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Thread: first timer... swapping engines advice would be nice

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  1. #1
    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Atlanta Centennial Park
    Age
    44
    Posts
    33,102
    Rep Power
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    Default

    You need:

    SOCKETS:
    10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
    12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt
    19mm- Rear bracket bolts, lug nuts
    32mm- axles

    WRENCHES:
    10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
    12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt

    PLIERS:
    Angled nose PLiers (hose clamps)
    Straight nose pliers (hose clamps)

    Flat head Screwdriver
    Phillips Screwdriver
    8mm punch for ***** Pin if you have a shift linkage
    Hammer

    Breaker Bar
    2 Ton Jack
    Jackstands
    Engine Hoist ($100 at pepboys)

    those are pretty much the tolls you have to have to do an engine swap.

    Its pretty straight forward. Disconnect Battery. YOu want to start by draining all fluids from the motor, radiator, transmission. Then disconnect the wiring harness, im unsure on the preludes in that year, but there should be 2 main harness disconnects, one at each shocktower like on an EG.

    Youll want to leave the harness on the motor.

    After the wiring is disconnected, start unhooking all hoses that attatch from the motor to antyhing outside of the engine, like firewall heater hoses, radiator hoses(pull the radiator, gives yourself more room).

    Disconnect Power Steering and AC if applicable. Usually you can unbolt the compressor with the lines attatched , just undo the 4 14mm bolts from the compressor bracket. Same with the PS.

    After all thats done, disconnect the shifter cables or linkage. Remove axles, unbolt header from cat.

    Once all thats done, survey the engine, and make sure there is nothing that connects from the engine to the engine bay. Double check, remember your pulling the engine so any lines you missed the first time, double check now to make sure nothing else is in the way.

    Once all thats done, hook hoist up to the motor. I use the 14mm on the back of the head and the 17mm front TQ mount as places to put the chain.

    Jack the hoist up to put a SMALL amount of tension on the chain. Start undoing the engine mount bolts. Use your best judgement. I usually do the rear mount first, then the tranny mount from the trans, then the bolt to the tranny mount, then i undo the driver side mount.

    once thats done, have a friend help you angle the motor an pull it out , sometimes its best to remove the hood if its your first time to give yourself plenty of room.

    Once the motor is out, youll have to swap everything over to the new engine including trans, clutch, flywheel, wiring harness, starter, etc.
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  2. #2
    ek hatch
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Macon
    Age
    36
    Posts
    372
    Rep Power
    21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. KiDD
    You need:

    SOCKETS:
    10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
    12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt
    19mm- Rear bracket bolts, lug nuts
    32mm- axles

    WRENCHES:
    10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
    12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt

    PLIERS:
    Angled nose PLiers (hose clamps)
    Straight nose pliers (hose clamps)

    Flat head Screwdriver
    Phillips Screwdriver
    8mm punch for ***** Pin if you have a shift linkage
    Hammer

    Breaker Bar
    2 Ton Jack
    Jackstands
    Engine Hoist ($100 at pepboys)

    those are pretty much the tolls you have to have to do an engine swap.

    Its pretty straight forward. Disconnect Battery. YOu want to start by draining all fluids from the motor, radiator, transmission. Then disconnect the wiring harness, im unsure on the preludes in that year, but there should be 2 main harness disconnects, one at each shocktower like on an EG.

    Youll want to leave the harness on the motor.

    After the wiring is disconnected, start unhooking all hoses that attatch from the motor to antyhing outside of the engine, like firewall heater hoses, radiator hoses(pull the radiator, gives yourself more room).

    Disconnect Power Steering and AC if applicable. Usually you can unbolt the compressor with the lines attatched , just undo the 4 14mm bolts from the compressor bracket. Same with the PS.

    After all thats done, disconnect the shifter cables or linkage. Remove axles, unbolt header from cat.

    Once all thats done, survey the engine, and make sure there is nothing that connects from the engine to the engine bay. Double check, remember your pulling the engine so any lines you missed the first time, double check now to make sure nothing else is in the way.

    Once all thats done, hook hoist up to the motor. I use the 14mm on the back of the head and the 17mm front TQ mount as places to put the chain.

    Jack the hoist up to put a SMALL amount of tension on the chain. Start undoing the engine mount bolts. Use your best judgement. I usually do the rear mount first, then the tranny mount from the trans, then the bolt to the tranny mount, then i undo the driver side mount.

    once thats done, have a friend help you angle the motor an pull it out , sometimes its best to remove the hood if its your first time to give yourself plenty of room.

    Once the motor is out, youll have to swap everything over to the new engine including trans, clutch, flywheel, wiring harness, starter, etc.

    haha yea thats what i was sayin, thats perfect info
    97ek hatch

  3. #3
    Sol_boosted k20siboii's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    594
    Rep Power
    19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. KiDD
    You need:

    SOCKETS:
    10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
    12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt
    19mm- Rear bracket bolts, lug nuts
    32mm- axles

    WRENCHES:
    10mm-misc engine ,bracket bolts, radiator mounts
    12mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    14mm- misc engine ,bracket bolts
    17mm- motor mount bolts, Lower ball joint castle nut, lower strut bolt

    PLIERS:
    Angled nose PLiers (hose clamps)
    Straight nose pliers (hose clamps)

    Flat head Screwdriver
    Phillips Screwdriver
    8mm punch for ***** Pin if you have a shift linkage
    Hammer

    Breaker Bar
    2 Ton Jack
    Jackstands
    Engine Hoist ($100 at pepboys)

    those are pretty much the tolls you have to have to do an engine swap.

    Its pretty straight forward. Disconnect Battery. YOu want to start by draining all fluids from the motor, radiator, transmission. Then disconnect the wiring harness, im unsure on the preludes in that year, but there should be 2 main harness disconnects, one at each shocktower like on an EG.

    Youll want to leave the harness on the motor.

    After the wiring is disconnected, start unhooking all hoses that attatch from the motor to antyhing outside of the engine, like firewall heater hoses, radiator hoses(pull the radiator, gives yourself more room).

    Disconnect Power Steering and AC if applicable. Usually you can unbolt the compressor with the lines attatched , just undo the 4 14mm bolts from the compressor bracket. Same with the PS.

    After all thats done, disconnect the shifter cables or linkage. Remove axles, unbolt header from cat.

    Once all thats done, survey the engine, and make sure there is nothing that connects from the engine to the engine bay. Double check, remember your pulling the engine so any lines you missed the first time, double check now to make sure nothing else is in the way.

    Once all thats done, hook hoist up to the motor. I use the 14mm on the back of the head and the 17mm front TQ mount as places to put the chain.

    Jack the hoist up to put a SMALL amount of tension on the chain. Start undoing the engine mount bolts. Use your best judgement. I usually do the rear mount first, then the tranny mount from the trans, then the bolt to the tranny mount, then i undo the driver side mount.

    once thats done, have a friend help you angle the motor an pull it out , sometimes its best to remove the hood if its your first time to give yourself plenty of room.

    Once the motor is out, youll have to swap everything over to the new engine including trans, clutch, flywheel, wiring harness, starter, etc.
    thanks alot this is gonna help me do my gsr swap this weekend ..much appreciation


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