Im new to this rotary thing...i have a 87 turbo 2....my question is.. What exactly makes the engine flood? Im really tired of having to disconnect the relay to the fuel pump and pluf it back in before it will start.....so please someone help me.
rotary people help me.
Im new to this rotary thing...i have a 87 turbo 2....my question is.. What exactly makes the engine flood? Im really tired of having to disconnect the relay to the fuel pump and pluf it back in before it will start.....so please someone help me.
Epic Foxbody Thread Crew Member #07
Fuck Bitches, Kill tyrannosauruses
If it was sitting for along time,your injectors could be sticking open..Also check the ecu ,sometime they go bad...It just happen to a friend of mine...PS any check engine?????Originally Posted by scabtastic
92 mx3
Are you starting it and turning it off in short times, as in not allowing it to get up to operating temperature?
Is your battery new or still working like new?
Spark plugs?
Its usually a one of a couple things... like the above mentioned.
You might look into wiring a fuel pump cutoff switch, something that a lot of guys do just as a precaution anyway.
Austin
FC - Death by rotary forever
CRX daily... Gas prices suck, i love my HF
well i drive 20 miles to work so it gets to operating temp. but once im done driving i let it idle for a couple of minutes.
im about to do spark plugs
and the battery is a year old so im going to trade it in.
there was a cut off switch but it was ghetto rigged.
Epic Foxbody Thread Crew Member #07
Fuck Bitches, Kill tyrannosauruses
Also check your compression. It plays a big role when the motor starts to flood.
2013 Corsa Blue Optima SX 2.0T
Yeah get that battery outta there, and look into putting in a new cut off switch.
Also like Trini said, the compression plays a big role. How many miles are on it? Always good to get it tested just in case.
Austin
FC - Death by rotary forever
CRX daily... Gas prices suck, i love my HF
115k
Epic Foxbody Thread Crew Member #07
Fuck Bitches, Kill tyrannosauruses
Yeah i'd get a compression test just to make sure that isn't (or is, but hopefully not) the problem.
Austin
FC - Death by rotary forever
CRX daily... Gas prices suck, i love my HF
The first thing that might cause flooding in your 13b might be leaking injectors, after you shut your car off (does not matter what if warmed up or not) and let it sit for a while and come back and is flodded it might be leaking injectors, because of age they dont seal properly and leak, into the combustion chamber, compression almost never plays a role on flooding in a rotary engine is just worn out fuel components, also check your battery connection for any rust or anything that would caus a bad connection, because the longer you crank your car to get it started the more likely it will flood, a cheap way to avoid flooding if your injectors are not leakin it is to revv your car to about 3 to 4 thousand rpms and shut it off, this will get rid of any left over fule in your combustion chambers and it is better than going through the trouble of installing a cut off switch.
hope this helps..
and have patiense with the 7 they need much luv... :idb:
Quote:
Boy, your better off doing drugs because there isn't any rehab or therapy for rotaries or boost.
Well, from what is said around the Rotary community, the turbo motors like to last to roughly 100k. How true it is, I do not know. It is mainly based on how the car was cared for is what I usually go by. I would say do a compression check definitely so at least you have a base to start from. Good luck.
2013 Corsa Blue Optima SX 2.0T
Its generally more like 130k and sometimes more for Turbo II's if they've been treated decent.
FD's generally struggle to make it to 100k
But it just depends.
Any updates on the situation?
FC - Death by rotary forever
CRX daily... Gas prices suck, i love my HF
eh it still does it every now and then....im doing plugs as soon as i get my paycheck in...
Epic Foxbody Thread Crew Member #07
Fuck Bitches, Kill tyrannosauruses
The first thing that might cause flooding in your 13b might be leaking injectors, after you shut your car off (does not matter what if warmed up or not) and let it sit for a while and come back and is flodded it might be leaking injectors, because of age they dont seal properly and leak, into the combustion chamber, compression almost never plays a role on flooding in a rotary engine is just worn out fuel components, also check your battery connection for any rust or anything that would caus a bad connection, because the longer you crank your car to get it started the more likely it will flood, a cheap way to avoid flooding if your injectors are not leakin it is to revv your car to about 3 to 4 thousand rpms and shut it off, this will get rid of any left over fule in your combustion chambers and it is better than going through the trouble of installing a cut off switch.
hope this helps..
and have patiense with the 7 they need much luv... :idb:
wouldnt that leave the turbo spinning dry?
Epic Foxbody Thread Crew Member #07
Fuck Bitches, Kill tyrannosauruses
Yea i thought yours was a non turbo, but if you leave your car running and let the turbo cool down you should be fine by reving it and turning of the car, because the turbo still has oil flowing through it so it should not get damaged,
but check out rx7club.com they have a lot of usefull info on rx7's .
Quote:
Boy, your better off doing drugs because there isn't any rehab or therapy for rotaries or boost.
yeah i actually have that pulled up next to IA lol
Epic Foxbody Thread Crew Member #07
Fuck Bitches, Kill tyrannosauruses
the compression dosent change it flooding it just makes it not want to start correctly
the rev works but if you leave the gas cap slightly cracked you can still turbo time
i know of atleast 5 motors with well over 150k its just idionts that dont do supporting mods that blowthem
Ok, first of all, compression does have effect on how well any internal combustion engine starts. I have seen this first hand a good few times. Another bad thing about low compression (damaged) motors is that they smoke, and that oil that's burning in the combustion area is coating your spark plugs and fouling them out.
Second, the rev thing is ok, but you will be more proper with actually using a cut-off switch to kill your motor, and then turn the motor over a few seconds while starting again, and then activate the fuel pump (by turning the switch back on). This is the same thing that has been programmed into RX-8 ecu's by not firing the injectors for a second delay while trying to start cold. You in essence will kill the motor dry, and get it spinning dry using your cut-off switch.
Third, do that compression test to see where you are at. I have a friend with a factory MAZDA compression tester that can do it for you.
Fourth, get those new spark plugs.
Fifth, check your battery performance, and then replace it if necessary. Has it sat more than a few weeks before? Have you run it dead a few times? That stuff is not good on batteries and even worse on cheap economy batteries. Rotary cars benefit from having a good quality battery ie. interstate, exide, energizer, optima.
Let me know if you have anymore questions.
Michael [email protected]
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