oh... :((
Well, I just want somethin that looks good when I drop my car 2"...I don't want to slam it, but bigger wheels would make it look lower.
I'll hit you up if I can't get these blades...
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F4u corsair in first pic
Its too fast to be a civic. lol
Tommy, your S2K looks primered?!
Bro found 2 nitto tires with sidewalk cracks... He thinks he might be able to get nitto to give a discount for a new set from ntb
Lol should I get this?
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/2089081761.html
Lol
some people already question the stlye/theme of the truck as it is. This might just put them over the edge and call you all kinds of names. lol
Part 1: Alignment
2" drop means you will have some camber but that's not the issue. The issue is your changing the suspension geometry (angles between different components will change alot!) and the toe will change ALOT! The toe is what will kill tires, not the camber. Your car has zero adjustment for camber anyway (macpherson strut cars like mine, and newer hondas do have an adjustment for camber without a camber kit), but the toe is adjustable. After we lower it, I can adjust the toe on the front, but only as good as my eyes can see. I've never bothered adjusting the rear toe since its usually not so bad that i cant drive to get an alignment.
I've lowered lots of cars, and everytime i do, i drive it down the street to make sure nothing is majorly wrong, then park it. First thing the next day, i make the 20 mile drive to get my alignment. Everytime- EVERYTIME- i pull up, the alignment is off by more than you would think, and needs to get fixed. Its worth the $53 to get all four wheels aligned and not have to worry about killing tires. Plus, having the the specs set at whatever i want for my needs is always an added bonus. lol
Part2: your struts....
Your struts are a "wear item." in otherwords they're designed to slowly wear out over time like brake pads and clutches. The do so at such a slow rate that you usually dont even realize that they're bad. Typically, with 100k miles or more, they're done. Just because they don't clunk and clatter, doesn't mean they're "good." The rebound rate/stiffness is reduced excessively making the strut no longer functional...
Now the strut has a window of opperation. in other words the stuts moves up and down a specific amount (for arguements sakes we'll say 6"). The further down it goes (closer to that 6" rock bottom) the more pressure placed on the inside of the strut (the fluid inside the strut that CAN fill up 6" of space is now being FORCED/compressed into a space of say 2-3"). This pressure is what slowly forces the detoriation of the strut.
I say that to say this: once you lower it two inches, you've just reduced the struts window of operation 2" (or in our example, 33%)!!! This will rapidly kill an already aging strut really quick.
I'll still do it for/with you, but i strongly suggest you get a set of struts before we do it. A set of KYB GR2's are fairly inexpensive and work VERY well.
How much camber do you have? or are you just eyeballing it?
And how much toe do you have??
Typically on most Honda's, a 2" drop won't make camber bad enough to kill tires or have other ill effects. Bobby's Sol is SLAMMED and he's only (i use that word loosely) got 4* negative camber. Alot of guys try to run -1.5* up front and that much or more in the back increased cornering stability...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-K...item5ad18e42ff
They have gone up in price since I looked at them last, but still super reasonable struts...
No alignment needed after different wheels, only certain suspension modifications.
I aplaud your willingness to learn and ask questions! Two thumbs UP!!!!
how you gonna drop it ezone?? Coilovers??
And you wouldn't have such a stupid problem as your wheels poking out, if you would've gotten the propper size/offset. lol
I wanna see pics since you painted it!
cut springs ftw
Anybody want an official 300 page gt4 game guide for ps2?
It has alot of info about the real cars in it.
Aight Steve....
And drop blocks ftw... But y'all don't have solid axles and leaf springs
yeah i might get some egay coilovers and camber kit for now till i have more money to buy some real shit ......
hahaha yeah i know i might post them up to see if i can sell or get any trades...
ill take some pictures today , white wheels and midori green are a great combo :)
Bought my wife the newly released Droid Pro today. She is loving it. It's a huge step from her BB Tour which is a piece of shit.
My Droid X comes next weekend. :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
Why that?! lol
You bitch about missing your fo door yet, another hatch?!?!?!
Why not?
It has more potential then my other hatch..
Also I love EG chassis.
You swirl out the name of the subdivision
Not a bad looking hatch. I love the EG chassis too but my DC is perfect for me.
Why even waste your money on Chinese made shit instead of continue to save up and buy a good quality set? The spring rates will be off nor will they work well with the stock struts or any aftermarket strut for that matter unless you were to have the revalved to accomodate that spring rate. If you wanna do a "sleeve-over" kit, at least go with Ground Controls. They utilize Eibach springs and have been proven countless times to work well.
Although Steve has covered most of the bases, I'd like to elaborate a little more on the suspension topic.
For those that have the mindset that dropping your car to the ground thinking it will handle on rails is wrong. When you lower the car anything more than 1.5", you will have a negative impact on the suspension geometry. You will then need to start looking at camber plates (which many of you already know), anti-bump kits for the steering, etc. to have a somewhat decent handling car.
In terms of alignments, although camber is partial reason why tires wear out quicker, toe is the main gremlin. If you modify your suspension and don't get an alignment right after, you'll destroy your tires in a matter of miles. It doesn't take much. I've seen it happen first hand and you'll end up having to replace your tires. The more camber you decide to run, the more it negatively effects the straight line performance and the car will start to wander. If you plan on doing any performance events whether it be auto-x, HPDE, NASA, etc. you WON'T want to run more camber in the rear than the front. Doing so will only increase understeer on the car.
I could go on and on but who am I kidding, half the cars now and days are more for show than actually driving. :lmfao:
They alignment will be a lil off.. If you are "upgrading" from 15 to 16