100%Originally Posted by theprofiteer
Just be sure to put the shims on the pads. I forgot to do it when I initially converted the brakes and it definitely showed that the pads were only touching the disc slightly. Once I installed the shims, the pads were making contact with the disc perfectly.
I have noticed a substanial (sp?) increase in braking. My stopping distance has decreased dramtically.
92 EH2 - Current "We will build him, better, stronger, faster."
98 EJ8 - Stolen (Thieves)
And it'll improve some more when you try changing out the proportioning valve... you'll be impressed with the difference that is made when your rear brakes are actually fully engaged.
I've performed this conversion on many civics, the first one was without the proper valve; and i changed it out on a bet with my friend one day...
...i lost the bet
we did a before and after test by slamming on the brakes @ 40mph and drawing a chalk line at the front tire. The proportioning valve decreased the distance by 8.5ft @ 40mph.
But suit yourself
-jonathan
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Jesus Christ is my Savior
cool, do I just need to change the proportioning valve, or the master cylinder too? If its just the P-valve, and I have a 96 ex, I have to use one from an si right?
all you would need to do is change out the valve. If your EX came with rear drums, then you need to change it out with one off of a DC, EGsi, EJsi, or DA.
your original master cylinder will perform just fine.
...when do do this, bleed the living daylights out of the brakes after you're done.
-jonathan
Jesus Christ is my Savior
but just to be 100% sure I need the P-valve from an Si right?
or any DC or DA
Jesus Christ is my Savior
DC P-valve is incompatible! Ill post some pictures, but its like the DC has four brake lines running through it while the EK has 6
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