Turbo Gurus questions for yall

[Repost Squintz]

i drive a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ. Going to go the custom turbo route. I was wondering should i get coilovers, brakes and etc first to handle the power that the turbo's putting out to the wheels, or should i just go ahead and build up the kit. Oh yeah i was wondering if i got everything covered. Im trying to shoot for a goal of 250 whp. Here's the list that i got: Garret T28 Ball Bearing Turbo, Evo8 FMIC w/custom piping, Vortech FMU, Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump, Bored Fuel Rail, RC 370CC Injectors, Greddy TypeS Bov, MBC, Turbo Timer, External Wastegate, 2.5 Downpipe w/wastegate return, Apex SAFC, RRM: Ported Throttle Body, Intake Manifold, Test Pipe, and Short Ram Air Intake, Custom exhaust manifold. Thanks for the help

[Spyder]

i drive a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ. Going to go the custom turbo route. I was wondering should i get coilovers, brakes and etc first to handle the power that the turbo's putting out to the wheels, or should i just go ahead and build up the kit. Oh yeah i was wondering if i got everything covered. Im trying to shoot for a goal of 250 whp. Here's the list that i got: Garret T28 Ball Bearing Turbo, Evo8 FMIC w/custom piping, Vortech FMU, Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump, Bored Fuel Rail, RC 370CC Injectors, Greddy TypeS Bov, MBC, Turbo Timer, External Wastegate, 2.5 Downpipe w/wastegate return, Apex SAFC, RRM: Ported Throttle Body, Intake Manifold, Test Pipe, and Short Ram Air Intake, Custom exhaust manifold. Thanks for the help

lets start at the begining here.

the T28 ball bearing is a bad ass turbo. its also 1000+ bucks. get a t-25 off off of a 2g eclipse or preferably a 14b off of a 1st gen car. or a small T3 or even a t3/t4 those turbos range in price..

t25-50-250
14b-50-250
t3-200-800
t3/t4- 250?-???? the options and trims can cost nothing or a whole lot.

i would get a set of used injectors for alot less then the cost of RC370's again just get a set of DSM 450's 50-100 bucks tops.

the Walboro 255 is a HUGE over kill i would suggest a 190lph if you can find one.. they only save you ~10 bucks but sometimes make it easier to tune the car.

you dont need to bore the fuel rail. it can prolly flow enough fuel for 400hp if not more..

go for a 3 inch down pipe if possible , wont cost alot more and flows better, more flow is more power and less turbo lag.

ported TB is a waste of cash , they are expensive and add about 1-3hp. not worth the 200+ they cost imo

other then that you need some spark plugs that are 1-2 ranges cooler, a highflow airfilter (forget the short ram air thing) a tank of premium gas and a good tuner.

good luck

[Repost Squintz]

lets start at the begining here.

the T28 ball bearing is a bad ass turbo. its also 1000+ bucks. get a t-25 off off of a 2g eclipse or preferably a 14b off of a 1st gen car. or a small T3 or even a t3/t4 those turbos range in price..

t25-50-250
14b-50-250
t3-200-800
t3/t4- 250?-???? the options and trims can cost nothing or a whole lot.

i would get a set of used injectors for alot less then the cost of RC370's again just get a set of DSM 450's 50-100 bucks tops.

the Walboro 255 is a HUGE over kill i would suggest a 190lph if you can find one.. they only save you ~10 bucks but sometimes make it easier to tune the car.

you dont need to bore the fuel rail. it can prolly flow enough fuel for 400hp if not more..

go for a 3 inch down pipe if possible , wont cost alot more and flows better, more flow is more power and less turbo lag.

ported TB is a waste of cash , they are expensive and add about 1-3hp. not worth the 200+ they cost imo

other then that you need some spark plugs that are 1-2 ranges cooler, a highflow airfilter (forget the short ram air thing) a tank of premium gas and a good tuner.

good luck

thanx for the help. so i dont need the tb, aight saves money which is a plus, no short ram air intake save money +2, and used t25 turbo +3 on savin money, used injectors, smaller fuel pump. I like your idea i think im gonna go that route . so thats prolly over 800$ im gonna save doing that. thanx again for the help

[Repost Squintz]

oh yeah i also currently just installed the greddy evo catback

[Spyder]

Im a cheap bastard that like fast cars and know what they can handle in factory trim.. to be honest one of the reasons i responded is because you werent one of those people that come on and say "i have a d-15 and i want to make 500 hp on pump gas and factory internals" you set a realistic goal

oh another thing you need to add to your list of things to purchase:

Gauges.

and dont look at it as a DP you need a turbo back exhaust.

the only thing that is going to cost any money to have made is the manifold.. if you have a friend with welding skills or a shop do it if needed, buy your parts here:

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

[Repost Squintz]

ah, so i guess get rid of the greddy evo cat? lol, duh on the gauges part, one of the main essentials

[Spyder]

ah, so i guess get rid of the greddy evo cat?

i was typing that as you posted that you had a cat back, you have 2 options here..

1-sell it and have enough money to do a crush bent turbo back exhaust
2-keep it and have them put a flange on the turbo-catback section where you can bolt it up to the cat back you have already purchased. this eliminates the need to buy a muffler and such and makes it so rear section (only section that will be seen) is pretty, if you care.

[Spyder]

ah, so i guess get rid of the greddy evo cat? lol, duh on the gauges part, one of the main essentials

you didnt have the gauges listed bish :P

[Repost Squintz]

i was typing that as you posted that you had a cat back, you have 2 options here..

1-sell it and have enough money to do a crush bent turbo back exhaust
2-keep it and have them put a flange on the turbo-catback section where you can bolt it up to the cat back you have already purchased. this eliminates the need to buy a muffler and such and makes it so rear section (only section that will be seen) is pretty, if you care.

ill go with #2. so if i go with the #2 route, i can keep the muffler, and then just pretty much get rid of the piping and get the 3" piping from the downpipe all the way to the muffler?

you didnt have the gauges listed bish :P

and damn i got owned on that one

[Spyder]

ill go with #2. so if i go with the #2 route, i can keep the muffler, and then just pretty much get rid of the piping and get the 3" piping from the downpipe all the way to the muffler?

yea instead of buying a cat back you need a cat forward

[HiPSI]

ill go with #2. so if i go with the #2 route, i can keep the muffler, and then just pretty much get rid of the piping and get the 3" piping from the downpipe all the way to the muffler? and damn i got owned on that one

you don't need a 3" exhaust for 250hp... i'd say stick with your catback you already have and have the downpipe fabbed to fit to that point. slap on a high flow cat converter and you'll be good to go on exhaust. as for the BBT28 turbo, if you're looking for the ones off nissans like the S15 turbo you can get them for around $700-$800 new, and in used form generally about $500 in good shape.

370cc injectors will be too small if you're looking for 250whp... you'll max out their duty cycle very quickly and find out the hard way you need to go bigger. i'd go at least 440's if not 550's just to be safe. i'd recommend some MSD injectors if you need to buy new top feed style injectors because they are priced about the best. or like spyder said used DSM injectors are a great bang for the buck.

no need for an external WG on this setup either. all of the small turbos mentioned will have internal gates and those will be plenty fine for the power you want. plus it's another money saver there.

and to add to your list... set aside a hundred bucks or so for misc. piping/fittings for oil lines, water lines, intercooler plumbing, clamps, etc.

btw, good luck on making that motor hold that kind of power without any internal work . "boost it until it blows, then upgrade"

[Repost Squintz]

you don't need a 3" exhaust for 250hp... i'd say stick with your catback you already have and have the downpipe fabbed to fit to that point. slap on a high flow cat converter and you'll be good to go on exhaust. as for the BBT28 turbo, if you're looking for the ones off nissans like the S15 turbo you can get them for around $700-$800 new, and in used form generally about $500 in good shape.

370cc injectors will be too small if you're looking for 250whp... you'll max out their duty cycle very quickly and find out the hard way you need to go bigger. i'd go at least 440's if not 550's just to be safe. i'd recommend some MSD injectors if you need to buy new top feed style injectors because they are priced about the best. or like spyder said used DSM injectors are a great bang for the buck.

no need for an external WG on this setup either. all of the small turbos mentioned will have internal gates and those will be plenty fine for the power you want. plus it's another money saver there.

and to add to your list... set aside a hundred bucks or so for misc. piping/fittings for oil lines, water lines, intercooler plumbing, clamps, etc.

btw, good luck on making that motor hold that kind of power without any internal work . "boost it until it blows, then upgrade"

oh no im definately gonna get some je pistons, and pauter rods

[Spyder]

oh no im definately gonna get some je pistons, and pauter rods

if you are building the motor it changes things.. i was going off the assumption it would be on a stock block.

[THEONE]

the mitsu T25 from the eclipse is a great turbo.i got one off ebay for 40.00 just make sure you dont buy a core. make sure shaft play is little or none and that it spins freely.and its not cracked on the exaust side where the waste gate dumps out,thats a common problem with these turbos. and if you buy a t25 it will proably come with a internal wastegate,if i were you i would run it and use a boost controller to adjust it.thats a way to save cash. good luck

[Repost Squintz]

if you are building the motor it changes things.. i was going off the assumption it would be on a stock block.

well, i guess i really dont need since im going to be only doing 7psi

[Allstar3.8T]

I agree gt28 is over kill, , any OEM mitsu turbo w/ no shaft play is a good start, a good manifold, FPR, and injectors, then find some way to control timing. Maybe skip FMIC for now since you plan on runnin low boost. Some FMICs rob power if ran on low boost. FMIC only save lost power, and some lose pwr simply based on pipe length, and the actual intercooler inefficency compared to closed pipe.

[Repost Squintz]

FMIC only save lost power, and some lose pwr simply based on pipe length, and the actual intercooler inefficency compared to closed pipe.

hmmmm i have never heard of an intercooler making you loose pow....

[THEONE]

hmmmm i have never heard of an intercooler making you loose pow....

run a intercooler you will like it. oh and if you need something for your timing check out a msd boost timing master they run about 180.00 new and automatically retard your timing per pound of boost and you can set it to retard 1-3 degrees per pound and bump it back as far a 20 degrees. just an idea

[Repost Squintz]

run a intercooler you will like it. oh and if you need something for your timing check out a msd boost timing master they run about 180.00 new and automatically retard your timing per pound of boost and you can set it to retard 1-3 degrees per pound and bump it back as far a 20 degrees. just an idea

thanx for the info, but i already bought a used greddy TT for 60$

[THEONE]

thanx for the info, but i already bought a used greddy TT for 60$

i think we are talking about 2 diffrent things. you bought a turbo timer right? im talking about the engine timing to prevent damage and help it run right with boost.

[Repost Squintz]

i think we are talking about 2 diffrent things. you bought a turbo timer right? im talking about the engine timing to prevent damage and help it run right with boost.

my bad.... ill look into that

[Allstar3.8T]

Daniel, what I am trying to say briefly is;
An intercooler is solely made to SAVE power, not make it. Due to its inherant large size, product placement when front mounted is therefore sometimes hurt by conviluted piping , you can lose power due to many reasons. One being excessive piping to get to the front of the car, another too large of a core. A proper sized FMIC (not a "mine is bigger than yours") will generally make up for its losses in high heat situations and high air movment speeds when less power will be lost by heat soak. Its very typical to see pressure loss on a FMIC from a smaller OEM side mount. Pressure is power. Therefore when the air temp isnt a factor,(fall/winter cool days esp) you may lose power compared to smaller sized IC. When its 90 degrees out, you still lose power, just not as much as a small SMIC that would be very heat soaked. (this is the same idea as superchargers take power to make power by belt drag).
Sorry to confuse anyone by short generalizations

[Repost Squintz]

Daniel, what I am trying to say briefly is;
An intercooler is solely made to SAVE power, not make it. Due to its inherant large size, product placement when front mounted is therefore sometimes hurt by conviluted piping , you can lose power due to many reasons. One being excessive piping to get to the front of the car, another too large of a core. A proper sized FMIC (not a "mine is bigger than yours") will generally make up for its losses in high heat situations and high air movment speeds when less power will be lost by heat soak. Its very typical to see pressure loss on a FMIC from a smaller OEM side mount. Pressure is power. Therefore when the air temp isnt a factor,(fall/winter cool days esp) you may lose power compared to smaller sized IC. When its 90 degrees out, you still lose power, just not as much as a small SMIC that would be very heat soaked. (this is the same idea as superchargers take power to make power by belt drag).
Sorry to confuse anyone by short generalizations

oh ok. i get it now preciate the help though

[Repost Squintz]

i was wondering, if i buy a used t25 turbo should i take it to a shop to get it running smoothly again? i dunno what youd call the process of doing that.

[HiPSI]

i was wondering, if i buy a used t25 turbo should i take it to a shop to get it running smoothly again? i dunno what youd call the process of doing that.

a rebuild? not necessary unless the turbo has excessive shaft play or leaks through the seals.

[SHONUFF]

is the amount of mileage on an N/A engine better or worse for boosting?