the secondary butterfly like the usdm H22A or any 200hp h22a for that matter. The jdm Type S, SiR S-Spec, and Euro R are the only H22's with single plane IM's... It will help with throttle response and you will realize a larger gain.. also it sounds a hell of a lot better too!!! deeper intake and VTEC engagement sound since it is straight through. You will need A Euro R or Type S ECU as well, since a P13 will throw a CEL and not run right with that IM since there is no secondary runner butterfly or sensor for the butterfly on the Euro R IM. Also, The Crower stage 2's are close in lift and duration to the S-spec camshafts, so no more tuning would be needed. It would be very streetable. You could add a VAFC if you wanted to add a little more fuel if you advance timing, but thats about all you would need to do. oh yea get type S injectors as well.

[Ludester]

you can remove the butterflies from the stock intake manifold or trick them to stay open all the time. Yes the Euro R IM is the best one honda made for the H22 but you have to a lot of modifications for it work. About the ECUs. Do you know how much a type-s ecu cost? close to 500 bux. He can easily get a p28 chipped ecu. Or get a P72 chipped with a base map. Then get an hour dyno tuning done with crome etc.. it works out a lot cheaper than buying an OBDII euro r ecu or type-s ecu. He gets something that will take to modes a lot easier. Because the type-s and euro-r ecu's are obdII they is a good chance that the won't even start after about three starts. It happen to a friend of mine when he had to do emission. Stick with is stock IM and have the butterflies stay open. Also since he is getting cams whether they'd be type-s or crower he would still need to get a tune. VAFC is out of the question since thats the worse tuning mechanism on the market to date.

Other than that, I agree with everything else you said AllMotoronly.

Bottum line. If you get cams stay away from obdII. Why? Because obdII ecu's are learning ecu's.