overheating/ no heat

**Hektik** · 08-17-2009, 08:20 PM

98 civic lx.. completely stock d16y7..

when i bought it, it didn't have a thermostat so i put one in and bled the system about 7 fan cycles.. the radiator cap was a discount auto parts 16lb cap so i changed it for a 13lb cap. no luck...it will run fine for a while as long as im not going above 3.5 to 4k RPM. also had a misfire code. on cylinder 2 and 4 and a random misfire code... both top and bottom hoses feel hot to the touch. when it starts to overheat it will bubble out of the reservoir.. after it overheats the car wont start i ussually have to jump it... also the hose from the reservoir to the rad was getting kicked of when it would start to overheat so i put a clamp on it... the heat will not work... i did an oil change and the oil seemed fine except it was really thin... no milk on the oil cap but when it overheats the cap seems to get a greyish film on it very thin but a film non the less.... the coolant in the rad doesnt seem to have any oil in it.. but the reservoir seems to have oilresidue on it....fan kicks on fine

so im thinking it most likely will be the headgasket.... but im open to sugestions..... heater core maybe...im really trying to stay away from having to crack the head open....

excuse the long post, just trying to give as much info as i can....

**CaTcH22** · 08-17-2009, 09:19 PM

Originally Posted by Hektik

98 civic lx.. completely stock d16y7..

when i bought it, it didn't have a thermostat so i put one in and bled the system about 7 fan cycles.. the radiator cap was a discount auto parts 16lb cap so i changed it for a 13lb cap. no luck...it will run fine for a while as long as im not going above 3.5 to 4k RPM. also had a misfire code. on cylinder 2 and 4 and a random misfire code... both top and bottom hoses feel hot to the touch. when it starts to overheat it will bubble out of the reservoir.. after it overheats the car wont start i ussually have to jump it... also the hose from the reservoir to the rad was getting kicked of when it would start to overheat so i put a clamp on it... the heat will not work... i did an oil change and the oil seemed fine except it was really thin... no milk on the oil cap but when it overheats the cap seems to get a greyish film on it very thin but a film non the less.... the coolant in the rad doesnt seem to have any oil in it.. but the reservoir seems to have oilresidue on it....fan kicks on fine

so im thinking it most likely will be the headgasket.... but im open to sugestions..... heater core maybe...im really trying to stay away from having to crack the head open....

excuse the long post, just trying to give as much info as i can....

Def sounds like the headgasket.

**Barefoot** · 08-18-2009, 01:15 AM

hg all day

**AnthonyF** · 08-18-2009, 08:23 AM

Originally Posted by Barefoot

hg all day

What if he drives at night?

-Ant.

**Barefoot** · 08-18-2009, 01:11 PM

Originally Posted by AnthonyF

What if he drives at night?

-Ant.

lol yah drive at night problem solved lol it makes sense.

**j0nbunklah0m** · 08-18-2009, 01:18 AM

put a vtec head on it since u have to replace the hg

**Turbodude06** · 08-18-2009, 10:59 AM

Originally Posted by j0nbunklah0m

put a vtec head on it since u have to replace the hg

lol

**marcos713** · 08-18-2009, 02:15 AM

^x2! Definetly !

**Hektik** · 08-18-2009, 12:51 PM

preciate all the replies guys..

so i went ahead and got the head gasket, water pump and timming belt.. hopefullly this will fix it...

no vtec head.. its an automatic daily.. so no point...

one quick question once i remove the HG should i take it to a machine shop and have it resurfaced or anything like that...

**CaTcH22** · 08-18-2009, 01:02 PM

YES, it might be warped some. And if you dont youll kick yourself in the ass for havin to do it twice.

**Barefoot** · 08-18-2009, 01:13 PM

Originally Posted by Hektik

one quick question once i remove the HG should i take it to a machine shop and have it resurfaced or anything like that...

yes and head bolts. some say reuse the old. for me to risky get some new 1s. just an fyi arps normally are cheaper than oem.

**CaTcH22** · 08-18-2009, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by Barefoot

normally are cheaper than oem.

Thats a good thing to remember.... ill be sellin ARP's with HG repairs now. LOL thanx.

**Barefoot** · 08-18-2009, 01:21 PM

Originally Posted by QWK D16

Thats a good thing to remember.... ill be sellin ARP's with HG repairs now. LOL thanx.

no joke thats what i do. most of my customer are everyday people who just dd there cars. an i still use them a better, cheap, more reliable, and reusable product than oem so y not.

**CaTcH22** · 08-18-2009, 01:17 PM

good info.

**Hektik** · 08-18-2009, 01:14 PM

cool thanks..... ill post up if i run into any problems... or when im done ...lol...

**Maniacc** · 08-18-2009, 01:18 PM

Originally Posted by Hektik

98 civic lx.. completely stock d16y7..

when i bought it, it didn't have a thermostat so i put one in and bled the system about 7 fan cycles.. the radiator cap was a discount auto parts 16lb cap so i changed it for a 13lb cap. no luck...it will run fine for a while as long as im not going above 3.5 to 4k RPM. also had a misfire code. on cylinder 2 and 4 and a random misfire code... both top and bottom hoses feel hot to the touch. when it starts to overheat it will bubble out of the reservoir.. after it overheats the car wont start i ussually have to jump it... also the hose from the reservoir to the rad was getting kicked of when it would start to overheat so i put a clamp on it... the heat will not work... i did an oil change and the oil seemed fine except it was really thin... no milk on the oil cap but when it overheats the cap seems to get a greyish film on it very thin but a film non the less.... the coolant in the rad doesnt seem to have any oil in it.. but the reservoir seems to have oilresidue on it....fan kicks on fine

so im thinking it most likely will be the headgasket.... but im open to sugestions..... heater core maybe...im really trying to stay away from having to crack the head open....

excuse the long post, just trying to give as much info as i can....

Check the welds on your intake.

**Hektik** · 08-18-2009, 01:47 PM

where can i get some ARP bolts locally?

**Barefoot** · 08-18-2009, 02:37 PM

most honda performance shops. i just hit up summit in mcdoungh.

**Tech5** · 08-18-2009, 03:29 PM

Head is warped

stock OEM headbolts can be reused

I have done 1,256,2458 headjobs on hondas with not 1 issue even at the dealer we use the old bolts

**Hektik** · 08-18-2009, 03:31 PM

Originally Posted by Tech5

Head is warped

stock OEM headbolts can be reused

I have done 1,256,2458 headjobs on hondas with not 1 issue even at the dealer we use the old bolts

if the head is warped can it still be reused if i take it to a machine shop

**Barefoot** · 08-18-2009, 10:20 PM

Originally Posted by Tech5

Head is warped

stock OEM headbolts can be reused

I have done 1,256,2458 headjobs on hondas with not 1 issue even at the dealer we use the old bolts

i dont think we will ever see eye to eye on this one. me personally dont think it worth the risk.

**jmmx258** · 08-18-2009, 10:27 PM

For a DD I usually wouldn't worry myself, until this past winter. While the snow flew, I was slapping together a motor for a friend who swore up and down on his stock head bolts. That was, until I did the unthinkable to him, and grabbed the torque wrench and broke one off. I dont recall the specs off the top of my head, but I was only half way to being tight.

Now, he's got ARP's in his motor

The head doesn't ALWAYS get warped either. Its typical and a GOOD probability, but not always the case. In the same sentence, NEVER put a HG in an over heated motor with out having it checked though. If its still no good after being decked, then your block is probably warped.

**Tech5** · 08-19-2009, 12:49 AM

Originally Posted by jmmx258

For a DD I usually wouldn't worry myself, until this past winter. While the snow flew, I was slapping together a motor for a friend who swore up and down on his stock head bolts. That was, until I did the unthinkable to him, and grabbed the torque wrench and broke one off. I dont recall the specs off the top of my head, but I was only half way to being tight.

Now, he's got ARP's in his motor

The head doesn't ALWAYS get warped either. Its typical and a GOOD probability, but not always the case. In the same sentence, NEVER put a HG in an over heated motor with out having it checked though. If its still no good after being decked, then your block is probably warped.

You can check them yourself... Guess noone knows how to use a straight edge and a flash light huh... lol

Plus a shaved head depending on how much it was shaved can gain alittle hp also over stock lol

**jmmx258** · 08-19-2009, 10:00 AM

It'll really only add a little more bottm end torque uppin the compression. I have a marble bench I use for checking whether things are out or not

**punkr6** · 08-19-2009, 07:39 AM

Originally Posted by Tech5

stock OEM headbolts can be reused

I have done 1,256,2458 headjobs on hondas with not 1 issue even at the dealer we use the old bolts

x2

**Tech5** · 08-18-2009, 03:45 PM

yes they will shave it for around 30-40 bucks and clean it... Then your good to go..Install all new gaskets and seals

adjust the valves also

**Tech5** · 08-19-2009, 10:45 AM

The problem why people have problems with installing stock headbolts after a headwork is due to them not oiling them and finger tight them so they dont cross thread other then that stock OEM used honda bolts work just fine...

**jmmx258** · 08-19-2009, 12:35 PM

I dont have a problem with OE bolts. THe only ARP thing i ever really bought was extended wheel studs for a different look on steelies.

OE head bolts hold up just fine, as you said, as long they're put in right. I'm a FIRM believer in any kind of assembly lube. I prefer Royal Purple, in every aspect of it.

**Tech5** · 08-19-2009, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by jmmx258

I dont have a problem with OE bolts. THe only ARP thing i ever really bought was extended wheel studs for a different look on steelies.

OE head bolts hold up just fine, as you said, as long they're put in right. I'm a FIRM believer in any kind of assembly lube. I prefer Royal Purple, in every aspect of it.

My honda head bolts I only dip them in fresh motor oil... Been doing this for years without any issues ....

**jmmx258** · 08-19-2009, 01:29 PM

As long as they are new, i wouldn't have any doubts that they'd work. When I do a motor build though, I generally buy a good assem. lube.

**Tech5** · 08-19-2009, 02:03 PM

Originally Posted by jmmx258

As long as they are new, i wouldn't have any doubts that they'd work. When I do a motor build though, I generally buy a good assem. lube.

ALL haynes,dealers,alldatapro , michell, all state to use oil on the head bolts. NOT assmeble lube... But both will work just fine...Assemble lube just cost more.

BTW we are talking about installing headbolts not rebuilding a motor get back over here in the right conversation

**Hektik** · 08-19-2009, 02:38 PM

will i need to replace the cam seals?

and why is there no heat?

**Tech5** · 08-19-2009, 06:07 PM

yes cam seals, no heat because there is only air in the system now

**Hektik** · 08-19-2009, 07:03 PM

cool preciate it...

**Tech5** · 08-19-2009, 08:36 PM

anytime!

**Hektik** · 08-20-2009, 10:04 AM

how long should i let the car cool down before i start opening it up.

**Tech5** · 08-20-2009, 09:10 PM

Originally Posted by Hektik

how long should i let the car cool down before i start opening it up.

Depending how hot its been getting you might want to let it cool overnight that way you dont strip any of the bolts

**Barefoot** · 08-20-2009, 10:10 AM

u can start when its hot. by the time u get to the head it should be cool.

**Hektik** · 08-20-2009, 03:33 PM

could a cracked exhaust manifold cause a car to overheat...
i started to pull things apart and the exhaust manifold was cracked right where the o2 sensor plugs into all the way almost to the bolts....

**Barefoot** · 08-20-2009, 04:04 PM

no

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