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Thread: DA Integra, Bad CKP...not what you'd expect though..

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    mm...Needs some Salt teh_mugen18's Avatar
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    Default DA Integra, Bad CKP...not what you'd expect though..

    OK, i have a 1990 Integra that was converted from obd0 to obd1 with an lsvtec in it, and running on a CROME chipped P28 with prettymuch all new parts. The problem with it is, it throws a CEL with the code #4 Crank position sensor. Now I know normally, if the car was throwing this code it would most likely not run, or run like complete crap. Well, in this case, it runs almost perfectly. Idles smooth, and starts up everytime with ease. The only thing bad about it is it has very little acceleration when the engine is warm, but i know it is because i need to get my ecu tuned. I want to fix this CKP issue before i get tuned though..


    I followed the flowcharts from honda in the service manual, but it really doesnt add up. The resistance from the CKP shows within the correct range, at the distributor plug, and at the pins on the ecu's plugs. So, i dont see how there could be a short in the wires. Its driving me nuts, and i am getting a new distributor tomorrow evening, but i just wanted to know beforehand if it would actually solve the problem by excluding the wiring from the equation. let me know what y'all think.


    And i installed a new distributor in the car today, but nothing has changed. It still throws the same code, and im not sure if its the wiring or if it could possibly be a bad chip in the ecu??


    ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
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    Bad dizzy or ecu

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    so, its definately not a bad dizzy, so I guess it would be the ecu... is it not a possibility that the chip that I got couldve gone bad? because I had the shop disable the ELD sensor circuit, and now the ecu is showing up two of the codes I had them disable previously.


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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusEG View Post
    u remind me of a wigger !

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    Check your OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness
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    ^^^^i checked at the end of the conversion harness, and it showed the proper amount of resistance all the way through to the ecu...


    ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusEG View Post
    u remind me of a wigger !

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    usally a bad chip would give u a solid cel and whatever code a corrupt ecu is. i used to have to reburn chips for my car for some stupid reason. have really figured it out yet but it aint an issue right now considering the car dont run.

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    ^^^^^soo, basically you're saying i should probably just have another chip made for the car and it MIGHT solve the problems?


    ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusEG View Post
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    Quote Originally Posted by teh_mugen18 View Post
    ^^^^^soo, basically you're saying i should probably just have another chip made for the car and it MIGHT solve the problems?
    no, i was saying i dnt think its ur chip bc a bad chip usually dont set a sensor code from my experience. it usually sets a "ecu' code.

    when i had a ckp code it was my dizzy. I got a brand new dizzy from napa and it was bad out of the bax. had to use my old ignitor and coil for it to work.

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    see, in this case I'm not really sure what I should do other than take it to a shop where they can re-do all the tests that I did myself.. or I may try to switch ecu's with someone and see what happens. I guess if I switch ecus and it doesn't throw any codes, then it'll definately be the ecu at the root of the problem. and vice versa for the wiring/dizzy..


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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusEG View Post
    u remind me of a wigger !

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    I would try ur ecu in someone elses car maybe. If ur car is burnin em up, u dont wanna owe someone a ecu. throw urs in a car and c if it throws the came codedss.
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    Or, i also thought about just running my own set of wire directly from my ECU to the lines where the CKP comes off the distributor, just so i know for a fact that there's no shorts anywhere, just to see if it could possibly change anything...?


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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusEG View Post
    u remind me of a wigger !

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    have you ever seen a stripped down wiring harnes...... the sensors dont do straight to the ecm in all cases sometimes they are incorporated in multiple circuits.......

    id be very careful

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    Quote Originally Posted by dallasb84 View Post
    have you ever seen a stripped down wiring harnes...... the sensors dont do straight to the ecm in all cases sometimes they are incorporated in multiple circuits.......

    id be very careful

    lol im actually stripping down an extra harness now to check that, and so far its looking like those two wires actually do go directly to the ecu... its just the blu/yel(+) and blue/grn(-) wires that come off the CKP sensor... They're even in their own jacket away from the rest of the wires too.


    ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusEG View Post
    u remind me of a wigger !

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    check your ecu in a car not throwing the codes with their chip unless the setup is the same, then use your chip too. like i said in your other thread it wouldn't hurt to reflash the chip again just to double check. i've had customers come through that had the same code and got 2 "new" distributors that were bad.

    try:
    1. dist from friends car that is known good.
    2. try your ecu in known good car with their chip and then your chip

    the sluggish acceleration is because after the car warms up, the timing enrichments go to normal and the crank position code tells the ecu to go to a default timing that is more safe just in case the timing/positioning is indeed out.
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    hey so r u gona sell ur old distributor if u r hit me up...678-328-7240

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