Basic KA-T Set up

[BuBBa DRiFT]

Ok, I have a KA24DE with 160k on it. Came from an automatic, so Im taking a guess that it was pretty much ran normal. I have a KA-T set up using a t25 at internally wastegated 8 pounds.

Ive seen people push a lot more boost and work they're motor a lot more out of stock internals, but for a small amount of money, why not make it more reliable.

I have a minor rebuild in mind, basically renewing some stuff so it will take to the boost a little bit more.

I plan on seals, gaskets, o rings, and a cometic head gasket for a minor rebuild. Do you think thats enough for a KA with that mileage to not worry about it?

If you guys can give me a heads up on prices if I do it myself, and suggestions it would be great.


And another question, ive heard the term "Shaft play" does that pertain to the long metal rod that connects the two turbo housings? Mine wiggles a little bit, I got it from Sae at Finish Line Motorsports by the way.

Lets try not to make this a FLM flame fest either!


Thanks in advance!

[AE86_drift]

i think you should be good, jus keep the boost at a safe level! maybe 7 to 8 pounds.

[s13slider®]

yeah thats shaft play with low boost could or could not get worse but is that wheel breaks like mine did in my dsm it could fuck some shit up so i would suggest get a new turbo

[MoJo_JoJo]

Shaft play is pertaining to the turbine shaft. Look at the turbo (through the intake side-it's cleaner), grab the nut holding the turbine on and push and pull the shaft. Use some force. If you can feel any in-and-out movement the turbo is no good. Now, some up-and-down play is acceptable in the stock SR turbo, I'm presuming that's what you have.

The failure that happens with the KA is nothing usually in the top end, so valve guides, seals, seats, and head gasket may not play a part in helping the engine last longer. KAs have problems with bottom end oiling, even stock it's hard to find a reliable KA with 200K+ miles. This is why a full rebuild is what's really needed for a reliable KA-T. The risk of failure dramatically increases when boost is raised past 6-7psi.

Usually when it's all said and done it's less money and less hastle just to bolt in an SR, wich is why it's such a popular option.

[bluuuurr]

pistons are usually the first thing to go in a ka-t. if you can afford it, and while the motor is out, i'd look into replacing the pistons and rods.

[seksehowy]

Sae was a great guy :\.