Quote Originally Posted by EvasiveEF9
Well, I forgot to mention my source for the 300hp... 300hp was what I was TOLD the car was putting down on a dyno. I have no physical proof, nor have I seen it push it on the dyno. Once I actually get those numbers, they will be posted, but until I do something with the car, I have no plans to run to a dyno. However, IF the car is putting down 3 at the wheels...my next goal is 400.

Happy? LoL

I appreciate your input on the no2, but I'll likely look for something other than that. I just don't like the strain it puts on an engine, and I don't trust thestuff. When the intake was done, the MAF was also done. I really wish the shop I worked out was still up and running so I could really get up under the car, but I think the exhaust was done headers back.

Which brings me to a question. With headers, I see people bragging about shorty headers, and I see people bragging about long headers...what's the difference as far as the car's performance is concerned?
SHorty headers give more gain in down low rpms and long tubes give better high rpm power. If anything always go long tubes. SHortys are just a waste of money, for a $100 less, between cost and install and you make alot less power. I will be ordering my Mac LT here soon, and cant wait to get them on.

But yeah, if your goal is 400whp, cheap without nitrous, then your goal is very high. Nothing against you. Basically the only difference between your motor and mine, other than a valve, is that your block holds more power stock than mine. And for me to get 400whp, i will need heads and cams to get there. But i will just be doing a eaton conversion next year for tax time. So for right now if you want it fast for cheap, basically you need headers, intake manifold, pulleys, full cat back, alum d/s, alum flywheel, and probably some higher gears. THen of course a dyno tune!