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Thread: KA-T Rebuild Questions

  1. #1
    Mullet = JDM BuBBa DRiFT's Avatar
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    Default KA-T Rebuild Questions

    Ok, I have a KA24DE with 160k on it. Came from an automatic, so Im taking a guess that it was pretty much ran normal. I have a KA-T set up using a t25 at internally wastegated 8 pounds.

    Ive seen people push a lot more boost and work they're motor a lot more out of stock internals, but for a small amount of money, why not make it more reliable.

    I have a minor rebuild in mind, basically renewing some stuff so it will take to the boost a little bit more.

    I plan on seals, gaskets, o rings, and a cometic head gasket for a minor rebuild. Do you think thats enough for a KA with that mileage to not worry about it?

    If you guys can give me a heads up on prices if I do it myself, and suggestions it would be great.


    And another question, ive heard the term "Shaft play" does that pertain to the long metal rod that connects the two turbo housings? Mine wiggles a little bit, I got it from Sae at Finish Line Motorsports by the way.

    Lets try not to make this a FLM flame fest either!


    Thanks in advance!





  2. #2
    Classic Celica
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    if your going to take the time to pull the motor apart, why not replace the bearings, have the cylinders honed, and get some lower compression forged pistons in the process? it would sure as hell save you a ton of time down the road when you wanted to up the boost/replace the turbo with a larger one.

    mileage really isnt that big of a factor. its how well the motor was taken care of. ive seen motors with over 200k on them run 7lbs of boost reliably with no problems, but they were maintained before being boosted.

    prices vary from place to place. youll have to check those out yourself and obviously, it will be cheaper if you do the work and install yourself.

    shaftplay is the play in the center cartridge in the turbo between the bearings. any more than a fraction of an inch and you need a rebuild, or a new turbo.

    hope that helps some.
    '84 Toyota Celica GT :boobies:

  3. #3
    BLAH BLAH BLAH!!!!!! Georgia_boy's Avatar
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    Remember one thing, don't cut corners on the tuning.
    Get it done right the first time.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Krazykouki's Avatar
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    Put new pistons and rings in it. Have the Cylinders honed and get new main and rod bearings.

    www.tophatperformance.com
    No Homo.


  5. #5
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    you've all missed the one thing, or rather group of things he really needs to replace. im not gonna tell you what it is cause thats how i ride yo.
    "...I'm a thief, I'm a liar, There's my church, I sing in the choir..."

  6. #6
    WANTS TO GO FAST! 2.0civic's Avatar
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    i know i know i know lololol
    FUCK B&D COMMUNICATIONS!


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    Gotta replace those muffler bearings when building a ka.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by driftjunkE
    Gotta replace those muffler bearings when building a ka.
    winna!
    "...I'm a thief, I'm a liar, There's my church, I sing in the choir..."

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by driftjunkE
    Gotta replace those muffler bearings when building a ka.
    ^agreed.
    '84 Toyota Celica GT :boobies:

  10. #10
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    Piston return springs, http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=27

    A must have too.

  11. #11
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    wooow deja vu... my other post:

    Shaft play is pertaining to the turbine shaft. Look at the turbo (through the intake side-it's cleaner), grab the nut holding the turbine on and push and pull the shaft. Use some force. If you can feel any in-and-out movement the turbo is no good. Now, some up-and-down play is acceptable in the stock SR turbo, I'm presuming that's what you have.

    The failure that happens with the KA is nothing usually in the top end, so valve guides, seals, seats, and head gasket may not play a part in helping the engine last longer. KAs have problems with bottom end oiling, even stock it's hard to find a reliable KA with 200K+ miles. This is why a full rebuild is what's really needed for a reliable KA-T. The risk of failure dramatically increases when boost is raised past 6-7psi.

    Usually when it's all said and done it's less money and less hastle just to bolt in an SR, wich is why it's such a popular option.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoJo_JoJo
    The failure that happens with the KA is nothing usually in the top end, so valve guides, seals, seats, and head gasket may not play a part in helping the engine last longer. KAs have problems with bottom end oiling, even stock it's hard to find a reliable KA with 200K+ miles. This is why a full rebuild is what's really needed for a reliable KA-T. The risk of failure dramatically increases when boost is raised past 6-7psi.
    no.
    "...I'm a thief, I'm a liar, There's my church, I sing in the choir..."

  13. #13
    Senior Member babowc's Avatar
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    ^ditto.

    failure occurs when the motor isnt tuned properly.
    ringlands blow,
    headgaskets blow.

    oiling?
    the ka24De have oil squirters.
    ka24E does not.
    we're talking about ka24De, so no need to mention that.
    my car is 200k right now.
    running perfectly fine but my valve stem seals worn.

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