Quote Originally Posted by bjaccord
Well, I'm not here to argue, I guess if you feel that the g23 motor is just so difficult then we simply have different levels of mechanical capabilities and knowledge I guess.

I am actually not really a fan of them (The 2.3 vtec combo's) Not in my car atleast. They do seem to have more problems, but I have seen some great results from them as well. Aside from your example there have been a few (That I know of, so odds are there are more) that have went over 300whp with stock internals.

I'm not defending them, or trying to talk people into them, just looking at both sides of the topic.

I already have a boosted h23 in my car, and it's doing very well, I don't over rev it at all and it's been taking 8 psi for years, and is tuned to 10 for at the track (And at 10 aproaching the 300whp mark) and 100% stock (It even took a 25psi spike the other day when the bolt backed out of the boost/vacuum reference port on the wastegate)

Anyway, I'm working on building another block right now to use in the future and have been trying to source an h22 crank to use to essentialy build me an h22 with an h23 block code on the outside.

If this guy wanted to do the same, with a built motor for n/a it would be the same, use his h23 block (Identical in every way to the h22 block), get the h22 crank, buy your aftermarket rods and pistons (For the h22, and at h22 prices) and have him a built h22 bottom end, then it would be up to him on what head to use (Obviously if he's going n/a the ONLY choice is the h22/f20b heads if he wants to make good power.

He wouldn't have to go through the original purchase price of an h22 (Lets just say 1000 on average) and put that cash towards a built n/a motor.

Just my thoughts I guess, it's all up to him (Thread starter) in the end, take in all this advice and make his own decision.

Mainstream has impressed me with there shop, and Scotts tuning, and all the info they have posted here (Other than the h23 bashing, hurt my feelings a little bit j/k) so I would check them out for the build and tuning.

L8r all

my mechanical capabilities huh.... my mechanical capabilities are fine... if anyone has a problem with capabilities, it is the person who thinks spending $5000 on a "G"23 is better than spending $1500 on a H22A longblock. that shit is unreliable except for a very very few cases. You have a bunch of people here who really know what they are talking about and know how its done. Obviously the guy doesn't have a huge budget or else he wouldnt be asking questions, he would pay someone else to figure it out. The cheapest and most realiable thing to do is to get a H22A longblock. I got one from south FLA performance once for $1500 for the longblock. They will sleeve it for an additional $900. add some low compression pistons, rods, and bearings while you are at it and you are still under $3500. throw in some better valve springs and bolt your turbo kit up and you can expect well over 350whp (with a programmable ECU of course). If you want to keep it simple, just swap in the H22A and add a few bolt-ons, maybe some type S cams and a Euro-R IM and there you can easily see 195+whp. It will get 23mpg and will not leave you sitting on the side of the road.

The guy already has a H23... If he is hell bent on boosting it, then he should just get a bolt on turbo kit. If he is looking for big numbers, then he is going to have to step it up and spend some money. The H23 was not meant to rev as high as the H22A. The F23 bottom end was definitely not made to rev that high. it has weak rods that are not as wide as H22/23 rods... It cant handle as much boost.

Save your money.