What would be a better street motor/race motor. B20 turbo, sleeved of course or B18 (non-vtec) turbo? WHP range of 280 - 325. What would I need either than the obvious to make it happen?
What would be a better street motor/race motor. B20 turbo, sleeved of course or B18 (non-vtec) turbo? WHP range of 280 - 325. What would I need either than the obvious to make it happen?
Save yourself some trouble. Get a GSR head.
^LOL^ yea dude that would be the easy way. But if you want more torque do the B20 sleeved..
yeah
but the gsr head is safest way![]()
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Safest? Not sure about that but it will be easier than building a non-vtec head.Originally Posted by StarOfOrion
boost the b20
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jus the vtec head w/out wiring it? i want to do something a little different...maybe jus as much torque as hp or jus more torque than most b-series out there. its great to see everyone w/ 9000rpms vtec and all the goodness. looking to build something not everyone has. im leaning more heavily on the b20 turbo.
what are you looking to make why sleeve spend that money on something else im going b20 and i wouldnt sleeve it, but if u got the money go head
b20's have a one piece cylinder wall and are prone to cracking under high cylinder pressure to my knowledge. thus, the reason for sleeving. i want to run like 15-18psi
B20
project- boost coming soon!
build a LS/vtec or GSR there is no need to sleeve it for that power level. The b20 you would need to sleeve. The cylinder walls are very brittle, n/a or turbo.
def go with a b18a/b. its way better/safer to boost then the b20. the sleeves in the b20 are a little weaker then the b18's.![]()
i personally think ppl need to stop being like i wanna do something different.... you won't be different, there will always be someone with a sleeved b20 boosted and a boosted b18.... so do what suits your GOALS... if u dont wanna be like everyone else, dont pop your hood!..... my opinion, no need to sleeve for the power you want to make so dont go b20....i say turbo LS or turbo ls/vtec gsr head.... IMOOriginally Posted by BLACK_EK9
good luck
or ls/vtec w/ b16a head. gsr or b16 will work.Originally Posted by Jdm94Coupe
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lmao
if thats all your shooting for, check this guys build out that we did.Originally Posted by BLACK_EK9
http://forums.importatlanta.com/showthread.php?t=63524
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next time dont be stupid enough to come back in you HT name LOL. see ya, come back with a different name buddy. not to smart are you?Originally Posted by cuin9sec
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looks like 400hp isnt too hard. but at what hp range will parts start to break? axles too when should those be upgraded according to hp? and mike how much did that build cost parts and labor? and if i do choose vtec o heard it kinda hard and time cinsuming tuning the vtec engagement and turbo. i want to keep it simple
Last edited by BLACK_EK9; 05-29-2006 at 11:47 PM.
tuning is very simple whether its vtec or not.
Axles can last very long as long as you arent drag racing every weekend. I dont beleive in upgraded axles unless you are making 600+
that guys build was around $5200 with tuning
that included:
CP pistons $475
ACL bearings $100
Eagle ROds $300
TDF CUstom Turbo Manifold an downpipe $1000
T3/T4 Turbo built to our specs $800
Machine work $500
Stage 4 Competition Clutch $300
560CC injectors $150
It included all OEM parts (new timing belt, water pump, oil pump, headgasket, lower gasket kit, valve cover gasket, cam seals)
Assembly of longblock $550
Pulling his old motor out, an reinstalling the new motor. $600
Tuning $420
Total $5195
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would it be the same for a tiop mount turbo manifold? whats the power difference between the two?
how much to get the b20 sleeved?
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 750
the top mount runs $200 more since it take more material to buildOriginally Posted by BLACK_EK9
the Top mount we currently only offer to guys looking to make 600whp+. there really is no reason for a top mount like Spoolins and Iloveboosts unless you have a very high whp motor. But if you want one just ot have one , then we will be happy to oblige hehe.
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which tranny would be best b16, gsr, or ls????
i prefer GSR
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gsr with LS countershaft and ring gear and be pimpin like me!!!
haha.
back to the original, go stock sleeves till about 500whp, then consider aftermarket. I beat the fuck out of mine for a year with no problem and took it apart running.
mike all those prices are right on it but what ass did you pull that 500$ for machine work from. i think you meant 50 or 150 for basic machining. haha
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nah.thats what REAL machine work costs.
Bore, hone, Step Deck
Balance rods pistons
Recondition Rods for our bearing specs
Balance Crank
Micropolish crank
Chamfer Oil passages
Deck Head
HOt tank, clean
I have a preworked deal with out machine shop. hell, i spend $650 in machine work from Scots Machine shop on my old GSR motor.
shit costs money ot do it RIGHT
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