Polished up hazy headlights using Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish
I don't know if this stuff will last or if it will eat up the headlights. But these are spare headlights I had laying around. I made a mess the first time. I recommend wiping the polish on with a pad and then using some powered polishing. Don't recommend applying polish to the power tool, apply to headlight instead. DOh!!
DIY thread of the year. Thorough step by step directions lol! :facepalm:Originally Posted by SweatyBalls
I don't know if this stuff will last or if it will eat up the headlights. But these are spare headlights I had laying around. I made a mess the first time. I recommend wiping the polish on with a pad and then using some powered polishing. Don't recommend applying polish to the power tool, apply to headlight instead. DOh!!
http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/DSC_0746.jpg
http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/DSC_0747.jpg
http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/DSC_0749.jpg
http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/DSC_0748.jpg
Seriously, metal polish is the best for plastic polishing. I've been doing it for years. Blue Coral makes a metal polish that has a silicone sealant in it too and have found it works the best.
I think the Mother's M&A Polish was like under $10 for the 10oz and under $5 for the smaller size. I'll have to try the Blue Coral. Even though the Mothers did a decent job it wasn't perfect. Maybe I'll go back and do it again and longer polishing time. It's plastic so I didn't want to over do it.
Last edited by SweatyBalls; 11-04-2009 at 07:56 PM.
will it remove that scaley type crust from the head light?
yes i am....
You'll want to wet sand it then polish it.
Fantastic write up.
On a serious note, Im convinced that this is the best pre-assembled kit offered. Never seen ANYTHING work as well. It looks as though the OP used the fitting for the drill which is included in this very kit, or one identical to it.
Well done on that accord headlight, looks great but the yellowing will be back for more. I can tell that you didn't wet-sand it by looking at the corner of the light.
User error or lack of enough product is very common with those.Fantastic write up.
On a serious note, Im convinced that this is the best pre-assembled kit offered. Never seen ANYTHING work as well. It looks as though the OP used the fitting for the drill which is included in this very kit, or one identical to it.
Leisa and S. 4 Life NM?
x2 what i heard from a buddy at autozoneFantastic write up.
On a serious note, Im convinced that this is the best pre-assembled kit offered. Never seen ANYTHING work as well. It looks as though the OP used the fitting for the drill which is included in this very kit, or one identical to it.
cars
-98 boosted ej8 (baby boost) -traded
-97 ek gsr 5lug itr-(nunu) - traded
- 97 Ej8 greddy boosted b16 w/ goodies - (sasha) traded
- 02 maxima 3.5 6spd - (maxi) - current
you didnt wet sand it?
Bump fir you
Slidin Sidewayz...
I always wet sand them first, seems to turn out better and last longer.
11.7@116- All motor H2B Integra
i used mothers polished and its been goimg strong for a year now,but i use sand paper first
92 DA9 with a b20 on 8lbs daily
DALLAS 8-4 1st in the nfc east
No I didn't wet sand it, just wanted to spend a minute on it and see how it would clean up without any effort. Lazy.... yes very!
If they weren't my spare headlights that I don't plan on using, then I may take the time to wet-sand it.
I don't even know where that foam polishing pad came from, it was just in my toolbox. It may have been from the 3M kit.
Thanks for all the response.
yeah i tried it about 3 weeks ago on my car and the yellow came off pretty well..and still hasnt returned.its a great 5 mins in effort improvement.
i wet sand with 2000 till consistent and then use the dewalt buffer and meguires compounds. Its been a few months now and still shiny. It usually will come back if you dont clean them and wax them from time to time, the factory coating has just burned off from sun and weather and you really should clear coat them or put the 3m clear bra stuff on them to make it more permanent.
www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
Daily D: 2007 Dodge 2500 MEGA CAB, Cummins Turbo Diesel
ive allways wondered about that as well
i THINK itd go like this 800-1000...and just clear them (like by a car paint shop) cux
there'd be no need to polish cuz the paint would need some sorta surface to adhear to
anyone done this..... I have a cousin that paints n he says "yeah itll work
but it may flake off at some point, the clear is made to bond onto PAINT
not plastic" what you guys think....or has anyone on here ever had a set cleared before?
PawnShopMike
I miss-spell big words freeqwentleethanks Dekalb Co skhool systems
it would work fine, clear is made to bond to anything that is properly prepped for it, like fresh base coat, or a properly sanded sub strait.
www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
Daily D: 2007 Dodge 2500 MEGA CAB, Cummins Turbo Diesel
with that being said......automotive clear would last way longer than a polish
job....right??!?!?!??!?!?!?, cuz it has uv stabilizers in it
PawnShopMike
I miss-spell big words freeqwentlee
I've wondered this myself, and what you guys put on the headlights to protect them from UV?
Just keep them waxed.
Do not put automotive clear on them, you'll just be recreating the problem.
The clear will pit since the lights are up front, then it's down hill from there. The clear will also give it a texture.
When you do it the RIGHT way, Clear is unnecessary.
Leisa and S. 4 Life NM?
Bump for lookin
that kit has the exact sand paper grit for the headlights to come out good. that trizac at the end is the key
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