well like the title says, i have a 96 civic with a b16a swap and a turbonetics t3/t4 and the engine has about 89-90,000 miles, i have been using high mile synthetic but someone told me not to use that. so any info will help.
well like the title says, i have a 96 civic with a b16a swap and a turbonetics t3/t4 and the engine has about 89-90,000 miles, i have been using high mile synthetic but someone told me not to use that. so any info will help.
Castrol GTX 10w-30
You know better; next time will be a ban.
haha its not so much what kind of oil, just get anything good.... just check it regularly... if ur boostin on the regular its good to let 3k be the MAX you go between changes... and change it when needed too... just check the oil.
so the high mile oil will not hurt anything, its valvaline synthetic 10w30.
valvoline, castrol, anything as long as its reputable! check it all the time and change it all the time!
Valvoline, castrol, or mobil syn at any store
To go hardcore, get Royal Purple from pep boys... I love that stuff.
i personally like and use castrol syntec.
like everyone said...check it often.
i would recommend full syn though just from a standpoint that it won't burn or coke in the turbo as easily as regular oils.
MAINSTREAM PERFORMANCE & DIGITAL BOX TUNING
ECU CHIPPING/SOCKETING/TUNING-HONDATA, CROME, BRE, TURBOEDIT
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MITSUBISHI AND SUBARU TUNING AVAILABLE!
i change my oil whenver i see a difference in oil pressure (around 2k miles +)
i use penzoil, NON synthetic, i have used countless oils on the other motors i have had in the car, and none of them have seemed to fair as well to the wear and tear of boost, especially during the break in periods.
although i will be switing to amsoil due to their add-packs being sufficient and the synthesized molecules dealing with the superheating better.
check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ and search through, that way you can get a better understanding of the minerals in oil, the ash deposits and such like that, get whats right for you!
Silkolene, hands down
ok but should i quit using high mile anything?
x2Originally Posted by Five*Star*
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royal purple? thats almost as bad as mobil1.. lol
amsoil FTW
Listen to this guy, since I noticed noone actually gave any worthwhile suggestion except for mrt0mjones.Originally Posted by mrt0mjones
BoostedB16, do research on the bobistheoilguy.com, it will take a long time, but you will learn alot. I personally run 5-40 M1 or 5-30 M1 if i cant find 5-40 in my cars. If you dont care about researching it out, just get any group 4 or group 5 oil.
Royal purple10w-30, change it every two months
20-50 ftw!!!
Hella stock member!
Yeah 20-50 synthetic, i run 10x-30 mobile 1 and one quart of 20w-50 to even things out but im running na
AMSOIL is the way to go filter and oil but still change it every 3000 miles religiously like a priest that is the only way to keep from having to rebuild that turbo every 10000 miles and always always always check your levels every time you get gas or even every morning when you get in your car turbos are tempermental a one quart drop could make you blow seals I have done it before but I have run many oils and synthetic definatly but I choose amsoil
Triple Threat Motorsports RULES the Huntsville Streets no one is faster and if you would like to think you are BRING IT ON!!!
I run valvoline 20w50 in my high power motors. Non synthetic.
Royal purple would be what i used IF i did use synthetic, IF you read on the processes and how their shit is "made" its bad ass.
www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
Daily D: 2007 Dodge 2500 MEGA CAB, Cummins Turbo Diesel
here is an interesting article of people on Jag forums wanted to know which oil holds up.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
for more specific information on oils and what it does, plus they have a great forum
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
castrol syntec 5w-50, its the best for boost.
95 ej1--------536whp at 20psi on race gas!![]()
96 db7-------DD.
95 eg1-------Sold
94 dc2-------totalled
94 dsm------donated to charity!!!
WE RUN THEM BABY TURBOS AND BIG MANIFOLDS!!!!
Who cares what oil lasts the longest? You should be changing it long before that. :-)
Here is everything you really need to know about oil. Have fun reading.....
http://mrmazda.no-ip.com/cfaqmenu.html#ENGINEOIL
We rotary guys live for these oil discussions as choosing the right oil and following the right procedures determines when you are going to face a rebuild. :-)
ExactlyOriginally Posted by David88vert
I run Mobil 1, 10W40 for my turbo D, and for it's tranny
here's the deal:
if you live in the northern states, then 5W30
if you live in the southern states, then 10W40
if you live in the middle states, then move either to the north or to the southor run 10W30
i run 10w40, i have been using valvaline high mile oil.
Best post in this thread. Rep for j00.Originally Posted by mrt0mjones
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--RIP Leisa. Forever In Our Hearts--
--Val for President 1979-2007--
--RIP Val, You will be missed--
Originally Posted by HalfBaked
try royal purple.. race proven and shit.. blah blah.. but it really is good shit mayn.. o'reillys carries it..
there i did it.. what'd you think?
crisco
"I remember the first time I had sex – I kept the receipt."
An oil that i reccomend that has been proven to me on a 800Whp stealth (awd-tt)
Amsoil , i need to ask him what weight it was, i think it was on the side of 0w-30.
pretained a high pressure on cold startups, and had some awesome add-packing to it.
he ended up bending some rods, and breaking #3, his crank was also bent. The Crazy part was, none of his journals were Showing any signs of scarring. Which if you think about the twisting forces that were applied during the breaking/bending of the rods, thats almost unbelievable.
oil that contain its viscosity is a great thing. Plus after some hard running the amsoil, while breakdown will gain viscosity on the top end, so a harsh-using of amsoil will go from a 30 weight to a 40, just so you have extra cushion from the wear and heat, enough to say HEY! CHANGE YOUR OIL, GET THIS DIRT OUTTA HERE!
-FILTRATION!!!-
If your serious about filtration and oiling issues, you should check out
http://www.cmfilters.com/
read up on the oil filters (spin-on), i've run a canton and i love taking it apart to see the residue that it gets before it gets sent through my oil cooler and such. Non-bypass is the way to go.
(100 bucks for the filter, yet the elements are 15 bucks. so heck yea, its worth it if you love your car!)
Well, thats my .02 hope some of that helped out a little guys.
Well, I'm gonna throw a good website that people could read about oil and lubrication as well
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
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i really hope your joking...Originally Posted by miro_gt
i kinda listed that oh.. 9 posts ago.
we usually use castro 20w50 and on days we know will be hot we'll use lucas oil additive.
some may think its thick but it helped keep peters motors together in 2004 when he blew 2 oil pumps and i had to tow his civic home with my D15 hatch lol.
oh and its also being used in the 900+whp integra too
94 Supra= 500rwhp
I wasn't joking. I just didn't see that posted above I guessOriginally Posted by mrt0mjones
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REPOST.Originally Posted by miro_gt
--RIP Leisa. Forever In Our Hearts--
--Val for President 1979-2007--
--RIP Val, You will be missed--
Originally Posted by HalfBaked
damn you can really run oil that thick.Originally Posted by 93H22ACX