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Thread: B-Series swap help

  1. #1
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    Default B-Series swap help

    well im just about getting ready to take out my b18 out of my DC2....so far its extremely simple compared to my old sr 240

    ive taken out the wiring harness completely, unbolted the exhaust , took out the coolant hoses and all these other vacuum lines , pretty much everything connected to the engine is now disconnected...ive also unbolted the driver and passenger mount and now im SORT of stuck.


    there are these 2 extra mount type things by the passenger and driver mounts, what do they do?


    oh and how do i take out the shift linkage? ive unbolted one and the other one is like a pushy pully thingy...

    and i need to push the car around and the transmission is in gear...****.

    oh and where should i hoist the engine from?


    any help is appreciated and will yield reps

  2. #2

    Default

    1) Mounts are TORQUE mounts, inbolt them from the motor and unbolt them from the chassis.

    2) Welcome to what we in the industry call the "***** pin". You need a 8mm punch and a happer. you hammer the pin out from the bottom, you MUST MAKE SURE WHATEVER YOU USE TO HIT THE PIN OUT DOESNT GO INSIDE OF IT. the pin will expand and almost become impossible to get out.

    Make sure whatever you use it doesnt go inside the pin.

    good luck


    Custom Tuning By Daniel Willie.
    Parts, Fabrication, Race Car Prep
    770-319-9605 or [email protected]

  3. #3
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    Default

    so i just hammer it out?

  4. #4

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    yup


    Custom Tuning By Daniel Willie.
    Parts, Fabrication, Race Car Prep
    770-319-9605 or [email protected]

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    Default

    and where can i hoist it from?

  6. #6
    Accord->Evo EmminoDaGreat's Avatar
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    Yup hammer it out, to make it easy leave the tranny side upper mount on and the driver upper on when you hook the chain up, as they are the easier ones to remove.

    The EMPIRE

  7. #7
    IA's official battery rep gtikid's Avatar
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    When I tried to remove the bitch pin, I found it easier to use a flat head screwer and bang it out. Use a flathead that is small enough to clear where the bitch pin goes in to, but not small enough to actually go inside of the bitch pin itself. It really is a bitch to get that pin out.

    Oh and just pull on the shift linkage to get the car out of gear to push it out

    FUCK GRAN TURISMO EAST!! NEVER TAKE YOUR CAR THERE, ESPECIALLY NOT FOR AN ALIGNMENT!! TERRIBLE BUSINESS!!

  8. #8
    Senior Member EJdm's Avatar
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    hoist to where ever is strong enough...thats what i do...

  9. #9
    Mountain man green91's Avatar
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    i hoist it from the alternator bolt and there is usually a hanger on the trans i use

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    alright well wiring harness is out and all other hoses connected to the engine. all i have to do now is take out the axles and the ***** pin and i should be good to hoist it out?

  11. #11
    Certified Gearhead EK Hotch's Avatar
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    Throttle cable and clutch slave cylinder line, other than that, it sounds ready to come out...ground wires?
    Swamp

  12. #12
    Barefoot Motorsports
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    this is what i got perfect every time. takes less than a sec to get it out.

    mst6565
    http://matcotools.com/ProductImages/MST6565.jpg


  13. #13
    XLR8SHEN FOE LizzziFeE iNsTuN nOoDoH's Avatar
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    Use the ac compressor bolt. By far the easiest way out when you don't have a punch.

  14. #14
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    can anyone tell me why it just took me 3 hours to take out an axle...and fail at trying to get the ***** pin out

    how the hell do you take out the bolt that go through the ball joint in the upper control arm? (i instead just unbolted the entire assembly from the bay)

  15. #15
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    and this doesnt pertain to anything but what is the little sensor that chills by the axle ridges? what does it do?

  16. #16
    Mountain man green91's Avatar
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    to remove the ball joint from the LCA or even tie rod ends buy one of these:
    http://oem-tools.com/product_info.ph...i1m0trob4itur2
    they are about $15 at autozone.

    the ridges on your axles are the exciter rings for your ABS sensors. those rides are used by the ABS sensor to detect wheel speed.

  17. #17
    It's all about JDM.
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    Default

    What ever you do, do not use a hammer to hit the joints out, it WILL, let me repeat, it WILL mess up your ball joint threads. Use a ball joint puller, it will save you time and money.

    The tool looks like this:



    Put the tool on like this, (this photo has a different tool,but the tool above works the same way): And when removing the cotter pin, you remove by pulling on the looped end outwards!!!



    Then remove your axles with a pry bar, or big flat head screw driver...as illustrated:



    Hope this help clear up some questions...
    I won't advertise because I'm not paying to

  18. #18
    XLR8SHEN FOE LizzziFeE iNsTuN nOoDoH's Avatar
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    I knock out ball joints 24.7 with a hammer haha. no damage yet. If you don't want to damage the threads leave the castle nut on, but not tight.

  19. #19
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    alright well im just about ready to hoist out the engine but i dont know where to put the chain...

    i have already put a bolt through one of the links on the back of the head...where do i put the other one?

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