Which ones do you want?Originally Posted by Konstantin
Which ones do you want?Originally Posted by Konstantin
Pasword JDM 3 point front strut bar (link)Originally Posted by jfrolang
I like the design of the bars, not to mention the cross reinforcement piece inside the bars...thats been my #1 thus far. Any siggestions, J?
"You mean we can never catch up to him, not even if we rub the engine with cheetah blood?"
i would like to have my built d16 in my car all wired up and tuned for spray, just need a blown/used motor to pull various parts from, goin for 300whp on spray and 150-160whp NA, motor is fully built, got a z6 head being built now with springs,valves,retainers,5 angle valve job, port and polish, my machine guy i use removed 7lbs worth of metal porting and polishing the head alone!
I want to get my CRX tuned and running good. Thats it for right now. Later on some body work and paint.
i would like to
-find another shell to transfer everything from my hatch into.
-redo my suspenssion w/ GC coil overs, KYB AGX struts, fastbrakes 11" big brake kit on all 4 corners, skunk2 LCA's, skunk2 upper control arms, SPEC camber kit F/R, SPEC rear toe ajusters.
-replace my boltin rollcage w/ a full 8pt. weldin cage NASA & SCCA spec.
-get another set of wheels.
-finish up my LSVTEC which is 90% complete & possibly swap in hatch (still undecided).
-paint depending on color of new shell. if not white it will undergo a complete color change to white, w/ satin black hood, bumpers, duck bill, and side molding.
I don't understand why you would buy the skunk2 arms and also buy camber kits.Originally Posted by 00CelicaGT
On a related note, I was recently told that the Skunk2 rear upper arms are backordered for at least the next 6 months. It took about 10 weeks for me to get my S2 front upper arms.
I'm not convinced that a 3-point front strut bar holds any advantage over a good 2-point bar like the Neuspeed. I have a Neuspeed and it is my recommendation. If you're set on a 3 pt though, check out Explicit Speed Performance.
http://www.explicitspeedperformance.net/StrutBars3.html
For a rear strut bar, Neuspeed, ESP or Password are the only worthwhile choices (because they don't have hinge points). I have the ESP bar because it's the cheapest.
Thats like saying one sway bar is useless. If anything, in a honda, you would most likely want a strut bar on the rear and not the front. Stiffening up the rear will help swing the back end around, give you more oversteer. Over-doing the front will make it too tight and just give you more understeer. Almost all Pro Hondas I see have no front sway bar or strut bar, and just a HUGE sway bar in the back.Originally Posted by southside
And again, a lot of guys I talk to about strut bars just blow them off like there nothing. I noticed no difference whatsoever when I put one on my CRX, well, except it now makes noise cause it was designed by password jdm and my TB hits it. If I had the time, I could actually design a suspension setup in AutoCAD and show you why a strut bar makes very little to no difference whatsoever.
PS - I auto-x my CRX.
I hate you, Where you liveOriginally Posted by southside
? Man, I want an LSD soooo bad. Again, its that money thing.
Which ones? Neither my brothers 92 (although it was a standard), nor my wifes 97 had any on them.Originally Posted by southside
EDIT - sorry, just reread, thought you said strut bar..Yeah, your right. Most cars come with them. My HF has a hollow one up front, and came with nothing on the back. Of course, now it has one on the back.
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.....maybe get this dart talldeck in finally.
we'll see though - i'm in no hurry and the hatch is no slouch as it sits right now.....![]()
Originally Posted by Tasuki_Civic
Originally Posted by Black R
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I want everyone think long and hard before they make any purchases. Some of the items that people want are seriously waste of money. I would suggest you RESEARCH, COMPARE, and LISTEN before you throw your money down the drain.
{EF Gurus disregard this post}
Plenty of things.Originally Posted by southside
NawwwwOriginally Posted by southside
I just want everyone to realize that a high price doesn't necessary means the best. Also, if something is proven to work why buy something different that's the same price or more.Also, people should really think about what their car's purpose is and budget themselves accordingly. Example if you don't track your or why buy the best suspension setup?!? EFs can become endless pits (just ask some of the people that got $$$ spent on their cars), and it's better to budget and shop around and compare price before you make that jump. So basically my advice is to..... get advice, come up with a plan, get some more advice, and then start making purchases. Just so you make the right decisions the 1st time and wont have to change stuff out much.
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haha. ITA....
nuff said
i know..... but spec miata sounds like a better choice!
or go back to sts and win win win.
Originally Posted by Tasuki_Civic
hmm. if i could afford the 7k motor invasion, i would be in SM. but its just cheaper in ITA and I like Pro-IT. I've already done the SM thing. spec pinata... crazyOriginally Posted by Black R
Fixed that for ya!Originally Posted by matthewAPM
The thing about spec classes is that they're great until everyone figures out all the little "tricks". Once those are found, and it usually takes some coin by way of testing to find them, then the cost begin to climb to stay competitive. The same thing will eventually happen with classes like SpecE30. It's only a matter of time.
yep. i mean look at the national level SM cars. like 150 hp?! wtf. just wait till this happens to E30. will go crazy. i think its just stupid to spend $40,000 on a dang miata.Originally Posted by StraightSix
IT classes FTW.... alot cheaper than SM.
BTW, StrightSix, you going to be at RA this weekend?
Dare is a very smart person. Listen to him. If you shop around for prices and also have a plan then it does work. Trust me on this one. I have two small kids.
I have two project cars. One is a ef hatch and the other is a mustang svo.
I have to do budget my money since my wife is a stay at home mum. Owning a svo and trying to get it back on the road is not an easy thing. I own a very rare car, I have to have a list and try and find the best prices for both the svo and the hatch.
I've done pretty well on the hatch. I ended up with a B16 for free just cause a buddy got sick of looking at it. The svo is a total different matter due to how rare the car is I have to save constantly for it. If you can find a hood for it your looking at around $1000, i had to get new lower control arms for the front they were a $1000 due to they are rare and discontinued.