Regular Detail start to finish, no buffer and unbiased to any specific brand product:Originally Posted by keevo54
1) In a shaded area lightly spray the entire car down to soften up the surface debri, mildly mix a degreaser [simplegreen, etc.] with warm water in a sprayer (preferably one in each hand) and spray the entire car down. Rinse the car from top to bottom with low pressure as needed...never ever use high pressure. If you are not polishing and waxing the car SKIP THIS STEP, this will remove all of that.
**2) This step is optional but highly suggested: if you have rubber molding around windows or trim on the car, go ahead and wipe down using plastic/rubber trim spray ("armoral"). Spray it onto a foam applicator and wipe all exterior rubber or black plastic trim. Doing this before you wash/detail means you don't have to worry about it getting on the paint or glass making the final wipe down of the trim much easier PLUS it prevents wax and polish from sticking to the trim & rubber.
3) Using two wash buckets: fill one bucket 3/4 full of warm water, pour in soup, then top off using high pressure to create suds (you put the soup in first and you'll have 3/4 suds and 1/4 bucket of water) Fill the 2nd bucket with warm water used solely to rinse the washing cloth. Always wash from BOTTOM to TOP using fresh microfiber clothes (no need for expensive wash mitts or sponges that you don't ever want to reuse anyways) Microfibers normally come in a package of 3 differant colors, once I wash with one I retire it to use for washing the door jams, under hood painted surfaces, or wheels. The 3rd color is strictly for final detailing only. Rinse from TOP to BOTTOM without a nozzle, no sprayer or anything, simply let the water flow out the hose like a waterfall and off the sides of the car.
4) Now you're ready for the clay bar, always spray a quick detailer or clay lube on first...working with one panel at a time. Follow the directions included with the clay. No need to clean or wash afterwards because of the following steps.
5) Next step is cleaner wax, apply with a fresh cotton applicator 1/2 a panel at a time buffing off with a fresh microfiber.
6) Polish is next, using a fresh cotton applicator do one (1) panel at a time (the cleaner wax above dries out too quickly to do a complete panel at a time) Buff, wipe, and remove polish with a fresh microfiber. NOTE: Feel free to apply polish to all the windows as well, applying & wiping just as if it were the paint (normally no need in using a cleaner wax but it can be done first as well)
7) Next step is carnauba wax, again applied with a fresh cotton applicator and buffed and removed with a fresh microfiber. NOTE: Again, this can be applied to all the windows as well.
8) Now back to the rubber molding, using a rubber/trim spray and foam applicator (or recycled but clean microfiber) wipe down all the trim and rubber again, taking care not to get it on painted surfaces.
9) It doesn't matter how good you are there will still always be excess wax, swirls, etc. after the carnuaba wax (noticeable in direct sunlight) Using a quick detailer spray and fresh microfiber, lightly spray over the car wiping it down with long strokes to smooth it all out. Pay close attention to the edges, corners, around emblems, etc. to remove any buildup from the previous 3 steps. Q-tips work well where the corner of a microfiber won't reach.
Most wheels are painted these days so other than machined aluminum, chrome, or flat black all the above steps for painted surfaces can be used on them as well. A 3 or 4 step polish and wax on wheels will make them shine and help prevent brake dust from sticking. Same as the car, wipe the tires with the rubber/trim spray before waxing and polishing the wheels then again afterwards.
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