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Thread: EH. Since i got no help from H-T... here. LSV computer question.

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    mm...Needs some Salt teh_mugen18's Avatar
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    Default EH. Since i got no help from H-T... here. LSV computer question.

    I've got this LsVtec that was recently built, and now its to the point that its almost ready for starting and being broken in. My new question that arises has to do with the computer systems... I know that supposedly you arent supposed to break in a motor on a basemap, or without some way to watch the AFR's and that the best way is to do it on a dyno.

    But what i was thinking/wondering is, if it would be an okay thing for me to hook up my basemap chipped lsvtec ecu and run an Apex'i VAFC and a Wideband oxygen sensor combination, and just basically keep close watch on AFR's/tweak it myself on the streets until i can get it to a dyno?

    or just leave the car completely down for 3more weeks (not even initially starting it) until i can actually get the right monies to jump it on the dyno and get it fully tuned? I know this is the best option, but if there are other ways that can work just as well, i really wanna get the car back on the road sooner rather than later...


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    Stang Mod slostang's Avatar
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    tow it to the dyno, have them do the work to your ecu, and break it in on the dyno while tuning it. modern engines dont really require a break in period. just crank it up and let it idle for about 10-15 mins or so before you get ready to go to the dyno to make sure you dont have any leaks and to let it get up to temp once, then change your oil and make sure there isnt anything out of the ordinary with the old oil (metal shavings, misc bad shit) then its off to the dyno.
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    pm scotty for the best correct answer. ideal is to wait it out. the ar and vafc might dont know.


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    If its N/A just run it with a base map or stock ECU till you get a tune. I've ran a dozen Ls and b20/vtecs on stock ecu's till I get a tune. It wont hurt anything , there are thousands of people that never get them tuned and have no issues. If you wanna be safe, just keep your foot out of it, till you get a tune......
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    same here

    Quote Originally Posted by punkr6 View Post
    If its N/A just run it with a base map or stock ECU till you get a tune. I've ran a dozen Ls and b20/vtecs on stock ecu's till I get a tune. It wont hurt anything , there are thousands of people that never get them tuned and have no issues. If you wanna be safe, just keep your foot out of it, till you get a tune......

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    Giggity Giggity Goo! southside's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by punkr6 View Post
    If its N/A just run it with a base map or stock ECU till you get a tune. I've ran a dozen Ls and b20/vtecs on stock ecu's till I get a tune. It wont hurt anything , there are thousands of people that never get them tuned and have no issues. If you wanna be safe, just keep your foot out of it, till you get a tune......
    X2 everybody swears that if you run it with out tuning it will blow or not run right.But if your not dogging the car I dont see why it would hurt anything.My friend had three motors never tuned and ran stock ecu ran fine.
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    As long as the computer is a b series vtec pcm, you're engine is NA, you aren't running a ridiculously high compression (12.5+) and some huge cams, you'll be fine.

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    ^ Correct

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    morethanmeetstheeye imperception's Avatar
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    all good answers, however, the SMARTEST and BEST thing for you to do is wait for your dyno day and tune...otherwise, shift at 3K and ride it. It's up to you though. I had luck both ways...basically a light street tune on Chrome for about a year and then MS for the dyno tune. I would NOT recommend waiting any longer than you have to.

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    Quote Originally Posted by southside View Post
    X2 everybody swears that if you run it with out tuning it will blow or not run right.But if your not dogging the car I dont see why it would hurt anything.My friend had three motors never tuned and ran stock ecu ran fine.
    interesting how people can make this assumption without even knowing what compression the motor is.

    Try that with a 12:1 motor and tell me what happens.

    Depends on whats done to the motor. If its a relatively simple motor , 11:1 and under you can get away with driving it sure, but i would not even think about engaging VTEC until its on a dyno. Just be warned that if the car runs too rich you will get poor ring seal , if it gets too little you run the risk of scarring the cylinder walls.

    I dont see how guys build these motors, then dont want to get it properly tuned. You spent money on pistons, rods, bearings, machine work, but 2 hours on a dyno OMG I HAVE TO WAIT TO SPEND THE MONEY!

    Do it right or youll regret it. Are you willing to roll the dice and find out?

    IMO:
    Crank it up on stock ecu, check for leaks, let it run for a few minutes, shut it down, change oil, crank it back up and fix any CEL. At that point if you can afford it tow it to mainstream, if you cant, drive it but be careful and baby it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    Crank it up on stock ecu, check for leaks, let it run for a few minutes, shut it down, change oil, crank it back up and fix any CEL. At that point if you can afford it tow it to mainstream, if you cant, drive it but be careful and baby it.
    Agreed.

    Why take the chance after spending all that money? Just crank it up on stock ecu and fix any small problems you might have like CEL codes or leaks. Will also cut down time and money on the dyno.
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    morethanmeetstheeye imperception's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    interesting how people can make this assumption without even knowing what compression the motor is.

    Try that with a 12:1 motor and tell me what happens.

    Depends on whats done to the motor. If its a relatively simple motor , 11:1 and under you can get away with driving it sure, but i would not even think about engaging VTEC until its on a dyno. Just be warned that if the car runs too rich you will get poor ring seal , if it gets too little you run the risk of scarring the cylinder walls.

    I dont see how guys build these motors, then dont want to get it properly tuned. You spent money on pistons, rods, bearings, machine work, but 2 hours on a dyno OMG I HAVE TO WAIT TO SPEND THE MONEY!

    Do it right or youll regret it. Are you willing to roll the dice and find out?

    IMO:
    Crank it up on stock ecu, check for leaks, let it run for a few minutes, shut it down, change oil, crank it back up and fix any CEL. At that point if you can afford it tow it to mainstream, if you cant, drive it but be careful and baby it.
    Voted best answer

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    if you can't get it dyno'd right away at least have a decent basemap and not vtec or ride it hard. i've tuned so many, i have plenty of basemaps that should get you in the "close enough" area if you're going to do that until you can get it tuned.
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    mm...Needs some Salt teh_mugen18's Avatar
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    The motor is on stock low comp pistons lol its not even 10:1. And for me, its not even about trying to purposely WAIT to go get it dynoed, its about saving the cash up to actually be able to pay for the 2hours that i'll need once its sitting up there on the rollers...

    But, so far from what i've read, you've all pretty much said that since its a nice simple build, i should be able to get away with driving it as long as i take it really easy, correct???
    Last edited by teh_mugen18; 12-01-2009 at 09:29 PM.


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    •R.I.P. LsVtec DB1....hello b20v EF...!•
    Quote Originally Posted by cactusEG View Post
    u remind me of a wigger !

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    ls/vtak slut! SlamminCRX's Avatar
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    if your motor is got differnet compression like vteckidd says then i do suggest getting it tuned
    if you kept stock pistons and stock head then you can run a stock dohc vtec ecu like a gsr or b16 and you'll be fine

    i never got my ls/vtec tuned. had stock ls pistons lol
    i just ran a b16 ecu, ran great.

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    mm...Needs some Salt teh_mugen18's Avatar
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    Well, i've got a chipped p28 basemap in there from ImportExperts, idunno if thats "close enough" close enough. It ran my old LSvtec just fine, until it blew. (had no correlation to the ecu/AFR's either... a connecting rod bolt broke.)


    ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusEG View Post
    u remind me of a wigger !

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    IA Senior Member punkr6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teh_mugen18 View Post
    The motor is on stock low comp pistons lol its not even 10:1. And for me, its not even about trying to purposely WAIT to go get it dynoed, its about saving the cash up to actually be able to pay for the 2hours that i'll need once its sitting up there on the rollers...

    But, so far from what i've read, you've all pretty much said that since its a nice simple build, i should be able to get away with driving it as long as i take it really easy, correct???
    Quote Originally Posted by teh_mugen18 View Post
    Well, i've got a chipped p28 basemap in there from ImportExperts, idunno if thats "close enough" close enough. It ran my old LSvtec just fine, until it blew. (had no correlation to the ecu/AFR's either... a connecting rod bolt broke.)
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