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Thread: audiophile seeks decent set up

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  1. #1
    Proud to be Retrosexual Jaimecbr900's Avatar
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    I'm with Red on this one. Not all amps are created equal.

    If it's fidelity you're after, it's expensive. If you can hang with that, then there are a few components that could easily be suggested. I'm personally biased towards Diamond Audio stuff because it's the best stuff I've personally used. I know there are a handfull of others that also have very very strong reps of being on top of the food chain as far as fidelity goes.

    First you should establish a budget. Second, you should establish a priority list (do you want to give up room, are you willing to make upgrades to your electrical system, do you want super clean install, etc.). And finally, you should understand that there will ALWAYS be a trade-off when you do this.

    Fidelity is much more difficult to obtain than raw SPL. You get a big box, big power, and you have high spl. High SPL is not the same as high fidelity. For high fidelity you will need clean amps, clean components, and clean install. All that adds up to $ any way you slice it. Assuming by your statements, self install is going to be out of the question. If so, then you will have to factor in for probably the most expensive part of the project; Labor. If you get fancy, custom work is even more expensive.

    Moral of the story is that the rule of thumb is usually going to be; the more high fidelity you want, the more it's gonna cost. SpL is cheaper to get (for the street) but is not fidelity. For what it sounds you want, you'll probably need atleast a good HU, clean 4 ch amp, 1 sub, 1 set of components. What brand those things are is totally dependent on your budget. It could be $1000 or it could be $5000.

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    Senior Member redgst97's Avatar
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    A cheap 5-600 watt amp is not 400 watts under typical use. POSSIBLY if loaded down to 1 ohm, at 14.4 volts, at a certain frequency with high distortion. The original question was about recomendations for an "audiophile".

    I too have mostly Diamond Audio in my Eclipse, and would high suggest taking a listen for yourself. The high end stuff is amazing...pricy, but well worth every penny!

    However, do not forget to budget for the accessories and install. Good RCA cables are NOT found at Radio Shack for $2.95. Large pieces of metal vibrate. Vibrations are NOT good to a sound quality set up... I would guess I have over $2000 in sound dampng in my car. Dynamat is your friend! Thats BEFORE the equipment and install.

    Again, with a good high voltage head unit, a good set of 5.25 or 6.5 components, a (10 or 12") woofer, and a good 4-channel amp, you will be well on your way. Put the midbass speaker in the door (or kick panel if the budget is ther) and the tweeter in the a-pillar (budget for it). the 4-channel amp will run the front speakers, as well as the woofer. You might want to think about an EQ, but that can come later. Decent wire and cables would be needed. Also some sound damping...at least in targeted areas...

    Tailor the system for your personal preferences. I personally like a 3-way front stage. I have tweets, 5.25 mid-range, and 8" midbass speakers in my car. I cannot find a 5.25 speaker that will play low enough to handle the mid-bass I like, and I cannot find a 6.5 speaker to hadle the female vocals. Sit in my Eclipse, and thats all you hear...tweets, 5.25s and a pair of 8s. I put in as much amplifer (GOOD AMP) power as I could. This gives the "headroom" that is necessary in properly recoded music. The music is more "dynamic".

    Just my thoughts and $0.02

    John

    2007, 2008, & 2009 IASCA National SQi Champion Pro Ultimate
    Total of 5 National Sound Quality Championships.

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    Quote Originally Posted by redgst97
    A cheap 5-600 watt amp is not 400 watts under typical use. POSSIBLY if loaded down to 1 ohm, at 14.4 volts, at a certain frequency with high distortion. The original question was about recomendations for an "audiophile".


    John
    I wish I could run 14.4 volts, i have a yellow-top and im still at high 13's, not to post whore or anything, but are you running 14.4???


    As for the audiophile, if i were you, assuming you're just looking for a clean sound, I'd get some infinity coaxials, 2 or 3 way, prolly run you about 80 bucks max, get some pioneer or polk 3 way 6x9's for the rear, a 4 channel 400 watt amp (they're a dime a dozen), and a kenwood, or a pioneer head unit. If you're not craving that bass then dont worry about a sub. A crisp clean sound counts for so much more man. especially on a budget, I'm guessing you can be out the door for under $600 bucks. good luck...

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    Quote Originally Posted by redgst97
    The original question was about recomendations for an "audiophile".
    i mistook the question then, instead of taking it as an "sqphile"

    btw, red knows his shit inside and out.. im just hoping one day to be that knowledgeable.
    Last edited by accented; 03-25-2005 at 05:01 PM.
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    Senior Member redgst97's Avatar
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    Code3:
    With the car running, "most" cars will be at 14.1 - 14.5 volts...somewhere in that range. You also have to think...the car came with an alternator large enough to run the factory options...NOT an aftermarket stereo. A "basic" can pull 15-25 amps with no problem. Some factory alternators are only 50 amps....some 65. Stereo + headlights + ac = Not enough juice. Most alternators are rated at a certain temperature at a certain RPM. For example, an alternator will typically put out the most at 1800-2000 RPMs when it is warm...

    I do have a custom built alternator with a variable external votage regulator. That helps a bit....

    If you are running at less than 14 volts with the car running, then there might be a problem somewhere.... Check the voltage at the alternator, at the battery, at the fuse box. Try a few places that have power. See if there are any diferences. This might lead to the problem.

    Honestly, I would steer away from rear speakers...especially oval speakers. Think of a concert (live music)....where is the band? IN FRONT of you...not behind you. Sound Quality and rear speaks (most of the time) do not go together. Personally, I have a problem with trying to produce a linear sound from a non-linear object. Meaning...you cant do it well from an oval speaker. Thats just my experience. I can't stress it enough....for good sound, you HAVE to have a subwoofer. 1 10" can do it (maybe even a single 8") with 150 watts....but it has to be there.

    Accented:
    Thanks for the props. I got into car stereo my senoir year of high school (nearly 15 years ago), and have been at it ever since. There is always more to learn....

    Glad to help and throw out ideas when I can.

    John
    Last edited by redgst97; 03-25-2005 at 08:53 PM.

    2007, 2008, & 2009 IASCA National SQi Champion Pro Ultimate
    Total of 5 National Sound Quality Championships.

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