Washed, claybared, and waxed my friend's 240

[Elbow]

Rubbing alcohol is pretty bad too, they make bug and tar remover especially for this. Don't follow this advice unless you really want to mess up your finish.

Stay away from me then I use thinner to get off tar.

Oh wait that was the Ferrari detailer telling me to do that.

[MachNU]

Wash with microfiber towels, use dish soap, not car soap, it's a stronger detergent, and it will clean better, the downside is the detergents will also eat off old wax.

-Correct and incorrect. Only certain microfibers are meant for washing. Ones you get from Autozone, etc will actually marr the paint somewhat as you wash. DAWN soap is used for people who do full correction as its great for stripping off any wax and sealants from the paint. But you would still follow this up with a normal wash to remove any dawn left on the paint.

Then use 91% Isopropil Rubbing Alcohol for tough tar, grease, oil and grime, wipe in small circles with a microfiber towel until the blemish lifts then rinse with water as you do not want the alcohol to sit on the clearcoat for a long period of time.

-Thats actually a stupid thing to do. Again that is a professional detailing trick to use when its diluted, but thats only for making sure panels are completely clean after claying, compounding and polishing.

Then use a spray on detailer with a claybar (they come in kits together) and rub the clay in the same direction that the wind flows over the car. Do small 5 or 6 inch square areas at a time. The clay will get easier and easier to move across the surface until there isbasically no resistance. When it gets to that point, move on until the whole car is done. Kneed the clay to expose clean clay as needed.

-The direction you do is not a factor. Its not going to change how easily containments come off the paint. Doing it in a 5x6 squares is just stupid and who ever told you this had no idea what they where talking about.

Wax at the end with a round wax applicator and rub in very tight circles. the tigheter and more overlapping the circles, the better the wax will be applied, but the longer the car will take, so find a comfortable median. Then, allow the wax to dry (not in direct sunlight) and rub it off.

-Also close but no. Rubbing in small tight circles is not going to make a difference. Unless your using a wax with has correctaive abilities then as long as you get a thin even layer across the car your fine. Also dont really let it dry, most just let it get to a haze and then remove. If you let it dry completely it will generally cake up and make for a harder time to remove it.

Your answers in bold in the quote.

I KNEW you were going to come in here cocky and all. You're not the best.

Hell I would not have said anything if it wasnt for the tips he was giving. Also who said I was the best? I just know I am better than alot of others.

NO! Do not use dish soap, especially on a newer car, it breaks down and destroys the clear coat and finish. Use car soap and just scrub a little harder.

Not that you cant, just dont use it in a heavy concentration. It with a alittle water as a wax stripping step is quite common.

Rubbing alcohol is pretty bad too, they make bug and tar remover especially for this. Don't follow this advice unless you really want to mess up your finish.

Yep, even more so if its not diluted correctly.

Stay away from me then I use thinner to get off tar.

Oh wait that was the Ferrari detailer telling me to do that.

Actually Mineral Spirits can be used in detailing paint correction if its diluted correctly.

[87 Turbo II]

Your answers in bold in the quote.

I appreciate the lessons, I'll be more careful. These are just things had heard and it seems that it was just poor communication on real tips that messed me up, as I was like 1/3 right about everything, haha.