From H-t
Quote Originally Posted by dcraft
Hi guys,
I thought I would chime in... I'm Gary Castillo from Design Craft. I was the one that did the build up and just wanted to say that the swap is fairly easy to do. If you have any questions I would be happy to answer any of them. Personally I think the coolest part of this build is that fact that the block doesn't need to be resleeved and it uses all factory Honda parts. anyway, hit me up if you have any questions about it. Just so most of you know I am not an S2000 guru, I'm dumb when it comes to posting on forums and the engine is for the RSR S2000 that I built. The second car is being build as we speak. =)
Quote Originally Posted by dcraft
The rods need to be modified to fit into the crank's rod journal and the tangs are cut into the rods to fit the K-series bearings not for the stroke-to-block clearance. One thing I told Turbo mag about but they didn't enphasis too much on was that if you cut the 4mm out of the crank it can cut down alot of the machining work as well as allow you to run the prelude rod unmodified. So basically you end up with a thicker stronger rod and you can use the thicker prelude bearings too. the only reason I didn't want to modify the crank was because it's much harder to find a machine shop to cut the rod journals on the crank then it is to cut the rods. To be honest with you i wish I did cut the crank since the engine is going to be turbocharged but this was the first engine I did. The 9000 rpm rev limit with this stroke is kinda scary. This engine is to be turbocharged and we won't spin it that high. The rod ratio is down to 1.58 now so it might start to scuff up the pistons skirts at that rpm.
Quote Originally Posted by dcraft
Those were two big concerns of mine too. but an even bigger concern is trying to cut the crank so that it will still use factory rod bearings and cutting the crank will mess up the factory heat treat from Honda... "It's probably the best that I know of." haha. It much better to cut the rod on the lathe since you can grab the inside bore and cut it cleaner. plus it's basic work for any machine shop to cut the rods rather then the crank. at first, I sent one set of rods to get cut with prelude bearings installed so it would cut both...ummm ya... don't do that. cut the tang in the rods for the K-series bearing. Like I said before, I would still rather cut the crank to have a thicker rod since the engine will be turbocharged.
as far as the stroker being cheaper then the Inline pro, Of course!! Factory H22 pistons and rods are super cheap, its the crank that will be expensive brand new. It's still cheaper then an aftermarket kit but strenght... I guess we'll find out soon. HP level, same thing, I guess we'll find out soon. Also, say if you did want to resleeve the engine and you did cut the crank. there would be absolutely no downtime on ordering rods and pistons because none of it would be custom. It's all H22 shelved parts.
As far as power, we will find out in the next month or two. we are running it on the engine dyno, but for you NA peeps, sorry its gonna be turbcharged. 'll let you guys know if it lets loose or not.
I'm sure alot of manufactures aren't too happy I revealed this in the magazine but what can I say.. I love being the first to try new things. haha. I guess it helps that RSR is sponsored by Honda. wait until you see the new car. You'll either love it or hate it.
thanks,
gary c