Im trying to obtain a h22 block and bore it out, but i've heard that h22 sleeves are to thin to bore out. Its made with that special metal similar to sleeves in a c30-c32 motors. What are other routes i could take and still maintain a budget.
H22 sleeve question
Im trying to obtain a h22 block and bore it out, but i've heard that h22 sleeves are to thin to bore out. Its made with that special metal similar to sleeves in a c30-c32 motors. What are other routes i could take and still maintain a budget.
yep they are FRM sleeves. you can buy a sleeve kit for it.
How much do sleeve kits cost? What brand? Darton?
Darton, GOlden Eagle.
expect to spend $1000 FOR A SLEEVED BLOCK if you dont want to sleeve you can run the FRM compatible pistons from MAHLE
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What are you building for? Bosst or N/A?
The Mahle "FRM COMPATIBLE" pistons are about $480 and come in low or high compresion.
If you are gonna run boost, you will only get about 330bhp (or so) before you need to consider sleeving the block.
For N/A you should not have to worry about the sleeving unless you are doing a crazy build-up.
You can run Scat rods for about $320. Those parts should fit in any builder's budget and will handle a lot of horsepower. Most street motor build-ups won't need anymore than that, unless you are going for power that requires sleeving.
Hope that helps.
Im in the the all motor section so obviously i want all motor! Thanks for the info vteckid and fivestar!
oops, sorry, wasn't paying attention to that. A mild build should not need a sleeve kit. You should get good power on an H22 N/A on a budget.
get an H2B kit and drop it in a hatch for a real, budget built, street monster.
So mahle can give me the high compression I want without boring out the sleeves?
BTW, you said "bore it out". Does it Need to be bored out? Only bore it if it really needs it, and bore the minimum amount to keep the integrity of the sleeve structure there.
You could even try an H23 bottom end (non-FRM) and run cheaper pistons. I have a longblock for sale pretty cheap.
How high of comp. do you want??Originally Posted by omar
edit: I think they have an 11.5:1 on the self, or could make you a custom set for like $80 more IIRC.
11:5 sounds really good
I dont want to bore it out, but I thought thats what u do to get bigger pistons and power. Maybe not
True, but you don't want to thin out the stock sleeves on the H22 motor. Boring for power and displacement almost always means, sleeving the block...for any Honda engine.
What HP are you looking for?
spun bearings usually leave the crank structurally un-sound for building power. If you have a good crank, then use his block. Make shure the Main bearings are the same. Early H22 have 55mm mains and H22a4 (later) have 50mm mains.
Spun bearings don't affect the block strength.
or you could just get some type-s piston w/ 11.0:1 ratio standard size or over bore, you can fid them on inline4.com , it will bolt right up to the stock h22a rods
About to approach beast mode
I want like 220-230 whp. Vteckid and scottie tuned my car at mainstream and i put down 184whp and 153torque. So i guess im not too far off right now. BTW im still stock. regular bolt ons wit p72 ecu. what do recommend brotha!
Here is a pretty nice H22 build I did with sleeves and 8.5:1 for turbo. Looking forr 400whp in a daily driver.
k20/k24??? damn. Hey five star its a 50 mm mains. That not going to do me any good is it.
Yeah, what he said too.
You can run stock rods, w/ARP bolts and the Type-S pistons.
Anymore beyond 220whp, I would reccomend the Mahle/Scat combo.
DAMN thats setup is sick. MAD PROPS TO FIVESTAR!!!
Running the later 50mm main block is fine...either will work as long as the crank goes with the block series.
400 dd is crazy. I love talkin to crazy ass people. DAMN thats crazy. goodgodalmighty
all i want is like 220 230 whp. how can I get there with what i got. What size cams can i go with without hurting my stock block
bigger pistons requires boring the cylinders. bigger cylinders= bigger displacement. flat top pistons make less compression than dome top...generally. too much compression on stock block/rods/crank =thrown rod(s).
dont build the bottom end and not the head. and vise versa
EF SQUAD FTMFW!!!!
Thanks for all the replies!!!
Stage 2 cams or Skunk PRO1 cams will get you to 220whp. Maybe spend a little money on port-matching and bowl work on the head, and un-shroud the valves in the chambers. That will get you more than enough power at 11.5:1 compression.
Find a good header.... like Hy-tech, or something custom. If you can find a Euro-R accord intake manifold, you should grab one of them too.
A stock head and intake manifold might get you 220+ but that sounds like a lot for a stock induction.
skunk2 cams, intake manifold
type-s pistons
head work
bored throttle body or skunk2 or STR
some good tuning
also if you get the type-s pistons u don't need to do any boring,
unless u have scoring on the cylinder walls or u want 89mm pistons
About to approach beast mode
Thanks again for all the replies! I think im going with mahle drop in or type S pistons. When I get the block im gonna post pics big time cuz i wanna do it right!
skunk2 manny does not flow better than the stock h22 manifold....
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