I have a question for those audio experts. I was wondering if anything bad would happen if i put lets say 800w subs to a 1100w amp. Would it just use 800w's to power the subs or what???
I have a question for those audio experts. I was wondering if anything bad would happen if i put lets say 800w subs to a 1100w amp. Would it just use 800w's to power the subs or what???
bump
you'll be fine. you said 800 watt subs. so im guessing you are going to run 2 subs , so just take 1100 and divide that by 2 and each sub will using up 550 watts.
if you want a better answers, you need to give the RMS watts of the subs and OHMS and the RMS Watts of the amp
To correctly answer this, we would need to know the exact rms rating of both the subs and the amp. We would also need to know how you have it wired to the amp.
Whatever the amp is putting out, you divide that by the amount of subs you have the amp running. Then that is the power each sub will receive. You have to go by RMS wattage though, the max power rating does not mean anything.
Well i know that the subs are JL Audio 10W3-D4, they are the older ones, from 2003 or something.
what about the amp?
whats the rms of the amp...not peak power
house of turbo subarus...its all we'll drive
when i find out ill tell you
I would also be interested to know the ratings on the fuses....
With that info, we can get a better idea of what the amp will REALLY do.
Im tired of seeing amps with 2400 watts printed on it, and it only has a 40-amp fuse in it, and people thinking they actually have 2400 watts. No gonna happen.
Amen.....Originally Posted by MusicManG3
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CEA ratings tried to fix that. When will it be a standard? I second the fuse rating.
CEA 2006 is only voluntary and I try to only use products that are rated under CEA standards. Maybe if more people did so it will become more widely used.
i found the specs on the 10w3-d4, and it said that the speaker has 250watts continuous power handling, so i was wondering what would be a cheaper, but pretty good amp for 2 of them.
For people that want quality at a budget price, I normally suggest Quantum Audio. They are made by DB Drive. They are measured at 14.4volts and will put out the rated power. Here are a couple of their amps that will work for you...Originally Posted by xXx_Si
1) QA2160 - $100 - 2x160rms @ 4ohms, 2x320rms @ 2ohms, 1x640rms @ 4ohms Bridged
2) QSA2150 - $90 - 2x150rms @ 4ohms, 2x300rms @ 2ohms, 1x600rms @ 4ohms Bridged
Another good budget amp is Profile. Here is a couple of models for you...
1) HA1000 - $100 - 2x160rms @ 4ohms, 2x240rms @ 2ohms, 1x480rms @ 4ohms Bridged
What about this one, http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...OV4-1200.html#, i had a power acoustik gothic series amp back in 06 and it was really nice. And also, would i need a capacitor, or is it not that powerful.
capacitors are a waste, so is that amp
house of turbo subarus...its all we'll drive
if its one sub its more than enough anyways those ratings are peak power only it the amps rms power is higher than the subs rms power dont turn the amp all the way up or itll burn the sub up
Stay far away from Power Acoustic. Dirty power will blow your subs faster than too much clean power. Those Quantum amps are good for their money, and Ive always been a fan of US amps. They have a budget line that is still pretty good. Not as good as their old school stuff but not as expensive either. If you really want good quality the rule still applies today that applied back in the days of the real good brands. Expect to pay $1.00 or more per watt for quality power.