(UPDATE ON PAGE 2:)CEL ON, IDLING PROBLEM, NOT REVING PAST 3k

[blacknightteg]

Alright, so i installed a header of mine a few days ago and i just today got it finally finished and installed. well unknowningly, the header burnt into my passenger side radiator fan. now the fan isnt work on bit, the driverside still does. so its not running hot or anything. Ill be installing slim light fans on it either tonight or tomorrow. The Man problem that i am having is that there is a air/fuel mixture problem going on somewhere or something. It takes it a minute to actually rev normally, when its able to drive after a minute it only rev's up to 3k. I have been told thats a clear indication that its the MAP sensor. the only thing with that is, that once the CEL comes on, it allows it to rev past 3k. now i was told that if it is the MAP sensor, it would not be able to rev past 3k at all. what the hell is going on?

[IntegraXTR]

run the code and report back, but for the most part it sounds like your o2 is out. Now your car is in safe mode.

[punkr6]

WoW, another " my cel is on but I haven't read the codes thread " Check the codes, fix the fan, and let us know what ya got...

[Barefoot]

WoW, another " my cel is on but I haven't read the codes thread " Check the codes, fix the fan, and let us know what ya got...

just what i was thinking.

[blacknightteg]

just what i was thinking.

im going to check the codes and check the fuses tomorrow, im going to get the new fan installed first. i have to fabricate a bracket worth using on fans. the lil fucking plastic zip tie things they give you are shitty. im going to replace this, hope its that or fuses, and then if its not, replace the map sensor. im REALLY trying to avoide having to take this to a shop.

[blacknightteg]

i dont know how to check teh codes. sorry, im new at this.

[punkr6]

i dont know how to check teh codes. sorry, im new at this.

is your car obd1 or 2 ?

[AnthonyF]

i dont know how to check teh codes. sorry, im new at this.

Bro, there is NO WAY in hell you can use that line.

-Ant.

[blacknightteg]

obd1 its a 94

[Tech5]

Go to the passenger side of the dash under it is a BLUE connector(by the glove box underside)


Its a 2 pin


Jump if with a paper clip

turn the key to run but dont start the car

count the blinks


1 slow blink = 10

4 fast blinks - 4

the code will be 14

same if its different numbers

[punkr6]

^^ beat me to it...

[Tech5]

If the CEL doesnt blink you didnt jump it right ! Wingle the paper clip around until you see it to start blinking

[blacknightteg]

will it throw one code or more?

[Tech5]

will it throw one code or more?

if it goes to a second code there a is a few second pause...If it keeps blinking the same code over and over that is the only code!

[blacknightteg]

ok

[Tech5]

I have integra OEM fans bro

[dallasb84]

me too... i got fans...

[blacknightteg]

yeah. well the header that i have will melt right through it, tahst the problem. so i had to get slim line fans to get the out of th way, the housing for the OEM fans are to big.

[Vteckidd]

yeah. well the header that i have will melt right through it, tahst the problem. so i had to get slim line fans to get the out of th way, the housing for the OEM fans are to big.

U should prob do research before you purchase a product.
It's well known everywhere and I told yo several times that a rmf style header needs to have the fan shroud trimmed or you have to run slim fans. It's posted in my thread all over the place and since you bought your header from batlground I'm pretty sure it's in their ad too

I also told you that you needed a reducer made to bolt it to your factory size exhaust.

You really can't do much to fuck your car up from installing a header. Even an o2 code won't effect the car not revving past 3000

it's pretty obvious you have no idea what you are doing, you prob should bite the bullet and take it to batlground, mainstream, zen and have them fix it before you do more damage. Just my .02

[blacknightteg]

U should prob do research before you purchase a product.
It's well known everywhere and I told yo several times that a rmf style header needs to have the fan shroud trimmed or you have to run slim fans. It's posted in my thread all over the place and since you bought your header from batlground I'm pretty sure it's in their ad too

I also told you that you needed a reducer made to bolt it to your factory size exhaust.

You really can't do much to fuck your car up from installing a header. Even an o2 code won't effect the car not revving past 3000

i just realized you said this, and no when i was talking to you about it you did not mention that you had to do that so that is a false statement, you may have thought you did, but you did not. batlground did not tell me either, but im not going to put the blame on anyone but myself for not noticing it before the car was started up and driven.

it's pretty obvious you have no idea what you are doing, you prob should bite the bullet and take it to batlground, mainstream, zen and have them fix it before you do more damage. Just my .02

im glad you can read since i have stated that im new at trying to figure out problems with an engine. good job for figuring that out. how else am i going to learn without asking question. excuse me that im apparnetly not a vtec god like yourself. i appreciate you giving me your insight into the situation, and thats what im probably going to end up doing. but i dont appreciate you being an ass and saying what your saying. if i did know what i was doing, would i have honestly made this thread? no. its what the general tech forums for, asking questions on shit that someone doesn't know.

[Vteckidd]

i just realized you said this, and no when i was talking to you about it you did not mention that you had to do that so that is a false statement, you may have thought you did, but you did not. batlground did not tell me either, but im not going to put the blame on anyone but myself for not noticing it before the car was started up and driven.

Really? Exhibit A
KiddRACING B Series Header *PRICE OO LOW TO POST*IN STOCK!

KiddRACING B Series Honda/Acura HEader -KR-B

-304 Stainless Brushed Steel
-2.5 in collector
-Hand Tig Welded
-2 Year Warranty
-FITS ALL B SERIES: b16,B17,B18, GSR, ITR, LSVTEC
-FITS ALL CHASSIS: EG, EK, DC2, DA and EF
-EF and DA require modding of Front Crossmember
-CLEAR AC AND POWER STEERING
-REQUIRES SLIM FAN OR TRIMMING OF STOCK SHROUD


And on Honda-tech.com
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2434887
RMF NARROW STYLE 4-1 Replica Header now available.


-304 Stainless Brushed Steel
-2.5 in collector
-Hand Tig Welded
-1 Year Warranty against breaking/cracking backed by me
-FITS ALL B SERIES: b16,B17,B18, GSR, ITR, LSVTEC
-FITS ALL CHASSIS: EG, EK, DC2, DA and EF
-EF and DA require modding of Front Crossmember
-Slight trimming of standard OEM Size Rad fan required (1/2) notch
-CLEARS AC AND POWER STEERING


Regardless, its pretty obvious when you install the header that it blatantly touches the fan shroud. If you didnt notice it, then you shouldnt be working on the car. Its common sense.

im glad you can read since i have stated that im new at trying to figure out problems with an engine. good job for figuring that out. how else am i going to learn without asking question. excuse me that im apparnetly not a vtec god like yourself. i appreciate you giving me your insight into the situation, and thats what im probably going to end up doing. but i dont appreciate you being an ass and saying what your saying. if i did know what i was doing, would i have honestly made this thread? no. its what the general tech forums for, asking questions on shit that someone doesn't know.

You were posting stuff like "its a problem with the a/f mixture i thing" and you said the fan melting prob caused the problem MULTIPLE times in this thread.

Im not calling you retarded, im simply stating you do no have any idea what you are doing, you need to take it to a professional. If the car was able to make it i would highly suggest taking it to the place you bought the part from and let them install it and fix the mistakes you made. But since you are nowhere near them i suggested Zen which is on your side of town.

I never said you had to be a VTEC god, and im sorry if i sound condescending but this is common knowledge. If you cant put a header on without royally fucking your car up, you prob should be touching the car. Thats just tough love sir haha.

you have a history of asking for advice and all different questions, then going off and doing shit on your own , then when it fucks up you come on here asking what the hell happened. I mean over the last 5 years you must have PMed me 10 times about how much a motor swap is, how much this and that is, should you turbo, etc etc etc.

Which is TOTALLY FINE. Not everyone has as much experience like me, or the other shops in this town. I was just telling you, bite the bullet and take it to a shop. you said you were "trying to avoid taking it to a shop". I was merely telling you you need to realize you are way outside you scope of ability on this one.

Furthermore, after we suggested shops to take it to, you said you were going to take it to a shop that installed your distributor. Ignoring even further advice.

Just trying to set you straight, but hey, its your car. I think i know my product :P

[blacknightteg]

Really? Exhibit A
KiddRACING B Series Header *PRICE OO LOW TO POST*IN STOCK!

KiddRACING B Series Honda/Acura HEader -KR-B

-304 Stainless Brushed Steel
-2.5 in collector
-Hand Tig Welded
-2 Year Warranty
-FITS ALL B SERIES: b16,B17,B18, GSR, ITR, LSVTEC
-FITS ALL CHASSIS: EG, EK, DC2, DA and EF
-EF and DA require modding of Front Crossmember
-CLEAR AC AND POWER STEERING
-REQUIRES SLIM FAN OR TRIMMING OF STOCK SHROUD


And on Honda-tech.com
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2434887
RMF NARROW STYLE 4-1 Replica Header now available.


-304 Stainless Brushed Steel
-2.5 in collector
-Hand Tig Welded
-1 Year Warranty against breaking/cracking backed by me
-FITS ALL B SERIES: b16,B17,B18, GSR, ITR, LSVTEC
-FITS ALL CHASSIS: EG, EK, DC2, DA and EF
-EF and DA require modding of Front Crossmember
-Slight trimming of standard OEM Size Rad fan required (1/2) notch
-CLEARS AC AND POWER STEERING


Regardless, its pretty obvious when you install the header that it blatantly touches the fan shroud. If you didnt notice it, then you shouldnt be working on the car. Its common sense.





You were posting stuff like "its a problem with the a/f mixture i thing" and you said the fan melting prob caused the problem MULTIPLE times in this thread.

Im not calling you retarded, im simply stating you do no have any idea what you are doing, you need to take it to a professional. If the car was able to make it i would highly suggest taking it to the place you bought the part from and let them install it and fix the mistakes you made. But since you are nowhere near them i suggested Zen which is on your side of town.

I never said you had to be a VTEC god, and im sorry if i sound condescending but this is common knowledge. If you cant put a header on without royally fucking your car up, you prob should be touching the car. Thats just tough love sir haha.

you have a history of asking for advice and all different questions, then going off and doing shit on your own , then when it fucks up you come on here asking what the hell happened. I mean over the last 5 years you must have PMed me 10 times about how much a motor swap is, how much this and that is, should you turbo, etc etc etc.

Which is TOTALLY FINE. Not everyone has as much experience like me, or the other shops in this town. I was just telling you, bite the bullet and take it to a shop. you said you were "trying to avoid taking it to a shop". I was merely telling you you need to realize you are way outside you scope of ability on this one.

Furthermore, after we suggested shops to take it to, you said you were going to take it to a shop that installed your distributor. Ignoring even further advice.

Just trying to set you straight, but hey, its your car. I think i know my product :P

look man i appreciate the tought love and i dont take it and set it aside i dont. but also, i dont think, in fact im pretty sure i never asked you about a motor swap and or turbo. you yourself chimed in on threads i made so me comming to you for advice i thik the only time i may have done that, if i remember correctly and i could be wrong was for the header.

i just didnt appreciate the way you went forth telling me about stuff, was not very cordgial(sp?) of you. i come on here, specifically to ask questions. i never didnt have the intention to take it to a shop if i needed to. but i wanted to try and broaden my knowledge as much as i could. you are right, this is outside the scope of work for me. i have come to terms with that and thats fine. but i would appreciate it if you would pull your ego down a few levels when you talk to people who are less experienced then you are.

we have people come on this site to learn stuff. regardless of whether or not its outside the scope of work that they can achieve, its still nice to know and or learn about something that they are not sure of. thats what this subforum is about.

I have had a crash course in engine preformance/function the past few months and im not regretting any of it. my parents think im stupid for sinking this money into my car. making it more and more modified. they can think that, buts its a passion that i have. i get compliments on my car all the time for the things i have done to it, and it makes me damn happy every time someone says something. i appologize if i make your knowledge look as if it isnt important to have, but you just have to realize that not everyone can do or know the things you know when it comes to engines. but it doesnt hurt to try and gain the knowledge you have, even if it takes a long time.

[Elbow]

Did you wire the O2 back up when installing the header?

[Sammich]

i dont know how far you are from an autozone and if u feel like driving out there...but they check codes for free. and if u need a o2 simulator hit me up i can locate you one

[blacknightteg]

i tried to do do autozone yesterday, and they said that they couldnt do it because my car weas not a 96 and up. they nor pep boys could read an obd1

[Sammich]

i tried to do do autozone yesterday, and they said that they couldnt do it because my car weas not a 96 and up. they nor pep boys could read an obd1

thats that gayness

[blacknightteg]

threw up 8 quick blinks, which if im doing ti correctly code 8, which is the TDC postion.

[punkr6]

how did you manage to fuck this car up so bad, by changing the header ?

[blacknightteg]

i have no fucking idea man. like it fried one of the fucking fans cause it melted the fans and blew the fuse for that fan. im wondering that if in the process of blowing that fews it blew something else as far as a censor goes in the engine. BUT it doesnt make sense cause like i said after the CEL goes on, it works fine. it doesn make shit worth sense.

[Tech5]

code 8 means you need a dizzyy

[blacknightteg]

thats the thing though. i JUST replaced it. how can it go bad that quick. cause of the fan fucking up? i keep looking on honda tech and teamintegra and what comes up is that its either the TDC sensor or the Crank sensor, can that be fixed by installing a new distributor?

[Tech5]

thats the thing though. i JUST replaced it. how can it go bad that quick. cause of the fan fucking up? i keep looking on honda tech and teamintegra and what comes up is that its either the TDC sensor or the Crank sensor, can that be fixed by installing a new distributor?

if its a code 8 you need a dizzy I am guessing you bought a used one off someone.. if you bought one from autozone or what ever those are not NEW they are rebuilt and parts that show are bad at that time are replaced .... So if that is the case take it back and get another one...The fan has NOOO issues on causing the CEL to come on.. Best of luck Joshua

[blacknightteg]

going to replace the fan tonight, figured out how to do it. so much simpler then i thought. after replacing the fan im installina new cooling fan fuse that was blown, and then reset the ECU. hopefully this fixes the problem or atleast gets it driveable enough to take to a shop.

[Tech5]

they can they just dont know how

[blacknightteg]

UPDATE: Fan is installed onto radiator, Car runs fine at start up. After about 10 of 15 minutes of idling allowing the temperature to rise in engine, engine dies. car is started back up and then is in limp mode. So, Fan did not solve problem. It appears to me that it has something to do with the Air/Fuel mixture as engine gets hotter. any suggestions/idea's?

[Barefoot]

UPDATE: Fan is installed onto radiator, Car runs fine at start up. After about 10 of 15 minutes of idling allowing the temperature to rise in engine, engine dies. car is started back up and then is in limp mode. So, Fan did not solve problem. It appears to me that it has something to do with the Air/Fuel mixture as engine gets hotter. any suggestions/idea's?

what are the codes now.

[blacknightteg]

what are the codes now.

i have not been home all day, my dad installed the fan for me and checked how the car ran as soon as he installed it and those symptoms came up. i will check things like that when i get home. so till then i cant tell you. but the concern i have about that is that i wont be able to see the wrong code untill it shuts off on its own again. reason i say that is cause when i checked the code the first time it did code 8 which states TDC sensor. but i dont really know how it could be that as it has had no problem running in the past.

as far as the o2 sensor goes, i checked the o2 last night/night before last and i personally couldnt see anything wrong with the wiring as far as it being melted goes. i also personally cannot tell if anything is actually wrong with the sensor itself as i dont know what to look for.

[Tech5]

the fans WILL not cause it to run bad why would you think that!!!!!


Nor will it fix any issues other than the fan problem

[JITB]

Did u melt the o2 sensor wire? Did u clamp any wires in between the block and the header?

[Tech5]

the code 8 will only cause 1 issue ok 2

1. cel
2. will not start on the first turn over most causes the car will take atleast 2