Need help bad....EF hatch has problems.

[Cato ED-6]

Edit:
YaY cars running just fine now! lol

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So my car is slowing dieing it seems.

Its a stock D15B2 w/ Automatic trans.

For some reason my ECU doesn't want to come on after a very short drive (like 2 mins). And sometimes my dizzy is clicking when the car is off? also the gauge cluster lights like the door, oil, hatch, e-brake, check engine light are pulsing. And for some reason after a certain amount of time, like 30 mins, my car will start right back up again no problem. And note it has no problem driving at all.

I have codes 14 and 16 (IACV and Fuel Injector). I checked the auxiliary injector and its fine. After reinstalling it the code is gone...for now that is. The IACV problem I don't understand. It looks fine to me and my dad who is a master mechanic. Its beyond us whats wrong...

Just trying to figure out whats wrong. the problem seem to be getting worse so trying to figure it out fast.

[Bus Driver J]

I know on my hatch I had the issue of no restart after driving and it was the main relay. I pulled it out and resoldered the contacts. Works like a charm now. (I used to get stuck at the gas station almost every morning on the way to work, lol) That will cause the code 16.

As for the cluster lights flashing, Im not too sure. The bulbs you have listed all have a common power but the ground are all separate. Maybe the printed circuit board on the back is bad. Pull the cluster and see if it looks fine. Any sings of arching or burns.

As for the clicking dizzy, I have no clue. Ive never heard that before. There isnt anything to make a noise when the car isnt working. Its just full of sensors and the rotor button.

Hope I was any help. Let us know how it goes.

[volk_ef9]

the plastic piece that goes over the ignitor/under the r button could be smacking around on something check it out.

[volk_ef9]

also ive heard of gauge clusters going crazy when you try to put a auto cluster in a manual, but if its a auto cluster in a auto car good question. bad circuitry? i hvae a auto ef cluster i will sell you for 20.00 which is what i have in it if your intrested. i am located in augusta GA

[Cato ED-6]

Had the idea to check the main relay from a haynes manual and checked it last night and it seems to have solved my problem.

And also the "dizzy clicking" and "pulsing lights" don't seem to happen unless the main relay problem occurs.

Still checking it though. so soldering it will fix the problem? Any pictures or anything on how to and what not? My bro is good with wiring and that lot...

Or better yet any places I could buy a brand new one for cheap? Looked around the internet and autoparts stores and had no luck really... Starting to wonder if its a dealer item.

Thanks for the responses I need this car fixed.
I about jumped for joy having a reliable car again.

[Cato ED-6]

the plastic piece that goes over the ignitor/under the r button could be smacking around on something check it out.

???

Do you mean the rotor in the dizzy? That was my first idea. Like the rotor is still touching the cap and firing a spark plug. well something like that anyway...

[Cato ED-6]

As for the cluster lights flashing, Im not too sure. The bulbs you have listed all have a common power but the ground are all separate. Maybe the printed circuit board on the back is bad. Pull the cluster and see if it looks fine. Any sings of arching or burns.

Oh ya, if while the lights are pulsing if I turn the headlights on, even the corner lights, the pulsing will stop...

I forgot about that bit of info.

[Bus Driver J]

For the main relay the fix is easy. Everyone spends $20 or so on another used one when the fix is almost free. When you take the case covering off it you will see the internals. The side opposite the connector you will see a small circuit board. On the circuit board you will see mounds of solder. Some of these will crack and separate the electronic from the board. Just reheat the solder mounds. You dont even have to use new solder. Just reheat whats there and it will make good contact again. Its as easy as that. If I had an extra EF main relay, Id just fix it and swap it with yours but all my extras for for 92-00.

For the cluster and lights thing. When you turn the lights on, no matter what position other than off, there is the 12v sent to the cluster for illumination. That kinda tells me that the circuit board or some other wiring behind the dash it messed up. I have a 90-91 auto cluster you can try out if youd like to test out. Ill bring it with me to the V on thursday if youre going.

[Cato ED-6]

cool, my bro just soldered my relay. I guess I'll see what happens. If it fails I have someone who can re-solder the relay from scratch. Or if need be I'll look for another one.

Actually I'm not going to be able to make it to the Varsity. I'm going to Parris Island, SC for my friends USMC Graduation. But if need be I'll send you a PM later if the problem persists. and thanks again.

[revized_DX]

cant be the dizzy!!!!

lol i can promise ya that! that thing was not really that old when i gave it to ya! i ran it for just a little while with the dpfi before i did my mpfi swap. i never had anything happen to me ignition wise with that dizzy and the rotor should have been tight thanks to threadlock!

if you are still indeed running the same dizzy i gave you!

[Cato ED-6]

cant be the dizzy!!!!

lol i can promise ya that! that thing was not really that old when i gave it to ya! i ran it for just a little while with the dpfi before i did my mpfi swap. i never had anything happen to me ignition wise with that dizzy and the rotor should have been tight thanks to threadlock!

if you are still indeed running the same dizzy i gave you!

lol wut?

No no...the one we got from you is on the CRX, not the hatch.
We've had no problem with the dizzy.

My problem seemed to come from the main relay. I think I fixed it though. If I had problems with the dizzy I can pretty fix it myself, I've had dizzy problems for as long as I've owned this hatch. lol

[volk_ef9]

???

Do you mean the rotor in the dizzy? That was my first idea. Like the rotor is still touching the cap and firing a spark plug. well something like that anyway...

there is a plastic piece in most honda/acura distributors that over the ignitor... maybe its came loose and is smacking the rotor button or maybe your rotor button is loose... ive seen all kinds of shit that you wouldnt expect and it wound up being that.

[Bus Driver J]

there is a plastic piece in most honda/acura distributors that over the ignitor... maybe its came loose and is smacking the rotor button or maybe your rotor button is loose... ive seen all kinds of shit that you wouldnt expect and it wound up being that.

Impossible, read this again.
[QUOTE=Cato ED-6]And sometimes my dizzy is clicking when the car is off? /QUOTE]

There is no way the inner cover came be making any kind of contact with anything when the car ISNT running. If it is, you got other issues....

[rbwdriven]

main relay.

my old hatch use to do the same thing.

Drive it somewhere would not start, let it cool down and then would fire without an issue. Gave me all kind of electical gremlins.

Ended up buying a new relay, problems went away.

I now just say f-it and solder it.

[volk_ef9]

[quote=Bus Driver J;38359391]Impossible, read this again.

And sometimes my dizzy is clicking when the car is off? /QUOTE]

There is no way the inner cover came be making any kind of contact with anything when the car ISNT running. If it is, you got other issues....

ROFL, i kinda missed that part j.

[thinkskater]

this could be many things. i had similar symptoms one time and all it was , was a dead battery.

[Cato ED-6]

lol forgot about this thread, been sick for past few days.

After fixing the main relay the car is running just fine. I drove to Parris Island, SC and back with no problems at all.

I'm guessing the relay was causing some electrical problems with the car, but it seems just fine now.

Anyways thanks for the responses you guys. I really appreciate it.

[Bus Driver J]

Glad it worked it out for you.