I know that THIS probably isn't asked very often...

[StraightSix]

My recommendations:

1) Take the suspension back to stock. You're already on stock struts, put the stock springs back on.

2) Take all the money you plan on dropping into aftermarket suspension parts and spend that money on autocrosses or track days. <---- This means work on the driver mod.

3) Once you know how to drive the car with stock suspension and know what the car is/isn't doing on the track/course, then begin making suspension upgrades.

All the parts in the world are useless if the driver isn't aware of how they should be best taken advantage of.

Do NOT cage a street car. Cages are meant for cars that are being driven by a helmeted driver.

[ash7]

My recommendations:

1) Take the suspension back to stock. You're already on stock struts, put the stock springs back on.

2) Take all the money you plan on dropping into aftermarket suspension parts and spend that money on autocrosses or track days. <---- This means work on the driver mod.

3) Once you know how to drive the car with stock suspension and know what the car is/isn't doing on the track/course, then begin making suspension upgrades.

All the parts in the world are useless if the driver isn't aware of how they should be best taken advantage of.

Do NOT cage a street car. Cages are meant for cars that are being driven by a helmeted driver.

^Sage advice from one who runs NASA events on a regular basis. And worth repeating twice.

My suspension "checklist" so far includes:
1) Zeal Function coilovers
2) Progress 24mm rear adjustable swaybar
3) GTSPEC trunk cage
4) Nagisa spherical trailing arm bushings
5) Carbing front 4pt bar
6) Nagisa Auto Gacchiri fender braces

*7) do not forget about the most underestimated piece of equipement that makes the biggest difference - a clutch type limited slip differential.

-jonathan

[teh_mugen18]

^Sage advice from one who runs NASA events on a regular basis. And worth repeating twice.

My suspension "checklist" so far includes:
1) Zeal Function coilovers
2) Progress 24mm rear adjustable swaybar
3) GTSPEC trunk cage
4) Nagisa spherical trailing arm bushings
5) Carbing front 4pt bar
6) Nagisa Auto Gacchiri fender braces

*7) do not forget about the most underestimated piece of equipement that makes the biggest difference - a clutch type limited slip differential.

-jonathan

what do fender braces do? I've already tried looking around on google, and it only points me to what a fender brace IS, not what it does.

Also....trunk cage? I posted something up about a trunk brace a couple days ago, and i was told it was prettymuch worthless

[ash7]

what do fender braces do? I've already tried looking around on google, and it only points me to what a fender brace IS, not what it does.

Also....trunk cage? I posted something up about a trunk brace a couple days ago, and i was told it was prettymuch worthless

Any type of chassis reinforcement aids in countering the effects of chassis flex which tends to make the car feel "sloppy." No single piece will "solve" this effect on its own and they're all more or less "worthless" by themselves. However, there are a few points in a FWD chassis that can make more of a difference than others when they're connected or reinforced to one another.

The front chassis supports to the firewall (fender brace) - front lower control arm mounts to the rear subframe (H brace) - C-pillar bar to the rear subframe (trunk brace) - strut towers to the firewall (3pt tower brace).

In my experience and research, I've noticed a trend where these areas of the car have the greatest amount of chassis separation difference while in a corner. A roll cage combats this to the greatest extent, and brings the car together as one solid piece. Bolt in cages do not have this effect though. And are there more or less as a bandaid to pass tech inspections before an event.

-jonathan

[Humphrizzle]

My recommendations:

1) Take the suspension back to stock. You're already on stock struts, put the stock springs back on.

2) Take all the money you plan on dropping into aftermarket suspension parts and spend that money on autocrosses or track days. <---- This means work on the driver mod.

3) Once you know how to drive the car with stock suspension and know what the car is/isn't doing on the track/course, then begin making suspension upgrades.

All the parts in the world are useless if the driver isn't aware of how they should be best taken advantage of.

Do NOT cage a street car. Cages are meant for cars that are being driven by a helmeted driver.

i agree whole-heartedly