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Thread: How do you turbo a D16Y7 ?

  1. #1
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    Default How do you turbo a D16Y7 ?

    I know this can be done, but I have no idea how.... Greddy & Edelbrock make kits for D16Y8's that are CARB certified (so they will pass the OBDII plug tests; very important ) and I'm wondering if either of these can be made to pass emissions for a 1997 D16Y7 (non-VTEC SOHC) civic. The Y7 has that funky throttle body/carburator hybrid thing instead of a standard throttle body/intake plenum/runner setup. So I guess question #1 is can a Y8 plenum/runner be fitted to a Y7 head? and #2 can either the Greddy or Edelbrock kit (Edelbrock has it's own intake plenum in the kit) be mated to the Y7 intake configuration? (or should I just slap on a Y8 head?)


    ===> don't get started on the "engine swap" arguments; i've already done that and found out that stuffing a B18C1 into a car designed for a D16Y8 adds about 400 lbs into the front end of the vehicle. This means that unless you've got ABS, you've got a big problem stopping (and AEM "big brake" rotors just make the tires stop rolling faster - that's when they start to SLIDE.... and that really sucks). And I had Ground Control + Tokico's designed for the Civic/GSR swap to keep the nose from actually touching the ground; it rode better except for a the fact that it turned like a baleen whale. And it was expesive as hell to do it all of that fun stuff too.

    THIS time i'm sticking with the right weight balance for the car and i'm going to play with boost and bottles ) It's a little cheaper to do plus I like the whooshing noises AND being able to turn ) ) )

    The turbod16 board is helpful but they are a little vague on how the legalities work out on this too when it comes to OBDII tests (not to mention the parts to do it)

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    Just swap a d16y8 in there, Not much of weight diffrence. (if weight is the big issue)
    The thing that kills me is that funky CC attached to the header.

    Interesting to see done though and make it pass sniff.
    I think Turbonectics make a kit for the d16y7 but who knows if its carb legal.
    Maybe you should contact them and see what they say.

  3. #3
    XLR8SHEN FOE LizzziFeE iNsTuN nOoDoH's Avatar
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    get a y8 intake manifold that i saw vteckidd is selling.
    crx HF manifold with a t(watever) flange. get a turbo with an internal wastegate. get piping from jc whitney. 450cc injectors from an eclipse. safc/vafc. oil lines from barnett performance. reducer and couplars from ebay. vacuum lines from wherever autozone. johnnyracecar intercooler. hourly tune at one of the ia sponsors and voila! 160+ lbs/tq and various hp...

    injectors from an eclipse. safc/vafc. <<< that is what you'll use for fuel management... i know some people will prefer uberdata/hondata, but you want to pass emissions so the safc/vafc hack will pass. I just did mine a week ago.

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    IA Juinor Member Mr_S13®'s Avatar
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    ^^^ im with stupid
    [SIGPIC]

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    go here since i'm too lazy to retype:
    http://www.importlounge.com/forum/in...opic=27825&hl=
    i'm surprised you were able to pass running the afc hack. you're either running small injectors or got lucky. baro sensor typically trips if you're running large injectors and/or get rich/lean codes if you're tuned well in boost.

    i'd recommend going uberdata and you'll spend less $$ that way and be more reliable, tuneable, and have more power.

    i've run both and had to swap back to my obd2 ecu/inj both times to pass emissions. if you know what you're doing it doesn't take anymore time to swap back from uberdata once a year.

    if you really want to spend the extra $$ and have reliable hp and pass emissions the edlebrock or greddy kits are good choices.
    MAINSTREAM PERFORMANCE & DIGITAL BOX TUNING
    ECU CHIPPING/SOCKETING/TUNING-HONDATA, CROME, BRE, TURBOEDIT
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    XLR8SHEN FOE LizzziFeE iNsTuN nOoDoH's Avatar
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    yeah...I had the BARO code that kept on coming on, but all I did was unplug the battery for 10 minutes and plugged it back in. The CEL's came on @ ~ 12 miles so I went to an emissions place drove away for 10 miles unplugged the battery for 10 minutes and drove back. I passed all the tests, even the readiness test. I got DSM 450's. Uberdata is the shit though, can't wait to convert =0)

  7. #7
    D-Fence-Less Sport1.3's Avatar
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    would a AFPR and an alternate pump set-up work for this application? i have a friend running a 14b with HF mani and the AFPR/extra pump on his ZC swaped 91 hatch. it runs flawlessly and was dirt cheap. i also have the same set-up on my T03/T4H powered Protege (though i know its not a honda) and neither of ours runs a CEL or runs too lean/rich (its easy to manually adjust fuel/air)
    -Super cool .gif TO UNBAN JITB, JM, Buttons AND NEMISIS here-

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    All you want to know about boosting a Honda:
    » www.honda-tech.com
    » Forced Induction forum

  9. #9
    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    I'm think green91 can help, actually i'm sure he'll be in this thread shortly...

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