my LS, which parts stay stock for boost??
I was going to go all-out FORGED bottom end, including pistons, rods, etc. but im starting to wonder, what if i were to just get forged rods and leave my piston/rings oem?
Can someone give me a rough estimate of how much boost would be safe/reliable if i have a fully built head/valvetrain, kept my stock pistons but used only forged rods? and another estimate of how much i could run if i went all forged?
ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
•R.I.P. LsVtec DB1....hello b20v EF...!•
Originally Posted by cactusEG
y go cheap at this point.
If I were you I'd just go head and get everything aftermarket. That way you wont have any problems or have to rip the motor apart for more parts taht you didn't do from the start. just mygl
VTECH ... Making phones since 1994.
Looking for Integra Sedan (DB7/8) parts <--clickable
Q:Nitrous on stock LS high mileage. Too risky?
A:IMO nos is like steroids and giving steroids to a grandma doesnt sound all that good to me!
Couple things
1) OEM Pistons are PRESS FIT not snap fit. So youll be hard pressed to get the pistons to go with an eagle rod. Plus, i would NEVER re-use an OEM piston, and 90% of the time when you press them off the pistons will break.
2) THe weak link in honda motors is the pistons, not the rods. Stock rods can do 400-500 whp. Stock pistons break at 250-300whp. SO theres no point swapping rods an not the pistons.
3) Do it right the first time.
4) If you do Rods and Pistons you should do bearings, timing belt, oil pump water pump, headgasket, headstuds, gasket kit. if you cant afford to do that, dont build motor.
Hope that helps
Enterprise Data Resources- Ecommerce Project Manager
-www.usedbarcode.net
don't to head/valve package and try and cheap out on the bottom end. ls heads don't flow the best anyway. go forged bottom end keep head stock and when you're ready to build a head do a lsvtec.
MAINSTREAM PERFORMANCE & DIGITAL BOX TUNING
ECU CHIPPING/SOCKETING/TUNING-HONDATA, CROME, BRE, TURBOEDIT
HONDATA DEALER/TUNER
NISSAN REALTIME-NISTUNE
MITSUBISHI AND SUBARU TUNING AVAILABLE!
id stay stock for now. wait till things blow up, then go ahead and redo with sleeves,pistons/rods and work on the head if you want.
that is the worst advice i have ever heard. Listen to mr.kidd and scotty, that is sound advice.
lol thats wut i did
thats what i wish i did was stack stock nd blow it up first.
first off its this reason there are not many motors in good condition nowadayz ... ok lets blow this one up to find out wut it can or cannot do when u can learn from other PEOPLES MISTAKE and not do the same .... go ahead you blow your motor but dont be posting asking for another one for 100 $ .... GTFO ! sorry to thread jack and listen to MR KIDD .... his advice counts since he works at a place that does this crap all the time .
93 sol Si
95 sol S
95 sol Si
good plan, dumbass.
fixed got to give correct infosorry to thread jack and listen to MR KIDD .... his advice counts since he worked at a place that does this crap all the time .
im still working on cars
Enterprise Data Resources- Ecommerce Project Manager
-www.usedbarcode.net
good plan, dumbass.
or your could just replace all of your perfectly working parts with newer parts. its like buying new tires to replace tires that have tread left. just wear out the old ones, then rebuild.
you're not seriously comparing the complex internal components of a motor to tires, are you?
nope, im comparing your logic of replacing perfect working parts for new parts.
because they are perfectly good working parts for the set-up the motor has now... Not a boosted set-up. If you are going to do it, then why would you want to boost it, blow it up, then rebuild? It will blow up when you don't have the money or you really need the car. Do it all at once, so you know it will be reliable and you won't be having to worry about fixing things that could break while you are on your way somewhere, and could leave you stranded...
Back to being stock and slow
Thanks alot y'all....
ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
•R.I.P. LsVtec DB1....hello b20v EF...!•
3) I will do it right. But i dont want to spend more money than whats really neccesary either. Sorta like getting TEIN suspension parts for +$1,000 when i could possibly get Skunk2 which is equally good for a crapload less money...
4) Out of all those parts, should i stick to oem, or should i go aftermarket there too?? And, is that ALL that i'll need, or is there more to that list? I'm trying to get a list of parts that will encompass everything so i'll just be able to go out and basically order it all over a long period of time then save the $$ to pay for the labor.
ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
•R.I.P. LsVtec DB1....hello b20v EF...!•
Thats fine, but there is a BIG DIFFERENCE between saving money and cheaping out.
Saving money is fine, just spend it in the right place.
Any Built motor needs
Eagle Rods
Aftermarket Pistons (CP, Wiseco, JE)
ACL Bearings
OEM Lower Gasket Kit
OEM Headgasket
OEM Oil Pump, Timing Belt, Water Pump, Timing Belt Tensioner, Upper Gasket Kit
Machine Work- Balance, Bore, Hone, Deck, surface and Clean
ARP headstuds
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Should be around $2000-3000
Enterprise Data Resources- Ecommerce Project Manager
-www.usedbarcode.net
lol, now i have to re-type my list of parts
ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
•R.I.P. LsVtec DB1....hello b20v EF...!•
ACL bearings:
Which bearings in the motor, all of them??
ATLANTA DA-Squad member #26...[{Home.BASE.Racing}]
•R.I.P. LsVtec DB1....hello b20v EF...!•
Sleeve dat sh*t and block guard it
1. It gets really old when people keep calling southside a thief, b/c honestly, they have no phucking idea! lol
Rod bearings,Main bearings,Thrust washers,Piston rings if you get em from a machine shop get Hastings,Fu*k Top Line
1. It gets really old when people keep calling southside a thief, b/c honestly, they have no phucking idea! lol
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
