hey i was thinking about getting a set of jun cams and cam gears and putting them on my stock h22.... would i notice a horse power increace right off? or is it a waste of money to buy cams and cam gears w/o touching the rest of the motor?
hey i was thinking about getting a set of jun cams and cam gears and putting them on my stock h22.... would i notice a horse power increace right off? or is it a waste of money to buy cams and cam gears w/o touching the rest of the motor?
NO NWS
You have to get your car tuned once you drop the cams and cam gears in. What kind of fuel management you plan to run?
D300s + MB-D10 |D90 + MB-D80 | 35mm f1.8G | 50mm f1.4D | 85mm f1.4D | 18-200mm VRII | 80-200mm f2.8D 2 rings| Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro | Tokina 11-16 f2.8 | Kenko 2x TC | SU-800 | 2 x SB-R200 | SB-600 | SB-900 | Cybersync
i am still debating on it bc the lude is an auto so i am limited on what i can do ithe only the thing i figured could work is the aem fuel management system.... or do a 5 speed swap and get hondata.... or does hondata work on auto trannys?
NO NWS
wouldn't be a waste of money at all. but it'd end up being better to save the money and get new parts for a nice rebuild. pull the motor, rebuild it, tune it, reinstall it, and then no problems. it'd end up working better if you did everything at once. rather then tuning now, adding parts, tunung later again, and so on and so on.
it is a new motor with 50,000 miles on it i dont want to break it completely open yet the reliablity factor is still there
NO NWS
AEM EMS is so overkill for your car, especially bolt-ons only, and not serious power making. It is best for high horsepower, and FI applications. I don't know if you can run chipped P28 or not. If not, you could always get a cheap used VAFC, or Emanage. They are good enough for you. Another thing, you don't need to get new fuel rail, stock one is good enough. Fuel pressure regulator is nice but not required, optional. Fuel pump is also good enough. I think stock injectors are fine also.
D300s + MB-D10 |D90 + MB-D80 | 35mm f1.8G | 50mm f1.4D | 85mm f1.4D | 18-200mm VRII | 80-200mm f2.8D 2 rings| Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro | Tokina 11-16 f2.8 | Kenko 2x TC | SU-800 | 2 x SB-R200 | SB-600 | SB-900 | Cybersync
yeah somone told me that aem was the only route to take with an auto.... i like my auto b/c i can keep both hands on the wheel and focus on the road w/o worring about shifting.... i put the new motor in and now i want more power hey i guess it happens to everybody.... and i don't want to go to the extreme breaking down of the motor.... right now i am looking toward those cams and a euro r intake manifold i figured that would settle my needs for a while
NO NWS
You don't need AEM EMS! Why spend over 1k for FMU that you don't even need? Find out if chipped P28 with Crome or Uberdate will work or not first. If not, then simple FMU like VAFC or Emange. VAFC and Emange will work with auto and much much cheaper than AEM. AEM EMS is not the only route for you.
D300s + MB-D10 |D90 + MB-D80 | 35mm f1.8G | 50mm f1.4D | 85mm f1.4D | 18-200mm VRII | 80-200mm f2.8D 2 rings| Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro | Tokina 11-16 f2.8 | Kenko 2x TC | SU-800 | 2 x SB-R200 | SB-600 | SB-900 | Cybersync
only options for auto are aem or a piggyback.
chipped p28 w/ hondata, crome, etc only work on 5 speed.
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