Brakes/Tires/Suspension/Chassis (performance)

[jfrolang]

11k/16k spring rates? You drive this car on the street?

[EvasiveEF9]

Sorry to have been gone so long, everyone...

Ben - To get your rear camber more positive, you can add washers behind the pivot link that is bolted to the body. You have to also use slightly longer bolts to maintain the correct amount of thread engagement.

You're not diggin' the ATE Blue? That stuff's supposed to be GOOD. As for my camber, I'm not too concerned. When I get the new shell, THEN I'll shoot for perfection. Right now, it's just on standby...

I guarantee your toe is off if you haven't had an alignment since lowering it.

I second this FACT. Not opinion...FACT.

Fluid: Motul RBF600
Prop. Valve: 40/40

Wheels: 15x8 Sportmax typeII

-jonathan

How's that fluid work for ya? 4040 on stock...you've gotta have rear discs, I'd hope...? Those wheels...the width is gonna help ya, but the weight of sportmax wheels is gonna kill ya. When you look at new wheels, consider a slightly skinnier and lighter wheel.

HPs are the white adjustables i believe.

do not slam your car with these installed bro. The top main seal will split in half within 400 miles. I'll put money on it.

Tokico has a bad habit of leaving the body length of the strut about 1" too short to accept the rod fully into the cylinder, this creates all kinds of un needed stress on the internals of the damper (you'll hear a knocking, that's the damper bottoming out).

-jonathan

Good to know. Repped. Good to know...

wait, what are we supposed to be doing? talking about our suspension setup and how good it is?

ok here goes:

apexi n1 99spec coilovers with 11k front and 16k rear springs
integra big brakes all around along with the master cylinder
itr rear lca's and front shock forks
suspension techniques rear swaybar set on full soft
neuspeed front upper strut tower bar
ebay upper rear strut tower bar
jimfab traction bars with a custom front subframe brace

i run factory settings for toe and about 2.5deg of negative camber

the car is about 4.5" from the jacking points to the ground\

i have a few different sets of wheels, but right now I've got some 15x8 te37's and 225/45/15 hoosiers.

impressions:

I'm still sorting it out, but it's pretty neutral with a bit of understeer until you lift in a corner. I can remedy that by increasing the stiffness of the rear swaybar, but I'm not happy with the way the endlinks mount and the angle so I think I'm going to have some machined that'll fit my needs.

I'll update as I do some more testing.

You little friggin' baller...
What's the difference in the ITR front forks, out of curiosity? Also, let us know how you play with the rear sway. I'm looking to get one, and I'm interested to see which is my best purchase...

11k/16k spring rates? You drive this car on the street?

...he never said it's his daily. That's all I'm sayin'. But I'll warn ya...when you think you know him, you're wrong.

[Black R]

11k/16k spring rates? You drive this car on the street?

I daily drove it for 3 years like that and wifey even daily drove it for like a year while I was rebuilding the motor in her itr.

The dampers are adjustable, so I just turn them to full soft for street duty - it wasn't too bad driving to FL and back. Now the roads in TN and Ohio suck imho! I drove up there a couple months ago and hated the ride in my EF. That wasn't the car's fault though - those people need to pave some shit! LOL

I don't daily drive my EF much anymore - mainly because I bought this 240 and it's fun to rwd it up.