Whats the difference between buffers?
Is there a difference? I see some on ebay around 50-70 bucks that claim they can do as well if not better than Dewalt and other brands. And the dewalts are around 200 bucks. Would the difference be speed? They both have adjustable speeds. Lookin to purchase a new buffer within a couple days. Appreciate it!
hope this is the right forum too, I don't know where the detailing section went to.
The Carbon Fibered R6
Go with the dewalt or meguiars ($100 & I think porter cable makes it)...
Did ya get one already?
I can help you with the different buffer types (I have 3 different ones) if you still need info.
LMK.
hrmm...sounds like a good tech article to me. I'd be curious to know the differances too...i prefer the smaller 4 1/2" or 6" over the 10" and 12's (don't quote me on that, lol) but they still have to be a slower speed...I want one fast enough i can use as a polisher but not so fast it will burn up the paint.Originally Posted by BretFraz
That's a good idea. I should contact the mods and see what it would take.
I'll post a basic version here. Feel free to ask questions if ya have them.
There are basically three different types of automotive buffing/polishing machines:
1. Random Orbital Buffer - - These are the big round buffers you can buy at places like Sears or Pep Boys. They've been around for over 50 years. If you go to a commercial car wash like Carnett's and have them wax your car, this is the machine they will use. Cost is under $100 but there are heavy duty industrial versions that go $150-200. They all have a large drive pad (8' - 12" in size) which has to be covered with a bonnet, typically made of terrycloth cotton or microfiber. These machines do not have the speed or torque to do serious paint polishing. They're best suited for using light polishes and applying cleaner waxes. If you just want a simple-to-use buffer to apply Turtle Wax to your car, these machines are fine.
2. Dual Action polisher - - This is a more serious machine than the r/o buffer. The D/A polisher is a version of orbital sanders made for woodworking. They have a high torque motor and adjustable speed settings. Similar to the r/o buffer, the pad occillates in an orbit which reduces the chance of damaging the paint. One of the best aspects to a D/A polisher is the availability of polishing pads and accessories, allowing the user to do almost anything except major paint defect repairs like removing sanding marks. By far and away the choice of detailers and enthusiasts is the Porter Cable 7424 (and its variants). If you read a detailing forum like Autopia.org and see people talking about "the PC", this is the machine. Cost is $100-150 but you need accessories like a backing plate and a selection of pads, so start up cost is more like $200-250. For the vast majority of people this is the machine to have unless you are hard core about detailing or you detail cars for a living.
3. Direct Drive Rotary Polisher - - This is the choice of pro detailers, body shops, painters, etc. If you have paintwork done and you see the guys polishing out a car, this is the type of machine they are using. A rotary polisher operates in a circular, not orbital motion, so the pad can generate a lot of heat which is what is needed to remove scratches, sanding marks, serious oxidation and other major paint defects. If this machine can't fix the problems, a new paint job is the next step. The downside to a rotary polisher is the very real possibility of permanently damaging your paint, so it's best used by an experienced detailer or car owner. While there are some cheapshit models out there, the best machines are around $175-250. DeWalt, Makita, Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Hitachi, Fein and Metabo are the top brands.
Anyway, that's the basics. I can find some good how-to links if you guys want more info.
Last edited by BretFraz; 01-18-2006 at 07:52 PM.
Great info! I have fresh paint, couples months old, and thinking about wet sanding and polishing (it wasn't done originally) ...nothing but microfiber clothes have touched it since it was sprayed but not sure what direction to go....
damn! thanks a lot. unfortunetly, i can't afford a buffer right now. just bought some goodies for the ride.
so basically, for waxing, I just want a plain 'ol buffer? hand waxing is fun for about the first 30 minutes.
The Carbon Fibered R6
If you have the film build (paint thickness) and want to show the car, wetsanding will make the paint look unbelieveable. If you don't know if there's enough paint have the painter use his Elcometer or ETG meter and see what he says. Hopefully there is enough paint to wetsand safely.
Yeah, it'll be OK and definitely make the job easier. Something like this would be fine: http://cgi.ebay.com/10-RANDOM-ORBITA...QQcmdZViewItem
These look like a good deal: http://cgi.ebay.com/Craftsman-9in-Bu...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Craftsman-Buffer...QQcmdZViewItem
What wax are you using?
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