Project FD Timeline......

[man]

Clean FD man. I want to pick one up eventually

[UpSideDownDesi]

took me a min to update. So got the car back this past week. Now the engine is running as healthy as it can be, i can focus on exterior and interior. All i can say, this is gonna be no cheap project. Parts for these car are arm and a leg. Updated pix are under "August-Spetember"

[David88vert]

Good luck, good thing he drove it once in awhile, if he didnt, the apex seals have a tendency to dry out and rot.

Get a radiator on it, and go sequential to eliminate all those vacuum lines

Apex seals cannot dry out and rot - they are metal. So are the corner seals and side seals. It's obvious that you have not rebuilt one before. The oil seals are rubber, as are the coolant seals, is that what you were trying to refer to? They will not have a problem either, as long as the car was run once in a while, as he referred to earlier.

Upgraded radiator is good to have, but the AST upgrade is more important.

No need to change from non-sequential, just reploace the vacuum lines with silicon lines.

[UpSideDownDesi]

AST tank was replaced last year so it should hold up for some time, but i'll be upgrading to a metal one regardless. Yea radiator is a must on these dang things. Don't really drive the car often or push it so i am gonna do that at the end after finishing the car up.

[1439/2000]

AST tank was replaced last year so it should hold up for some time, but i'll be upgrading to a metal one regardless. Yea radiator is a must on these dang things. Don't really drive the car often or push it so i am gonna do that at the end after finishing the car up.

When you upgrade to a metal one I'll take your old one. Mine is stock but looks rough, I can't see paying 150 bucks for a metal can.

Unless you know where there are cheaper alternatives.

[Vteckidd]

Apex seals cannot dry out and rot - they are metal. So are the corner seals and side seals. It's obvious that you have not rebuilt one before. The oil seals are rubber, as are the coolant seals, is that what you were trying to refer to? They will not have a problem either, as long as the car was run once in a while, as he referred to earlier.
.

LOL im happy to have NEVER worked on them.

Ehh someone told me that age and time can kill the Apex Seals or some other vital part in the car. Forget what it was. Maybe it was the oil/coolant seals that dry out it they are left sitting.

All i know is pretty much every rotary guy ive talked to has said that you do not want to by a car thats been sitting for longer than a year

but i digress, i could care less if im wrong or right , its a rotary, they all break eventually anyway lol

[1439/2000]

^My FD had been sitting since 2004 and still has perfect compression. Its on its second motor but pulls 18 in hg at idle.

[Vteckidd]

AMAZING!

OMGZORZ I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT ROTARTYS!!

[UpSideDownDesi]

When you upgrade to a metal one I'll take your old one. Mine is stock but looks rough, I can't see paying 150 bucks for a metal can.

Unless you know where there are cheaper alternatives.

yea parts ain't cheap....EGR valve for $190 , and pulsation damper was $140.....that's cheap because at rick case it's $179+lol. Let me know if u want my old damper, it looked fine when it was pulled out. I'll shoot u a PM when i replace the AST.

[1439/2000]

yea parts ain't cheap....EGR valve for $190 , and pulsation damper was $140.....that's cheap because at rick case it's $179+lol. Let me know if u want my old damper, it looked fine when it was pulled out. I'll shoot u a PM when i replace the AST.

I appreciate it. I need the RX-7 emblem on the back too but at 76 bucks from the dealer. Ehh everyone still knows its an FD. lol

[2turbo4u]

Nice FD you got their.

[67MercCougar]

Very nice and now clean FD

[Five*Star*]

Apex seals cannot dry out and rot - they are metal. So are the corner seals and side seals. It's obvious that you have not rebuilt one before. The oil seals are rubber, as are the coolant seals, is that what you were trying to refer to? They will not have a problem either, as long as the car was run once in a while, as he referred to earlier.

Upgraded radiator is good to have, but the AST upgrade is more important.

No need to change from non-sequential, just reploace the vacuum lines with silicon lines.

I was wondering when someone was going to come in and set it straight. I thought i was going to have to elaborate haha. No offense "Mike"



But again Sunny, those old coolant and oil seals can give out, even if the car was driven regularly. Rubber only can resist extreme heat for so long. If the previous owner didn't provide documentation, then there is no idea how long that engine has been in that car or if it's been rebuilt. Good Luck on your FD journey.

[YoshiFD3S]

I haven't posted on this thread yet?!?!

BLASPHEMY!!!

The FD looks GREAT, man! I'm really impressed by the HUGE improvement your exterior/interior clean-up had on the appeal of the car.

Makes me miss my last Montego Blue FD that I had, while I was still in GA.

Hopefully this next project FD of mine will be at Lethal, in Alpharetta where my bro works...in about 2 weeks. Be sure to stop by!

I'll be keeping up with this thread. I wanna know what your plans are..

[UpSideDownDesi]

I was wondering when someone was going to come in and set it straight. I thought i was going to have to elaborate haha. No offense "Mike"



But again Sunny, those old coolant and oil seals can give out, even if the car was driven regularly. Rubber only can resist extreme heat for so long. If the previous owner didn't provide documentation, then there is no idea how long that engine has been in that car or if it's been rebuilt. Good Luck on your FD journey.

surprisingly the guy had all the documentation on the car date to 199x. One of the reason i felt confident buying the car even in the condition it was in.

[UpSideDownDesi]

I haven't posted on this thread yet?!?!

BLASPHEMY!!!

The FD looks GREAT, man! I'm really impressed by the HUGE improvement your exterior/interior clean-up had on the appeal of the car.

Makes me miss my last Montego Blue FD that I had, while I was still in GA.

Hopefully this next project FD of mine will be at Lethal, in Alpharetta where my bro works...in about 2 weeks. Be sure to stop by!

I'll be keeping up with this thread. I wanna know what your plans are..

as of now there are no major plans on the car. Since it has such low mileage, in a way i want to keep it as close to stock as i can to preserve it's value and it will be looooot easier to sell in future if i ever have to part.

[Dracc]

dag sunny.. you came up from the gsr lol

[UpSideDownDesi]

dag sunny.. you came up from the gsr lol

99 EK Civic, Maxima SE, GSR, GSR, now WRX & RX-7....missing the Civic and GSR these days, reason will be gas lol.

[Dracc]

99 EK Civic, Maxima SE, GSR, GSR, now WRX & RX-7....missing the Civic and GSR these days, reason will be gas lol.

welll F u 2 lol.. I gotz boost now hahahahah lol :boobies:

[UpSideDownDesi]

Update in first post. My luck car almost done aaaaand time to rebuild the engine so project goes on. Car still idels perfect when coolant is low so apex/corner seals still must be good, but after i top off the coolant it starts flowing in from where it has probably cracked. Could be a hose or vavle...who knows till some Rotary gurus get their hands on it.

[Boosted FC]

Update in first post. My luck car almost done aaaaand time to rebuild the engine so project goes on. Car still idels perfect when coolant is low so apex/corner seals still must be good, but after i top off the coolant it starts flowing in from where it has probably cracked. Could be a hose or vavle...who knows till some Rotary gurus get their hands on it.

Is the coolant bubbling? Have you got all the air out of the cooling system? FDs are not as easy to get air out of the cooling system as it was on FCs. If all the air is out of the cooling system, you could have a bad coolant seal.

[GirlieZ]

looking good sunny!

rotary turbo club reppin!

[Glides]

but i digress, i could care less if im wrong or right , its an engine, they all break eventually anyway lol

Here I fixed that for ya, since you work on cars and all.

[Elbow]

Looking good! I want a ride when it's finished, I remember I drove it that one time like right after you got it, I loved it then too!

[Glides]

Update in first post. My luck car almost done aaaaand time to rebuild the engine so project goes on. Car still idels perfect when coolant is low so apex/corner seals still must be good, but after i top off the coolant it starts flowing in from where it has probably cracked. Could be a hose or vavle...who knows till some Rotary gurus get their hands on it.

Sounds like you have bad Coolant Bypass o-rings. When you ride along, it runs fine i'm guessing but when you turn the car off, does it leak coolant into the motor causing a nice cloud of smoke when you start it up?

That's what mine did. Had a Pettit motor in it and it was still womping folks even with that problem. I ran mine for about 4 more months, I put a pressure relief radiator cap on it and just bled off the pressure when I got done driving it. It will get worse though. I tried everything. Nothing worked and I swapped the motor. Once they go, they are gone. Engine has to come apart.

Not sure if you need anything for it, but I have some parts laying around. A/C compressor and I think the lines are on it. I have a stock set of springs and the front bumper support with the foam piece that sits on it to keep the cover from sagging. If you need any of it, let me know. It's just languishing in my storage bin. Just give me a PM and they are yours.

[UpSideDownDesi]

Is the coolant bubbling? Have you got all the air out of the cooling system? FDs are not as easy to get air out of the cooling system as it was on FCs. If all the air is out of the cooling system, you could have a bad coolant seal.

Sounds like you have bad Coolant Bypass o-rings. When you ride along, it runs fine i'm guessing but when you turn the car off, does it leak coolant into the motor causing a nice cloud of smoke when you start it up?

That's what mine did. Had a Pettit motor in it and it was still womping folks even with that problem. I ran mine for about 4 more months, I put a pressure relief radiator cap on it and just bled off the pressure when I got done driving it. It will get worse though. I tried everything. Nothing worked and I swapped the motor. Once they go, they are gone. Engine has to come apart.

This is what happened:
I dropped the car off in August, it was running fine. I went to pick it up day before yesterday. Upon cranking up butt loads of smoke out of exhaust (moisture, which is kind of normal for FD’s after sitting for day or so) after 30 secs car shut off by itself. Instead of trying to crank it, I went straight to check oil. I pulled the dip stick and instantly it started foaming out of it (milkshake thickness). I thought it was just bad case of moisture build up so went and picked up 20 quarts of oil to do flushes.

Initial drain was thick gunk like sticky texture, took almost 2 hours to drain and still not all of it was out. I put new oil in with some seafoam (3 quarts since there was still some gunky/foamy stuff in there). It cranked back up again, smoke out of exhaust again, but not as much. Car ran for about 2-3 mins with coolant warning on, oil pressure was high then killed itself again, pulled dip stick, and it was till foaming but not as bad, getting better. Drained it again, it still came out foamy, but lot thinner. In went another 4 quarts, car started to idle PERFECT, coolant light warning still on. I ignored it since my overflow tank goes low (has a leak) and sensor throws the warning sometimes. So with coolant warning on car was idling good, oil pressure down to normal, but still had moisture in the motor. I pulled dip stick, and STEAM, loads of it. I was keeping eye on gauges, and started to see coolant needle go up. I killed it, drained oil again, and it came out lot better, no more foam, but still had moisture in it. So I put in another 4.5 quarts, cranked it back up, oil pressure was normal, no more smoke out of exhaust, very small amount of steam coming out of dip stick . Coolant warning came on, I killed the car. Looked in the reservoir, it was low on coolant, got couple of gallons of water, and started pouring. It took in about gallon and was still taking it. I saw good bit of oil came up . I started the car back up, ran good for about 20-30 secs and BAM foaming again. Then I knew water is going straight in the engine. Either coolant seals are done; some valve/hose/o-ring has malfunctioned. I ended my night at 4:30am and went back home.

[Boosted FC]

Yep, sounds like coolant seals.

[Vteckidd]

now you got 2 busted cars, i guess that FD is about as worthless as my RX8 now huh?

I thought this was sposed to be a REAL FD, i mean you talked it up like it was gods gift to rotaries, but apparently, it was a POS that youve had to put tons of time and money into. I mean 2 months for a factory paint job? is that because you didnt have the money to put down , at least thats what you said in the other thread.

Paybacks a bitch isnt it.

GODS CHARIOT> FDs

[Boosted FC]

now you got 2 busted cars, i guess that FD is about as worthless as my RX8 now huh?

I thought this was sposed to be a REAL FD, i mean you talked it up like it was gods gift to rotaries, but apparently, it was a POS that youve had to put tons of time and money into. I mean 2 months for a factory paint job? is that because you didnt have the money to put down , at least thats what you said in the other thread.

Paybacks a bitch isnt it.

GODS CHARIOT> FDs

Fucking Mike....

[UpSideDownDesi]

now you got 2 busted cars, i guess that FD is about as worthless as my RX8 now huh?

I thought this was sposed to be a REAL FD, i mean you talked it up like it was gods gift to rotaries, but apparently, it was a POS that youve had to put tons of time and money into. I mean 2 months for a factory paint job? is that because you didnt have the money to put down , at least thats what you said in the other thread.

Paybacks a bitch isnt it.

GODS CHARIOT> FDs

No as it sits, it's still worth more than your God's Chariot CRX, and POS RX-8 together. WRX is whole another ball game; i can sell the swap for more than either of your cars . Call WagonWerks up and ask them how much it is for OEM quality paint with other goodies. Show me where i said i don't have money to put down? I never did Mr. I make up things. I said it was fishy, but shop assured me. Ask them why it took so long. Mr. I know it all, parts for FD's aren't in stock like RX-8. It take month and half for some parts to come in from japan...even the exterior trim pieces .

It was a POS that i am resotring....hard to understand?

Try again, you make me LOL so hard.

[Vteckidd]

Kbb on my rx8 $13500
your fd is worth $14000 tops with a good motor. Right now it's barely worth $7000 maybe $8000

my crx is worth $7000-8000

your wrx with it's problems prob isn't worth much more than $10000 with it's problems

get a car that works before you assess it's value

[UpSideDownDesi]

Kbb on my rx8 $13500
your fd is worth $14000 tops with a good motor. Right now it's barely worth $7000 maybe $8000

my crx is worth $7000-8000

your wrx with it's problems prob isn't worth much more than $10000 with it's problems

get a car that works before you assess it's value

YOUR busted RX-8 Mr. not kbb for a good one. "get a car that works before you assess it's value", practice what you preach. You try so hard.

Still sucks for you that my 14 year old FD in good working condition is worth WAY more and worth the same as it sits as your 5 year old RX-8 "working". I can easily yank $11-13 grand for the FD right now if i sell it. Beat up shells go for $6-7k.

My WRX has a boost leak and needs retune or current map check, rest is perfcetly fine. $10k for my WRX and $14k for FD working good, boy you live under a rock.

Find me a FD with 29k org miles, PERFECT condition for $14k , and WRX with 28k org miles with as much stuff as mine for $10k. "I'll give you $100"...for each. You won't find any .

Try again

[JITB]

i think u all should play big bank take little bank

[Vteckidd]

I just got paid $13500 for my rx8 , your car had a blown motor lol

wrx might be worth more but that just means you'll cry more when a pos crx drags yu down the street Baghdad style

[speedminded]

No as it sits, it's still worth more than your God's Chariot CRX, and POS RX-8 together. WRX is whole another ball game; i can sell the swap for more than either of your cars . Call WagonWerks up and ask them how much it is for OEM quality paint with other goodies. Show me where i said i don't have money to put down? I never did Mr. I make up things. I said it was fishy, but shop assured me. Ask them why it took so long. Mr. I know it all, parts for FD's aren't in stock like RX-8. It take month and half for some parts to come in from japan...even the exterior trim pieces .

It was a POS that i am resotring....hard to understand?

Try again, you make me LOL so hard.

"You know what? This will decimate all... after we put about fifteen grand or more under the hood. If we have to, overnight some parts from Japan."

[Vteckidd]

i think u all should play big bank take little bank

He'd lose I doubt he owns either car outright

[Vteckidd]

I just thougt is be an asshole in his thread since he was in mine.

FYI a restored car is NEVER worth as much as an original. My uncles is a 30k mile all original fd and he had check in hand for $22000 with two others buyers willing to pay more. He decided to keep it.

Your car while it may look good if you disclose it's a respray and now a rebuilt motor it never fetch that price. It's worth $14000-$15000 to a collector

[David88vert]

I sold my 160K mile FD that wasn't all that clean for $12K, and it sold within a week. Clean FDs can easily get $20K+ all day long.

[UpSideDownDesi]

I just got paid $13500 for my rx8 , your car had a blown motor lol

wrx might be worth more but that just means you'll cry more when a pos crx drags yu down the street Baghdad style

I know a guy who sold his FD with blown motor, 60,xxx on car for close to $11,000. Beat up FD shell got sold here for $6k with 80k miles earlier this year..Go figure.

Yup like wrong on most things u r wrong on WRX price, and nice cover up.

"drags you", remember the words u say. I waitng myself for the day to see you ride out on ur Donkey, Shrek Style. (BTW get your Geography rite)

[UpSideDownDesi]

He'd lose I doubt he owns either car outright

All the cars i own, title in hand. That means owned outright.

Try again

I just thougt is be an asshole in his thread since he was in mine.

FYI a restored car is NEVER worth as much as an original. My uncles is a 30k mile all original fd and he had check in hand for $22000 with two others buyers willing to pay more. He decided to keep it.

Your car while it may look good if you disclose it's a respray and now a rebuilt motor it never fetch that price. It's worth $14000-$15000 to a collector

Like you never came in my thread (Midnight Cruise *ding ding ding*) or anyone elses and started talking shit for no reason . I think you are the only one here.

Replacing Apex seals, coolant seals, corner seals, springs, gaskets. I am refreshing the motor, it isn't blown, Coolant seal gave in. Anyone who buys it will actually be happy to know they got changed so dont' have to worry about them.

I was getting $15k for it with messed up paint, engine not serviced, and torn seat. I kept it too.