feb 9thQuote:
Originally Posted by 89 lude
Printable View
feb 9thQuote:
Originally Posted by 89 lude
** yawn **Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdare23
I'm sorry, have we met? :)
You know you gotta drive the fuck out of your hatch to do better!Quote:
Originally Posted by EF_SCOTSMAN
oh ok well i try to see everyone there
Sorry I got you mixed up with a chump!Quote:
Originally Posted by BABY J
LOL
check in:
1990 Civic STD (white w/ black bumpers)
SiR spoiler
VR6 front lip
EF3 fogs
Enkei Racing 15x6.5 (black w/ red lip) with doodoo 195/50's
Ground Control's with KYB's
Benen rear lower tie bar
apex-i world sport poo shooter
Cusco front upper strut bar
EF7 hood
EF9 window guards
C's Racing shifter (BALLIN!!!)
B17:
p30 pistons, Crower Stage 2 bumpsticks, ITR valvetrain
Stock blue interior!!
HF cluster!!
BigD, back in the game baby.
Sounds good! :goodjob:Quote:
Originally Posted by 89 lude
that was missing four al so if you want to see a video go to myspace and watch it tell me what you think.. http://www.myspace.com/deeboe2003
That's what I'm taking about :goodjob: !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by loneSTAR
{this is my JDM rolemodel} :bowdown:
that right there is bad ass...
Get off that man's dick LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by bigdare23
Scotsman are you staying with obd0 or converting to obd1?
only if you get off of my mines SON!Quote:
Originally Posted by toonz
{gotta rep who helps ya}
obd0 , why do ya ask pops?!?!
Just a thought!Quote:
Originally Posted by EF_SCOTSMAN
cuz obd1 is better, but get your car run right first and think about that later :goodjob:Quote:
Originally Posted by EF_SCOTSMAN
Watch ya mouth son!Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdare23
I can do what I want! Dont forget I'm KING REX!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by toonz
Since your B16 is stock you really wouldn't have to worry about that right now, but when you get all of your bolt on's and do any headwork (if you plan to) it would be a good thought to go with obd1 so you can chip it and tune it so you can squeeze a bit more power out of it! You should snatch those pistons up from spoon ASAP!
^^^^^referring to Scotsman^^^^
Anyone with a stock OBD1 LS in a hatch, what kinda times would I be looking at when I make it to the track?
b18A1...stock...
when can i get my allowance dad (toonz)?!?!?!? lol
low 15's (if you cant drive)Quote:
Originally Posted by JokerTypeR
high 14's (if you can)
LS gearing isnt made for 1/4
Problem is I"m not sure it's an LS tranny...Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdare23
It's either LS, Si or GSR, not sure (the tranny...I forgot that this would change my times...LoL). All I know is it's YS1...dude told me it was a GSR when I bought it, but I think he lied. Problem is, I haven't got the car to run just right, nor had a tach to hook up to it to determine what she is...
For now, I'll imagine my times being low 15's (if it's the LS tranny) and high 14's (if it's the Si). Not that I can't drive...I'm having to re-learn where my power cutoff and stuff is.
Meh...not too worried. It's quick enough that it gets me around daily with a smile.
Interesting! So what tranny should he run with?
YS1 = LS unless it's the JDM YS1 then that's a b16 trannyQuote:
Originally Posted by JokerTypeR
D, I heard that some of the YS1's were GSRs?
{I'm wrong}Quote:
Originally Posted by JokerTypeR
cable LS tranny = cable GSR tranny in the DA's
{correction}
JDM DA tranny = cable GSR tranny
http://allmotorhonda.com/techpages/B...anny_specs.htm
Your tranny is a cable one, correct?? If it is a YS1 cable it would have to be a LS transmission i believe :goodjob: It would be rare to find a b17 tranny.Quote:
Originally Posted by JokerTypeR
Alright. I'll imagine it's an LS. Oh well, still quicker than I had before, and that's all I really care about, LoL. Now if I can just get that damn timing...
look at my post above^^^ edit it
Yes, it's cable alright. I didn't want hydro (bleh)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JokerTypeR
Yeah, going from a mostly stock duel point motor to a LS is going to feel like a huge difference :goodjob:
Tell me if im wrong But Scotsman I think this is what you will need to do if you wanted to wire up your motor yourself,
on the JDM wiring harness you have already;
Vtec Solenoid should be "Yellow/Green" and it needs to be in pin number A4
Vtec Oil Pressure Sensor "Blue"( off the pass side Harness) pin # D6
Vtec Ground "Black" chassis ground
Knock Sensor "Red/Blue" 12V(hot in ON or Start) meaning when you turn the car on it should recieve power but when you turn it off it turns off LOL
Evap Purge Solenoid "red" pin # A20
just doing a mpfi swap is a huge difference LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by slow_hatch
And by mostly stock...you mean BONE stock, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by slow_hatch
Well, the head MIGHT have been shaved a little bit when it was at the shop, I don't know...but even if so, it was barely enough to count... :goodjob:
Just use your old harness and wire these up and you should be good! But if it seems to messy, hard to do, or complicated just get one from RYWIRE.com LOL
Or spend the extra 150, and just use the boomslang obd0-1 harness and do it all once...
^that too!
But you did have some sort of modifications(ex. intake, exh) If not it is a big jump :lmfao:Quote:
Originally Posted by JokerTypeR