Please look or listen to any of b@d @pple's builds and tell me it "brings the fail"
I'm sorry to say but if you answer honestly, the answer is NO.
What is tuning a box too high, and tuning too low?
And how am I wrong about a 5x7 sounding like a 5x7, and a 10 sounding like a ten? You might have misinterpreted my previous post. When I put a 12'' sub in my car, it is going to sound like a 12'' sub. It will vary in spl and frequency response depending on it's enclosure. We could honestly bring physics into the equation to show that a woofer is doing the same amount of work, no matter what enclosure it is in.
Most people think ported is way louder than sealed. In reality, if you took the average SPL through a range of frequencies, 20hz-80hz, sealed might be louder in that case. Ported boxes usually contain a strong peak which cause most listeners to think of as louder.
I have been into this shit for about two years. I guess that means you're more than 5 times more experienced and knowledgeable than I am, right? That being said, I am not trying to say I am "smarter" than you or anything, I am just not sure why we have to justify out knowledge through "x" amount of years.
what is tuning a box too high or too low?..well its relative depending on the woofer..if you send 1000 watts to a woofer in a ported enclosure tuned at 30 hertz,some woofers might not perform the way they would at 38 hertz,or 45 hertz..every woofer has their own footprint and an enclosure where they are the most efficient and perform the greatest..you could have a port volume that is too large or too small(port tune) and make your woofer completely useless..im not saying that every box,every size,every port is "wrong" for every sub..im simply saying each woofer has a box or a port that they perform the absolute best in.any wrong calculation in box size or port length or overall port volume can make or "break" a woofer physically or audibly
To expand, All subs have a natural Frequency at which they are most efficient. If a port is tuned above that frequency (too short) or below that frequency (too long) it wont be as effecient as tuning the port to that woofer's optimal tuning frequency.
As far as port area (size of opening), this is tuned to the box not the woofer (in most cases). Generally, optimal port area should be calculated (roughly) at 15-16 sq inches for each cubic foot of net box volume. Some woofers can vary a bit from these numbers, but generally, when using this formula you get a tuned ported box that has a wide frequency response from high pass cutoff to low pass rolloff.
When a ported box is tuned properly, it is ALWAYS louder than a sealed box. That said, the comment about across frequency range the summed SPL of a sealed box would be technically louder, which is great, but show me one competition series that rates SPL across the frequency range. The Ported boxes that beat hard at one frequency and then suck on the rest are the prefab, Best buy special boxes. these are made to pound at (give or take) 40hz, which is where most hip hop songs play. A truly tuned ported box with the right matched sub or subs will beat across any USEABLE frequency range (30hz- about 50-60 hz). Not trying to argue with anyone, just throwing out some facts.
As far as Bad Apples work, dude does sick shit. Thats coming from another Shop owner with 15+ years experience in the industry.
Colin
AW
I have sat in your SC300, if that is what your asking. I think there was a pair of dd 8s, vibe 3 way components, handful of vibe amps, and premier double din.
They didn't really compare to anything I have heard(single 12'') but I think it was cause it was in a trunk.
I have no doubt in my mind that a dd8 will out perform 12s out there. Just didn't really surprise me. I think they might have been in a truck box and that is probably why they didn't blow my mind.
Last edited by AV8ter; 02-19-2010 at 09:48 AM.
My first real sub in my car was a RE8(I know I am an RE whore haha, I am trying to branch out). Blew my mind all the time. Never got the chance to meter it though. Not louder than my SE12 on close to the same power, but that is understandable.
Kevin
i have 3 old jl 8w3s in my s2k..24 inches of cone area
I might also add that usually "tuning" goes along with the enclosure size, the woofer going into that box will change how I would tune the box. Also the car it is going into can change the tuning, where at in the vehicle the box is placed in the vehicle can change the tuning. Also one of the more important variables is the goal you are going for. I have had some people want a box that can get as loud as possible and do not mind if it is boomy or sloppy to achieve it, and then there are people that are the opposite and will sacrifice output for a flatter response. I have even built boxes that were 15 cubic feet with a port opening so large that you can climb into the box, and believe me it was such a "one note wander" it is not even funny, but that is what the person wanted. There is so much you can do with the enclosure and port to alter the sound of ANY speaker to make it sound a particular way to fit a person's desired sound, and while a lot of times a manufacturers suggested box is great it is not always what the customer wants, which doesnt mean any are wrong, as long as the customer "or person" with the box likes it and thinks that it sounds good "to their liking", and does what it was asked to do from the beginning, and not allow the speaker to be torn to shreds, then it is right.
On a side note a little too late now but hey whatever, $200 for a properly built and tuned TL box is stupid cheap.
Now why A simple question of is RE audio any good turned into a 5 page debate is beyond me, but I do know I have seen and read just in this thread alone at least 5 professionals with roughly at LEAST 10 years experience EACH try to educate others on our "opinions" and knowledge we have all learned throughout the years, and while some of us may have different opinions of what sounds good to our personal tastes or likings I would assume that if anyone came to any of us professionals and talked with us about what YOU want, then chances are I am sure we could all make you happy, and get you there, so there is a reason we are "professionals", and our prices are so not the cheap ass price of FREE that you get from forum trolling. Now dont get me wrong while I can not speak for everyone I do not mind trying to help people out on here or any other forums and give my opinion, and I would assume most of the other pros dont either, but when argued with that we are wrong or do not know what we are doing it makes helping others pretty difficult.
While I understand what you are saying that a 10 sounds like a 10 is true because hey it is a 10 and not a 5 X 7 or whatever, I am sure everyone on here knows what was meant to be the understanding of that statement, which is that someone "like badapple" who knows what they are doing can make lower end equipment sound better than higher end equipment installed by someone who doesnt know what they are doing.
And oh yeah that Scion TC referred to earlier I built the box for that car, when it was in the original car that sub could keep up with and sound good while playing metal "again only an opinion of mine", and furthermore like someone else stated at that competition it was in another vehicle than the one the shop built and wired wrong from where the customer tried to do it them self, and the customer only had one voice coil wired up. So when it was only a couple DB quieter than you it was only running on one coil and obviously half power (750 watts +/-), so I would have to say I wouldn't bash on Memphis too hard there.
I am sorry for rambling on and hope not to offend anyone, but really when people ask for help or advice and you see a professional trying to help someone else out, you should probably let them
Unbelievable still trying to correct someone else's math. yes you are right 3 8" woofers is not 24" of cone area, however I am trying to figure out where you got your numbers from. To figure out surface area of a circle you do pie X r sq. r=radius =half the diameter, half of 8" (not counting screws and surround) is 4, 4 sq = 16 X 3.14(pie)=50.24X3(woofers)=150.72,, where do you get 474??
Shit, my bad. The irony of me posting that while I was sitting in math class lol. I fucked up the equation lol, but yeah that is what I was trying to get at.
i was more or less just saying i like 8s in multiples
I know everything about everything. Just as I knew that info would be relevant to this thread.
I just picked up me SE series subs I will let you guys know what I think of them. I am taking out interfire pro-v subs and switching to RE. I have 7.2 cubes plus port. I think that it will hit ok.
this is going in my 92 burban
4 RE se 12's
2 powerbass 3000 mono blocks
300 amp alternator
1 yellow top under the hood
2 red tops in the back
30 farad for voltage reading only
it should do something I am going to ditch the optimas and go with an excess power here soon. We will see though I have to bracket for dual alt. set up but I am uncertain if running two different voltage alts will hurt anything I am looking into that now.
www.mountainboost.com
i just wasted 15 minutes of my life. we have 3 professionals that have done this for over 10 years and have built some kick ass sound systems. and a 18 year old fuck nut that thinks he is knowledgeable about anything car audio related. unbelievable!!!
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yea you and whoever else thinks they have a lot of knowledge about car audio because they take a interest in it and researched the forums for the last 2 years.
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lol most of those who have "Researched" the forums for the past 2 years probably have more knowledge on product design, specs, installation tips tricks and know how than you do lol. I think its funny, that you feel it necessary to talk trash in a car audio thread about people who talk about car audio. grow up.
about the guy asking about running different voltage alts, yes it will destroy them, now running different amp alts idk. but I'd assume if you do not hook up the two alts to a common battery bank it shouldn't be a problem. say a 130 amp alt on your front battery, and take the power wire you ran to the back batteries and hook it up to the charging stud on the 300 amp alt. so that the front battery gets charged by the oem alt. and the car audio batts get charged by the 300 amp alt. as long as the two alts do not share any batteries. ie front to back batteries you will be fine. like wise on the voltage difference's too. if you run 16 volt batteries in back, and run a 16 volt alt. run an oem beside it. and hook 16 volt alt to those 16 volt batts and nothing else. and oem to stock front battery.
Mods- High flow cat, Flowmaster stage 2 exhaust, Intake, Lots of wiring upgrades, h/o alt, 2 18's walled, off 8000 rms custom interior VERY LOUD (152.3) on music and a 156.6 outlaw.( system sounds alot like this!!!
^^^^ alright car audio fan! from all the people on import atlanta your opinion is the last one i give a fuck about. you have no clue who i am, what i do, what i have done, or the people who taught me how to do it. i never came on here and said i know more. honestly i don't give a fuck, the questions you dumb fucks ask entertain me thats why i feel the need to put in my two cents and make fun of you. half of you are running the wall mart special and are worried about what kind of capacitors, how many batteries and how big of an alternator you need to have because the lights in your 1992 honda civic or chevy trail blazer go dim. seriously!!!!!!!! some on here know im knowledgeable to a extent and i help people that ask legitimate questions and are looking for real answers. Now if you will excuse me i have to go hook up my home theater system to my car for the up coming SQ competition. some one on here told me thats the way to go if you want to get some real point! What do you think?????
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I will say that Sina knows his shit and has helped me on more than a few occasions while I was still playing with audio.
^^^ here ill help you. go do some research..
http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/
http://www.fiberglassforums.com/
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/
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Thanks jimmy but I like everyone else didn't know shit 6 years ago, and still to this day don't know a whole lot i just know basics. But people like Justin Marks and John Marsh and Mike Bailey were the people who taught me what i know and instead of thinking i know better than them i listened to them. Justin probably more than everyone else because he made me get hands on even though i was scared as shit. so it just annoys me when people come on here and ask a question and somebody like justin or john or mike shares there years of knowledge and experience that they have and some one else with a third of the knowledge comes and says "no your wrong". I mean, the kid is trying to convince ppl that home audio is ideal for a SQ car, and then wonders why a person like john marsh who is a multiple SQ champion in a ultimate class disagrees with them.
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Is this directed towards me? I am pretty sure I didn't say anything of the sort but If I did then I'll eat my words. Seriously, If that is directed towards me, then I really want you to back it up.
Go back and look through the thread. It started out as a simple question about RE audio. I shared MY experience with them. I did not claim for them to be the best, or even a contender for sq or spl competitions. Some other people did say they are "the best" and "zomg XXX" and what not.
I never said anyone was "wrong", so thanks for putting words in my mouth.
And yes, I do spend a lot of time(probably too much lol) fucking around on car audio forums. Whats the big deal? There is shit to learn from people all over the world. There is also no better place to find the old used equipment that you're looking for. I am always skeptical of everything I read online and I do contain my own opinions about everything. It is no different then all of us car guys being on IA. I just join them to see what else is out there and to get help with products directly from the manufacture when needed. I have still been to most of the shops in the area to see what is going on locally.
Trust me when I say that if I had the money to have the guys at American Radio work on my car, I would not hesitate to. I have met all of them over there with the exception of scott p. Great guys, awesome shop with honestly good prices on equipment. I always support them when I need my shit. About a month ago I had my friend run up to American Radio looking for two specialty cables for some older Alpine headunits and John didn't have them in stock at the moment. Needless to say that he had them the very next morning and I got a phone call letting me know about it.
In the end I really don't even remember what we are arguing about anymore. I tried to keep my nose out of this thread but your direct attack on me pulled me back in.
Kevin
its funny your defense was that we know nothing of your knowledge, yet you assume ours. LOL. i think that if you really want to talk. one day face to face we can, and then ur E-Thug-ness wont matter lol. I know what I need to to do what I want my systems to do
Mods- High flow cat, Flowmaster stage 2 exhaust, Intake, Lots of wiring upgrades, h/o alt, 2 18's walled, off 8000 rms custom interior VERY LOUD (152.3) on music and a 156.6 outlaw.( system sounds alot like this!!!
^^^^ you want to talk face to face oh yea?????????? are you that butt hurt about the situation?, trust me you don't want to talk to me face to face im not a pleasant person. i am probably more nice on the internet then i ever would be standing in front of you.
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