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Thread: OVERHEATING AGAIN, LOL

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    Default OVERHEATING AGAIN, LOL

    ok so driving my car this evening it started overheating about 3/4 the way. then it would come back down and up. It would actually start going down when i would floor it. this all started when i dynoed it today and on the 3rd run, the lower radiator hose split where it meets the thermo house. Put a new hose on, filled it. Drove it for 3 hrs, then got on the interstate and it started this. I have similar problems on my last motor builds too and im like wtf??? cause other peoples builds i have done have zero issues. anyways, She was overheating this evening one time and the heater started blowing cold. i was like WTF??? I got to a friends house and put the hose to the radiator and it ran not to much pressure, a nice trickle, it tok about 30 seconds to fill up the radiator. Im not pushing the coolant out of the overflow tank. Im NOT SMOKING AT ALL, NEVER HAVE. I CANT SEE ANYTHING LEAKING ON THE GROUND ANYWHERE. WHERE THE expletive IS MY COOLANT GOING??!??!? I know im going t get a bigger radiator. Im guessing 630hp/440tq isnt good on a dual core vtec radiator.

    edit from when written: i burped and filled it last night. drove it this morning, i got about 8 miles and it started to climb to 3/4, this time it wouldnt go down. The heater stopped working. Now this happened to me in my del sol when i built my first motor so i dont know what the fuck the deal is. but when it happened in my del sol, it was steaming/pushing water out of the reservoir. this time theres barely ANY water in my reservoir and not one bit of steam, and no heat also. WTF??? no smome out the tailpipe, it actually like to go down if i drive the shit out of it and it will go down to about half way if i idle it.
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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    You sure it's really over heating or just the gauge, maybe something electrical? Can you check the temp on a hose or something when it starts to surge?

    *edit*
    ...but like you said, where's it going?! If the temperature is 3/4 the way up then it would be boiling, can you hear it at all? Are you running pure coolant or what % of mix? Have you pressure tested it?
    Last edited by speedminded; 04-10-2006 at 09:43 AM.

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    Official Reality Checker Romeyo07's Avatar
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    should be a clear sign that you're having sensor/electrical/gauge issues. If your radiator isn't hot, you're not boiling over, there's no smoke, etc, then it has to be your sensor, sender, or gauge. I've had this issue on my talon where I thought I was overheating, and it was the gauge cluster that was goofed. Same with my 240sx. Temp jumped up, but the car was cool. Changed the sensor/sender, etc....good to go.


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    I am siphoning it all out when you aren't looking, then once you've had enuff you will say "F*CK IT. I'M GETTING OUTTA THE GAME" and part out your hatch. Then I will buy all the parts.... WHHOOOHHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAH. So get to parting bitch!!!! LOL
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    u have a air bubble in ur cooling system. add more green juice and STFU!!

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    lol that bubble wont come the fuck out!!! Its not electrical. but yeah, its overheating, and no heat. When its 2 hashes from red, i pulled over and popped hood thinking it was going to be boiling in the reservoir but it wasnt, it was actually lower. I was like, uhhh, ok. I couldnt hear anything. Both hoses were warm, the lower was not warm enough to make me not be able to hold on to it though, but the upper was hot where i couldnt hold on, but thats how its suppose to be.
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    does ur heat wrk when the temp gose up? Bring ur shit by the shop, i specialize in heat system malfunctions.

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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
    lol that bubble wont come the fuck out!!! Its not electrical. but yeah, its overheating, and no heat. When its 2 hashes from red, i pulled over and popped hood thinking it was going to be boiling in the reservoir but it wasnt, it was actually lower. I was like, uhhh, ok. I couldnt hear anything. Both hoses were warm, the lower was not warm enough to make me not be able to hold on to it though, but the upper was hot where i couldnt hold on, but thats how its suppose to be.
    Have you tried raising the front of the car and then filling? problem might be at the heater core and just need to make the radiator higher...

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    Official Reality Checker Romeyo07's Avatar
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    if your sensor/sender is out of whack, it'll tell you that you're overheating when you're not. I'd replace those first and foremost.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Romeyo07
    if your sensor/sender is out of whack, it'll tell you that you're overheating when you're not. I'd replace those first and foremost.
    if im having issues with my heat then obviosly the sender or temp switch is not the problem. BTEC my heat does not work when the temp gauge goes up.
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    Official Reality Checker Romeyo07's Avatar
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    ah, I read that wrong. my bad.


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    Quote Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
    if im having issues with my heat then obviosly the sender or temp switch is not the problem. BTEC my heat does not work when the temp gauge goes up.
    Yeah, sounds like it is out of whack... just pour some of this in the radiator....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -whack-jpg  
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    lol
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
    if im having issues with my heat then obviosly the sender or temp switch is not the problem. BTEC my heat does not work when the temp gauge goes up.
    yep, ur cooling system is low. My shit was leaking like a mofo and i knew it was time to add coolant when my heat didnt work. LOL!!!
    Just like my rank seal is leaking and i know its time to add oil when vtec dnt work. lol!!

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    ok serious stuff now, lol
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    I say throw the Koyo on there and see what happens.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    if you have very little green stuff in thre will it cause overheating. more water than green stuff
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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
    if you have very little green stuff in thre will it cause overheating. more water than green stuff
    yes and no. Water boils at 212° while a 50/50 mix is 225° or so....I think 75/25 coolant/water mix is like 235-240°. It won't cause overheating because you shouldn't be running over 190° or so anyways but it does allow it to boil at a lower temperature. Also, pressure enables a slightly higher boiling point, if you put it under pressure [which it should be] then the boiling points could easily be 10° higher. No matter what the mix if it ever boils then you are overheating and problem is not the mix but somewhere else.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedminded
    yes and no. Water boils at 212° while a 50/50 mix is 225° or so....I think 75/25 coolant/water mix is like 235-240°. It won't cause overheating because you shouldn't be running over 190° or so anyways but it does allow it to boil at a lower temperature. Also, pressure enables a slightly higher boiling point, if you put it under pressure [which it should be] then the boiling points could easily be 10° higher. No matter what the mix if it ever boils then you are overheating and problem is not the mix but somewhere else.
    You took the words right outta my mouth!! Stop doing that!! LOL
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
    if you have very little green stuff in thre will it cause overheating. more water than green stuff
    More water than green will cause ur t-stat to open more frequently. but wont cause car to over heat if ur system is full. Temp going close to hot is due to insufficent amount of cooled liquid in block which cause the temp of what little coolant u have in there to go higher than normal bc it doing all the wrk. Some teck-nickle thinking for yo ass!!

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    can you give me the anylitical data results for your findings? temp higher for less liquid volume. lol
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
    can you give me the anylitical data results for your findings? temp higher for less liquid volume. lol
    I can test... drop said vehicle off at my home/garage. I will then loan you a B16 powered EF hatch, a B18 stroker EG hatch, or a 248WHP N/A Spec V until I can finish the extensive road/race testing of your vehicle.
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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
    can you give me the anylitical data results for your findings? temp higher for less liquid volume. lol
    dunno if your joking or not, longgg day/weekend for me...

    Mass & Volume, similiar to less oil is going to cause more friction...less liquid is going to cause (or allow) higher temps...if there is an air pocket then the air is instantly going to be the same temperature as it's surrounding while the liquid is not as easily changed...it's not an air-cooled engine, it's water cooled with a thick water jacket that surrounds the cylinder wall, it needs the constant flow of liquid from the radiator to cool it down.

    A half pot of water is going to boil alot faster than a whole one even though the stove/fire is the exact same temperature.

    or maybe try this analogy, take a hot water hose in the sun...turn the water on halfway and it won't cool the hose down near as fast as if you turned the flow on more....

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    lmao of course i was joking. i was just fucking around with btec. haha
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    True... and if your girl takes her time when she blows you, it will be WAY more of a mouthful than if she just gets gangsta with it. Gotta get warmed up!! LMAO!!
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    ok heres whats up.

    I just went and drained my radiator, checked my thermostat, its fine. refilled and burped. when i rev the motor up though it would bubble up a little bit but that seemed normal to me because of the circulation. it would bubble just sitting there idling anymore though so i capped it and drove. I drove for about 15 minutes just like this morning. then i beat the shit out of it. Now normally when i would really get on it hard, the needle would rise to exactly half way then fall back to normal temp. thats what it was doing this time. it would go to about half and then float slowly back to normal temp. I dont know if its cause im using a stock dual core radiator or not, but my old motor did that as well. When i got back, the needle was at normal temp and i popped the reservoir and the water level was near the top and small bubbles were coming out, does pressure bleed off into the catch can, im guessing so. the revervoir was about half full when i left to test drive it, i guesss when it cools off it will get sucked back in. i know that i saw wetness on the upper hose from it spattering out of the catch can lid which wiggles anyways and doesnt make a seal. its the kind that just twist about an 1/8 of a turn to seal.
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    drove for 30 minutes half highway half redlights this morning, still not doing it.
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    So you're good then?
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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    That was my first thought when you explained in the first post, that you had an air pocket in the coolant system somewhere. I've had cars here at the car lot that would do the same thing as yours was, just have to bleed it down and put pressure on it and keep filling. The only other thing I could think was if you had a seep at a certain point on the head gasket. I've seen that also where a car would run up hot and come back down b/c it was just seeping past at one particular cylinder. I hope the problem is taken care of, good luck.

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    when burping are you leaving the bleeder screw open until you get a steady flow of coolant and no more bubbles? may not have been blead all the way....probably a dumb question for someone w/ a 5-600hp turbo honda though
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    Quote Originally Posted by MR.org
    when burping are you leaving the bleeder screw open until you get a steady flow of coolant and no more bubbles? may not have been blead all the way....probably a dumb question for someone w/ a 5-600hp turbo honda though
    Yeah, it's still slow. We were racing one day... he pulled HARD and left me. But we were racing to MY house, not to wherever he was going... when I got home he was not there... I WON!!
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    no bleeder on my engine. just the rad cap.
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    gotcha...that a b series thing? i know my old turbo d had a bleeder screw setup
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    some b series have it, some done, i believe gsr dont. mine is supposed to but it broke off and i sealed it.
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    im so fuckin frustrated with this. this is the last time im gonna get input before i start ripping shit apart.

    today i get off work at 5pm. leave out for atlanta one hour trip. I get about 20 miles into it, starts over heating like a bitch, 3/4 the way up, then it starts going higher and i finally pull over cause i wasnt going higher. i fuckin let it sit, finally pop the cap, prolly pour a cup of water in there. crank it ,drive it, not even prolly 12-15 more miles it starts again, 3/4 the way, then starts going higher. i pull off, let it sit, refill, then continue on to my destination cutting it off at every redlight to prevent further heartache. get to my destination, let sit for about 4 hrs. pour another cup of water in. leave out at 10:15pm for home. would not overheat one fucking bit. not a drop, so i get closer to home and start beating on it. 4th gear pull 16 psi. nothing. stayed the same. did another, still fine. Get on my country road and do another. then i do 2 -3rd gear pulls at like 18-19 psi, hard pulls spinning tires like greased lightning. still not shit, pull into drive way it sits for about a minute and half idling AND THEN IT STARTS TO GO UP, WHILE IM IDLING. it gets 3/4 the way up so i hold the gas at like 6 grand and the fucker goes back down. to the middle ish area and i cut her off to come inside and start this bitchin. WTF IS THIS BULLSHIT, i cant ge it to overheat beating on it, just driving it normal*sometimes* and idling it. This is fuckin retarded. Im changing the radiator for a brand new oem dual core tomorrow and if that doesnt help im ripping this shit apart.
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    Are your fans working as advertised??
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    fan always works, never turns off, wired that way
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    maybe i can help. the oem dual radiator can support the high number. yet when it comes to air in the system. first make sure the system you have in the car is seal such as air is not being pulled from anywhere else.
    second it takes a good while to make sure the system is good.. on my gsr it took me 30 mintes to get the bubbles out. i left the rad cap off and opened the valve.
    if the t-stat is good the if just need a good bubble check.

    if ur going to buy a oem one just get a after market one because its cheaper unless u have a discount
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    sensor??

  40. #40
    www.MSSRACING.com SPOOLIN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Northwest Georgia
    Age
    41
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    5,777
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    i just took my head off, on cylinder 4 on the intake side, the gasket had black shit on it on the head side, and the water jacket part of the gasket, the little metal holes were broe around the edges lol. the head also had the black shit on it, only in this spot. when i took the gasket off, it was really wavy like warped, sad thing is is that it was like that when i installed it, maybe i was a dumbass for doing that. now im trying to get these fucking o-rings out.
    www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
    Daily D: 2007 Dodge 2500 MEGA CAB, Cummins Turbo Diesel

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