Building a Home Teater

[Seymour222]

Hell yeah man.. Post pics of it when you're almost finished.

I'm going to look into adding panes to the studs. If money allows it.

Well, we got moved in tonight. We just sat the projector on the table and shot it up on the wall to see what kind of picture we can get. It's pretty freakin huge. I think we got pretty much what we were shooting for. Now all we need is that room finished and the projector mounted to the ceiling. And a really big screen!

I've got 2 pics that we just took to show how big the screen is (I'm 5'10" btw). When it's day light I'll take some better pics of the progress. We come in and cleaned the room a good bit getting it ready for work to be done.

Absolutely man, no prob. Its nothing really special, but Im proud of it. I wish my basement was a little bit bigger so I could put a couple rows of theatre seats. BTW, WTB Theatre seats. Georgia Home Theatre?

[ISAtlanta300]

GA Home theater has killer gear, but you can definitely shop around for theatre seats....even places like Haverty's and other furniture stores are sellign them.....

[The Ren]

My "theater"

[sirkus]

My "theater"

Damn thats a huge ass TV.



Just thought I would post an update. I'm currently getting ready for an electrician to come out and price how much they're going to charge me to move some wires around and fix some little issues I have with plugs down here. Once that is finished someone is coming out to finish the drywall.
I also purchased all of the cables that I am going to need for the in-wall installation. I received all of my wall plates for the speaker wire (12awg) and another 200ft of speaker wire. All of the HDMI and Component plates too.
I hope a 50ft HDMI and 50ft Component cable will reach.

HDMI Silver-Plated Copper CL2 Rated (For In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 50ft (Gold Plated)
PREMIUM 50FT 3-RCA Component Video Coaxial RG-6 18AWG 75Ohm CL2 Rated Cable
2x 12AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Cable - 100ft
I'm pretty much ordering everything from monoprice.com. They seem to have everything I need at really good prices. I just can't think of anything that I would need to go a head and run through the wall. So that I don't have cables just hanging around. I was thinking about running a VGA cable through the wall but that wouldn't be cheap and I figure if I ever wanted to hook my computer or something else up, I need to swap it to DVI.
Just thought I would update on my current status. I'll post some pictures of what it currently looks like tonight.

I want to see some more pictures of peoples theaters, see what other ideas I can borrow.

[fire7882]

You might also want to consider running a 2 inch pvc pipe through the wall as well(from video source to projector). If you ever needed to run aditional wires or one of your current wires becomes damaged, you could easily run new cables through this pipe without cutting into the walls. A lot of HT installers do this to allow the addition of new cables that might become necessary as technology progresses as well.

If you do install the pipe, Keep the # of bends to a mnimum. 1 bend is ideal but more than 3 and running the cable could become very hard if not impossible.

[JayKnight]

Building a home theater is a blast, and costly at the same time. We did ours on a semi tight budget, and it turned out pretty good. Our room was originally part of the garage, but I had plans for that.

Anyways, for a room that is 11 feet wide at the front two thirds and about 18 feet wide at the rear, by 25 feet from front to back, we think it will serve its purpose, just fine.

I am not a fan of pull down screens due to the wrinkle factor. I love our wall mounted screen with a diag. measurement of 110" and the projector. capabla of all forms of video 720i 1080i 1080p yada yada yada, and HD.

We were extremely picky on the sound so we went with BOSE LIfestyle 28 to stay in budget.

Well here are a couple pics. All we need now is some furniture then we will be happy.




For size comparrission, that wall is 11' wide and the screen is 8' wide and I am 6'-1.

Later !!!

[Jimmy B]

you coulda gotten WAY better than bose for the same money..

IMHO, bose is overpriced mid-range quality

[VooDooXII]

Awesome, and good luck!

I'll get some photos of what my parents have at their house. It's a Bose surround sound system, and a BenQ projector with a pull-down screen. I'll get dimensions, and like I said, photos up.

[sirkus]

Building a home theater is a blast, and costly at the same time. We did ours on a semi tight budget, and it turned out pretty good. Our room was originally part of the garage, but I had plans for that.

Anyways, for a room that is 11 feet wide at the front two thirds and about 18 feet wide at the rear, by 25 feet from front to back, we think it will serve its purpose, just fine.

I am not a fan of pull down screens due to the wrinkle factor. I love our wall mounted screen with a diag. measurement of 110" and the projector. capabla of all forms of video 720i 1080i 1080p yada yada yada, and HD.

We were extremely picky on the sound so we went with BOSE LIfestyle 28 to stay in budget.

Well here are a couple pics. All we need now is some furniture then we will be happy.




For size comparrission, that wall is 11' wide and the screen is 8' wide and I am 6'-1.

Later !!!

I like that room man, it looks damn nice. Pretty good setup too. I've met you before at the Accord/Prelude BBQ, I drove the S2k up there back in March.
What kind of projector are you running? I like those lights too.

You might also want to consider running a 2 inch pvc pipe through the wall as well(from video source to projector). If you ever needed to run aditional wires or one of your current wires becomes damaged, you could easily run new cables through this pipe without cutting into the walls. A lot of HT installers do this to allow the addition of new cables that might become necessary as technology progresses as well.

If you do install the pipe, Keep the # of bends to a mnimum. 1 bend is ideal but more than 3 and running the cable could become very hard if not impossible.

I was thinking about that the other day at work. We use metal conduit a lot and I noticed the electricians using other wires to pull new wires through it and I was wondering how often that is used in home theaters. Would I be better off with just the standard PVC piping or is there a type of conduit made for projects such as this? I'd probably say I'll need somewhere between 40-50' of tubing and I'd need more than one turn. I'd have to run along with the beams for the floor upstairs. (ceiling is drywalled to that.)

you coulda gotten WAY better than bose for the same money..

IMHO, bose is overpriced mid-range quality

I've heard that from several different sources. My roommate says a lot that Bose hasn't made any great speakers since the early 90's.

I've also read that their systems are prefect for some rooms that have limited space. I really don't know though. We have that Onkyo 804 and it sounds amazing.

I really can't wait to finish this basement and have it nice down here so I can actually bring people over and show them my theater. All of my cables and all of my plates have come in. I'm just waiting on the money for the electrician to come in and finish my wiring and move some plugs. I'm looking to be atleast 90% completed by Christmas (everything but paint and carpet).

[fire7882]

Regular pvc should be fine. Try running a string through it as you put the pieces together. Then when you need to pull a wire, the string is already in place.

[Frög]

not a fan of bose.. We got Cabasse speakers, French company (<- go figure lol) and they are amazing.. couldn't be happier! www.cabasse.com

I just ordered a 124" 16:9 motorized screen, so it comes down from the ceiling when I turn on the projector.. i will post pictures of my home theater this week..

[Frög]

You might also want to consider running a 2 inch pvc pipe through the wall as well(from video source to projector). If you ever needed to run aditional wires or one of your current wires becomes damaged, you could easily run new cables through this pipe without cutting into the walls. A lot of HT installers do this to allow the addition of new cables that might become necessary as technology progresses as well.

If you do install the pipe, Keep the # of bends to a mnimum. 1 bend is ideal but more than 3 and running the cable could become very hard if not impossible.

i have that in my home theater.. crucial thing to have!!

[The Ren]

I got an awesome deal on my TV.. The TV and the entire entertainment center was $1,500. I couldnt pass it up.

[Jecht]

Sorry I never posted mine... we have a 60" Mitsubishi and a basic 5.1 surround sound system.

[ISAtlanta300]

I'll take some pics of mine once i get a new TV........

[Frög]

im down sizing my current 153" to the 124"..

[sirkus]

im down sizing my current 153" to the 124"..

Jesus, what kind of projector do you run? Haha That'd also take a pretty good size room too.

[Frög]

Jesus, what kind of projector do you run? Haha That'd also take a pretty good size room too.

ill post pics, dimensions, and the equipment this weekend.. i promise!

[sirkus]

ill post pics, dimensions, and the equipment this weekend.. i promise!

Weekends up.. I'm excited to see it.

I've run into a little issue. I want to move the screen to the other side of the room. If we turn everything around we can go from our current 136" screen (just about 11ft) to something a little larger. But if we do that we have to move a doorway. Which won't be much of a deal. Electrician says it will be easier on him too.

I have a question about it though. How do I go about getting out nails that have been put in? I was going to just try to cut the doorway out but I don't own a saw that can cut that close to that 2x4. I figure I can take it all out and cut it and put it back up. Move the 2x4's to the old doorway and board it up. I really need to hang some drywall on the wall to see how large we can make the screen. Before all that is done too I need to run some speaker wire.

Here are a couple pictures of what I'm talking about. (yeah they're a little big.)

[fire7882]

just use a Bear Claw nail puller

Be careful when moving walls and doorways. If the new doorway is going in a load bearing wall, It will need a sufficient header. Also, the above joist should be supported temporarily while everything is being rebuilt to prevent sagging.

One last thing. Don't remove the current doorway framing, just add some studs at 16" on center and sheetrock over that. Then buy a few 2x4s to frame the new doorway(also appropriate lumber for the header if it is needed).

[Frög]

your project is coming along great!! really excited to see the end results! im changing mine a little bit. the old projector got fried in a thunderstorm so we are getting a new one.. also, i ordered the motorized screen which I will mount inside the ceiling by cutting the drywall.. When we finished the basement, before the walls were up we had pvc pipes put in to pass wires to the projector.. all speakers are also wired through the wall with speaker wall outlet plugs majiger.. seats are lazy boy and recline, the back row is elevated about a foot.. i was in a hurry so i took really bad pictures.. if you need a better picture of anything let me know and ill take it..







wow these pics are bad.. i will take some more Tuesday..

[Frög]

Weekends up.. I'm excited to see it.

I've run into a little issue. I want to move the screen to the other side of the room. If we turn everything around we can go from our current 136" screen (just about 11ft) to something a little larger. But if we do that we have to move a doorway. Which won't be much of a deal. Electrician says it will be easier on him too.

I have a question about it though. How do I go about getting out nails that have been put in? I was going to just try to cut the doorway out but I don't own a saw that can cut that close to that 2x4. I figure I can take it all out and cut it and put it back up. Move the 2x4's to the old doorway and board it up. I really need to hang some drywall on the wall to see how large we can make the screen. Before all that is done too I need to run some speaker wire.

easy, either you cut it with a wood saw (cheap hand saw) or you just take a hammer and hit as hard as you can close to the nail: red arrows.. once you get either the top or bottom loose, just those studs will come right off.. so if i get it right, your trying to make a new door way (green?).. you can make the new frame (pink) at least the two vertical studs before taking the other studs out for safety.. but the studs are not bearing studs, the blue one is critical so no worries if you take those out..

One last thing. Don't remove the current doorway framing, just add some studs at 16" on center and sheetrock over that. Then buy a few 2x4s to frame the new doorway(also appropriate lumber for the header if it is needed).

very important..

[jaystar]

2 more days until i pick up my tv i cant wait

[sirkus]

easy, either you cut it with a wood saw (cheap hand saw) or you just take a hammer and hit as hard as you can close to the nail: red arrows.. once you get either the top or bottom loose, just those studs will come right off.. so if i get it right, your trying to make a new door way (green?).. you can make the new frame (pink) at least the two vertical studs before taking the other studs out for safety.. but the studs are not bearing studs, the blue one is critical so no worries if you take those out..




very important..

The hammer trick worked, went and found the eastwing, knocked the boards right out with 2 swings. Thanks!
Now I'm wondering something else, all of my doors are 81-1/2" tall by 36-1/2" wide. I knocked out the 2 studs, and I've known that I need to cut the wood at the floor. That whole section where I'm trying to remove the 2x4's from is just one little framed section that was built before they put it up. Well, in order to cut out a 36-1/2" wide section of the top and bottom of the frame (because without the frame there it was an old pathway. It will look like the door to the right in the pictures.) The top section is nailed into the old door framing, that I can not get the claw into. There are around 15 nails in this part too. So I took all of the concrete nails from the bottom, and tried to knock the whole wall section out from under it so the nails would slip back out. But the only way I can get it out like that is to destroy the boards.
I started thinking while hitting it that when I finally get it out all I'll have to do it cut it to the same specs as this other door. And I need to remove the 2x4 on the left side of it too so that I won't have to do any extra dry wall work for the framing on the door.
Here's a couple pics of my progress in the past 10 mins.




Thanks for all of your help... I'm truly grateful.

[sirkus]

your project is coming along great!! really excited to see the end results! im changing mine a little bit. the old projector got fried in a thunderstorm so we are getting a new one.. also, i ordered the motorized screen which I will mount inside the ceiling by cutting the drywall.. When we finished the basement, before the walls were up we had pvc pipes put in to pass wires to the projector.. all speakers are also wired through the wall with speaker wall outlet plugs majiger.. seats are lazy boy and recline, the back row is elevated about a foot.. i was in a hurry so i took really bad pictures.. if you need a better picture of anything let me know and ill take it..







wow these pics are bad.. i will take some more Tuesday..

Damn man... I want those chairs.. That's a bad ass setup!

[fire7882]

First, before you remove anything else, make sure 100% that the wall isn't load bearing. If you start removing load bearing studs, you could run into a lot of trouble costing you thousands of dollars to fix.

Are you trying to raise the height where you have 38.5" marked?

[sirkus]

First, before you remove anything else, make sure 100% that the wall isn't load bearing. If you start removing load bearing studs, you could run into a lot of trouble costing you thousands of dollars to fix.

Are you trying to raise the height where you have 38.5" marked?

I'm 100% sure that it isn't load bearing. The place that is being framed used to be a pool room. Those doorways used to be wide open. Dad just built a frame for a door then installed it in that big doorway. And I can just get that framed part out I can cut the wood that I need gone and then stick it back up there. The doorway is 81-1/2" tall. Whenever I get that framed part out I can just cut that top, bottom and side boards out. And then get my actual door size from the framed section that I put back up. I think

I'll be able to explain better tonight whenever I get home.

[fire7882]

I think I underatand. So, the old door isn't in a load bearing wall.

You would be better off just reframming the new doorway than trying to move the old framming. I'll try to provide steps below.

CLOSE IN OLD DOOR
1. attach 2x4 to bottom of old doorway
2. cut and install studs in old doorway(toenail). Measure off the exhisting studs(not the door frame) to keep the new ones at 16" on center.
3. cover with sheetrock

MAKE NEW DOOR FRAME
1. Remove the 2x4 on the floor
2. Since the opening is already 38.5 inches wide and a 36 inch door requires a 38 in opening, just add a 1x4 to one side of the opening to make it 37.75(close enough to 38)
3. As long as the height is correct, you're all set as long as the new door isn't going in a load bearing wall.

Is the new door going in a load bearing wall?

[sirkus]

I think I underatand. So, the old door isn't in a load bearing wall.

You would be better off just reframming the new doorway than trying to move the old framming. I'll try to provide steps below.

CLOSE IN OLD DOOR
1. attach 2x4 to bottom of old doorway
2. cut and install studs in old doorway(toenail). Measure off the exhisting studs(not the door frame) to keep the new ones at 16" on center.
3. cover with sheetrock

MAKE NEW DOOR FRAME
1. Remove the 2x4 on the floor
2. Since the opening is already 38.5 inches wide and a 36 inch door requires a 38 in opening, just add a 1x4 to one side of the opening to make it 37.75(close enough to 38)
3. As long as the height is correct, you're all set as long as the new door isn't going in a load bearing wall.

Is the new door going in a load bearing wall?

Thanks a ton man.. I'm going to Home Depot to buy that claw tool so I can get all of those nails out. I'll just frame that whole section and make it so that both doors are 38". I think I might go a head and buy all of the wall boxes too for the receptacles and speaker wires. After this doorway situation is finished (hopefully tonight or tomorrow). Then I'll be ready for the electrician to come in and run all of my plugs and fix some wires.

Then on to the drywall!
I really can't wait for this room to be finished.

[Seymour222]

Mine is now fully functional. I am enjoying it throughly. I still haven't selected theater seats so I am currently using some bean bags. (I know pretty janky). I want to stage the theater chairs like Frog did. I am having trouble deciding between the Lane setup, or Ebay Interior Express. Ill post some pics of the setup later.

Frog-Do you regret making the platform a foot tall for your rear seats?

[sirkus]

Mine is now fully functional. I am enjoying it throughly. I still haven't selected theater seats so I am currently using some bean bags. (I know pretty janky). I want to stage the theater chairs like Frog did. I am having trouble deciding between the Lane setup, or Ebay Interior Express. Ill post some pics of the setup later.

Frog-Do you regret making the platform a foot tall for your rear seats?

Cool, bean bags make the screen look really tall I bet.

I really like his chairs too. I plan on getting a nice little set up like that in sometime. It's just hard forking out 2k+ for a place to sit when I have 2 couches sitting down here that I don't use already. I'd like some though, makes the room look more like a theater.

Did you ever go with the acoustic padding?

I made it by Home Depot today too, checked out a few color options that I can go with in the room. There's a color called Sailboat (deep blue) by BEHR that I may go with in the whole basement. I also bought me several tools to get things rolling faster down here.

Seymour222 - you should post up some pics of your masterpiece.

[Frög]

Frog-Do you regret making the platform a foot tall for your rear seats?

what do you mean? should i have made it taller? i think the height is perfect, because its just enough so that the person in front of you doesnt get in the way..


ya those seats were not cheap, but well worth the money! it makes the whole room..

the motorized screen is coming in soon, and im going to order a huge curtain to close off the entrance of the theater.. hopefully i can get it motorized with a remote.. that would be cool..

oh and we are still looking for a new projector.. cant beleive the other one got fried..

[VooDooXII]

Sorry I took so long to get photos up. This is my first weekend back home in a while.

[fire7882]

any updates?

[Seymour222]

Okay. So I finally took a pic of "Theater Room". Not much of a theater without theater seats, and just bean bags and video game chairs. Eventually I will make time to update. Here are a couple pics.

[Seymour222]

Edited. I had a pic that didn't belong.

[ugacivic]

heres my setup:

[sirkus]

heres my setup:

I love that tv and comp.. what kind of processor you running? Wish I had a setup for the upstairs similar to that.

[Jimmy B]

you need that thing hung on the wall!