It doesn't matter what brand of wheel it is, any wheel has the potential to crack. I had a set of Fikse FM10's for my old M3. Three out of the four faces were cracked. Fikse wanted $400/ea for replacement faces plus new hardware.
It doesn't matter what brand of wheel it is, any wheel has the potential to crack. I had a set of Fikse FM10's for my old M3. Three out of the four faces were cracked. Fikse wanted $400/ea for replacement faces plus new hardware.
I am old, I only buy OE or the pricey stuff anymore. (my GRM $2011 challenge car being the exception)
I guess it depends on what the item is. Wheels - i can't see spending 1k+ on wheels. Under 1k is ok. For a real baller car i can see spending on baller deep dish wheels like CCW, just depends on the platform.
On my civic the rota slips were fine. I just drove more careful to prevent bends in the wheels.
When it comes to you get what you pay for. I do believe it, mostly. There can be some exceptions like anything. For my civic i only like to use genuine OEM stuff. Like say a window regulator for a 92 - 95 Civic (72211-SR3-J01). Dealer part is 60.23. Aftermarket is prob $20 on ebay. I hate aftermarket stuff like that it's crap. I have real world experience and it doesn't last worth a dam. So, that junk can go in the dumpster. A friend of mine bought one for his accord and it roll didn't up right, it. It was far from smooth like the factory. Thats unacceptable. Most aftermarket replacement parts is junk but it depends on what your getting.
Say it was a clutch - i wouldn't go with a genuine honda one. I'd rock an aftermarket one, a decent brand at least. Think - Exedy, ACT, or the custom one i had built to spec. So yeah it just depends.
Also, some aftermarket brands are very good at fitment but the cheaper stuff tend to suc in fitment and performance. examples - exedy vs ebay brand. blackworks radiator vs koyo race, honda OEM seal vs. OEM like oil seal, $150 tint vs WINCOS tint. And yes tint can perform that good, lol. Hard to believe.
It just depends.
Honda - supplying products of the highest quality at a reasonable cost. Member of the high mileage club.
BODHI - "whats the lowest you will take" then dont even bother posting in this thread! i dont have the time wasting on fuckin dumbfucks who dont know how shit works -- which is me, selling a phone and expecting someone to buy it. At least have some balls to tell me that youre too cheap to buy or say - fuck shoot me a pm if youre too embarrassed
I dont have a problem with knock-offs, but I REALLY have a problem with these new idiots that make fun of people for buying the real thing.
I can't stand people that make fun of anything anyone does really but it's a fact we have to deal with in this industry.
Originally Posted by Echonova
Knock offs aren't bad until the owners of them put the stickers of the real wheels on them. Like putting the Work stickers on rotas, or the CPR stickers on the Rotas.. That's the only thing that bugs me. It's someone elses car, so why get worked up over their wheels being replicas?
But I agree I rather support the company that made the wheel instead of the company that just copied the wheel. To each their own though.
I support what I like regardless of who makes it.
Right here. Later, QD.
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If you are building a "performance car", with more horsepower, "better" suspension, and are planning to drive it harder than most, why skimp on the wheel/tire package that is quite possibly the most critical compnent on a car? There is tons of knock-off garbage flowing into this country at a record pace. When you buy a wheel at $129 from Tire Rack or whoever else, they are selling it for roughly a minimum of 30 points. They are buying it for $80-90. The WD (or manufacturer) might be selling it at their bare minimum for 25 points, because of the volume they are getting from a large buyer in this case. So, we are down to the $50 dollar range now, minus the $10 or so ride to the US and tax/tariff. Now we're down to $40 or less. Tooling and development typically soak up about 20-30% in most cases, coating and curing is another $5-10. That leaves about $25 for materials, overhead, packaging, advertising, PR, and so on. At $20 or less in materials to make a 20lb aluminum wheel, what do you think you are getting? These are certainly not the castings that I would put much risk into, especially over an OE wheel that goes through years of development and testing.
Signed,
Your resident Automotive Engineer (and Guy who's father owned a very large wheel company)
I'm not saying I won't or don't support the larger companies but if I find something I like and it's in my budget at the time, I jump on it.
Case in point: Pretty soon I am going to purchase the new XXR 531s in platinum 16x8 +20 for the Accord. Why? Because I like them. Yeah, they are knockoff CCWs but I don't want to have to fork out the cash for CCWs when I can get something else that I like for a fraction of the price. My Accord will not be geared completely towards performance anyways. Engine parts, however, is another story. I buy nothing but name brand parts such as HKS, Greddy, Garrett, etc.
You just eliminated about 98% of this site. And a lot of others. I think you may be reading more into this thread than was intended. I'm referring to your average everyday "tuners." Not race car drivers. Later, QD.
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I personally don't care about fake or real, it a fucking wheel.
Just like fake boobs, they still look good and get the job done. Just make sure they are the right size and offset and you got it made!
I see a lot of people defending their view with the argument that you want to "support" the BIG manufacturer, i.e. justify paying the super duper high price. Personally, I have the wheels I have because I was after a certain look. I've had knock offs and now have the other. So what? I was made fun of when I had name brand wheels that didn't look right on my car. So what I paid for it, how great the materials were, and what brand it was mattered zilch. They didn't look right. That's the bottom line.
I've "raced" my car plenty and never had a wheel failure like you see all over youtube and snobby forum pics of centers flying off and wheels breaking apart. Every one of the major castastrophic wheel failures that I've personally seen have failed due to user error, not material failure. So if you take that into consideration, then it stands to reason that for 99.9999% of people driving around DD's, name brand doesn't matter much if they can't drive worth a damn anyway. If you hit a curb trying to "drift", it will kill ANY wheel just the same. Brand or no brand.
I think a few of you are being a little snobby and playing to your own needs. If I owned a BBS store, then of course I wouldn't support anything but BBS. But to say that everything else but BBS is crap is short sighted and not correct. BTW, my wheels are BBS's, so no hate mail about it. Just an example to prove a point.
Personally, I'd rather see good looking knock offs than the other super uber gay trends that people "rock" now trying to copy what they see on cable and doing a sorry job at it. I suppose some of you that stick your noses up at knock offs have 100% authentic carbon fiber, billet aluminum, and Italian leather in YOUR car????? If not, why not if the best is the best is the best and YOU gotta have it.....to drive to work......????.....right.
Realer the wheel bigger the ego cock.....
Jaime - What are you going to purchase when the replica manufacturers have nothing to copy because the original manufactures have now deceased due to lack of sales to these replica manufactures. If it wasn't for them, Rota's aftermarket division wouldn't be as successful as they are today. I'm willing to bet that most people don't even know that Rota originally started out as an OE supplier but that doesn't mean the same quality materials are used in their aftermarket side.
You can say that the people that do support the original manufactures are being snobby, etc. but I will always support them regardless of what other people think.
Rotas sales do not compete with the sales of premium wheel makers like Volk, much like how sales of corvettes do not compete with sales of ferrari's. Even if the corvette never existed the people who couldn't afford a ferrari still wouldn't be able to afford one.
Besides the brand, I also look into weight when it comes to wheels. This is something most replicas, or "off brands" don't really offer.
And I don't track my car, but my goal is to make it one fun DD, that could handle a track, and take me to work every day. I sometimes drive like it's on a track... Lol. I would prefer to have something I know isn't known for failure, and something that has some R&D behind it. I guess I fall under the 2% who are looking for more function over form in a wheel.
Why can't people get the "known for failure" theory out of their head? Wheels fail, break, crack, bend, and get destroyed regardless of brand.
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This is true, but the ones with no R&D behind them tend to happen a little more often.
THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ANYTHING MADE THAT DID NOT HAVE A PURPOSE
Performance: QR25DE-T
It's one thing to strike something with the wheel to make it crack/break, it's another thing when it flies off
"Went to a safty stewart class today and found some info you Rota wheel owners might find important. This is an email that was sent to Howard Duncan who is head of the Program Dept at SCCA.
Today we had a Subaru break a wheel during a practice run. The wheels were Rota and the model was the Attack version. These are very popular wheels with the Subaru crowd. The wheels had cracks from the inside that showed oxidation from 1/2 to 2/3rds of the way through the broken wheel. I checked the other wheels on the car and found a slight crack with my thumbnail on the inside of the other wheel that I could make visable confirmation. On another wheel I could feel a line in the power coat, but could not see any break. After checking another car with Rota wheels, I'm almost to the point of outlawing the wheels in Houston. If possible I'd like us (nationally) to advise the regional safety stewards to check their local competitors cars with Rota whells. Something like a service bulletin, I know their could possibly be a liability issue in doing so, but the whell that came off ended up at least 10 feet up in a tree over 100 feet from the side of the course. We all know the damage, both personal and physical, that a loose whell can cause. I had a photographer take pictures of the wheel and the break points.
Official report to follow though normal channels. There was no one injured and little real damge to the car, the potential was very high though."
"View Post
End of story, I have 7 cracks in 3 wheels! So what, when you buy a set of Rota's you can never ever, have them remounted or they'll break????? Stop blamming it on me and IAG because it's very clear that I didn't hit anything, and it's very clear that your wheels BROKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
and check this out, never seen this before. Lol
http://montrealracing.com/forums/sho...amazing-part-2
Again, all wheels can break. I just put more confidence in companies that put time and effort into their design, I'm willing to pay $300 extra for a set of wheels I think will last me the life of the car as long as I don't curb, crash, bang them.
THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ANYTHING MADE THAT DID NOT HAVE A PURPOSE
Performance: QR25DE-T
Another thing that people don't think about is you reduce the strength of the wheel when you have them powder-coated.
I still wouldn't buy a $3k set of wheels and risk damage. Repairs and replacements can get expensive.
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What's so funny about that?
Exactly. It's a tired and nonsense excuse.
Proof behind your theory? Later, QD.
FOR MORE INFO, CLICK THE PIC!!!
He won't find any
I chuckle a little inside when I see people throw around "R&D" like they know what it means
Being that I was a project manager, I would know R&D. Another member that has posted in this thread has as well since he was a product manager.
Explain how powder coating a wheel reduces the strength of the wheel.
I mean, is all you need to do is read a little on the wheels your looking into. It's a fact forged wheels are stronger than cast wheels. It takes R&d to figure out the best way, reactions of materials, to make a wheel lightweight, function, and be durable. Enkei has been working on their MAT wheel line up for a while. You think they just threw the idea on there and started production? They had a goal to make a wheel lighter than cast, stronger, and more affordable than forged.
When you do r&d, it gets factored into the cost of the product. All those people haven't been working for free.
I don't know what rota does, but I could bet from their prices and wheels, r&d isn't something they focus a whole lot on, not to mention the reviews you can find from people. They take all their designs from other companies, and make a cast version, which if I need to remind you, is proven to be weaker than a forged wheels. I'm not really sure why this is even a debate. Lol
I've read enough bad reviews on Rota wheels to decide that's something I don't want supporting my car.
THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ANYTHING MADE THAT DID NOT HAVE A PURPOSE
Performance: QR25DE-T
I have name brand wheels, but I totally get the knock off idea too. I don't however buy into the idea that there's all these catastrophic "failures" from regular DD, which is what everyone in here does. Let's be real. Stop pretending you're driving some kind of under cover race car just because you go to a track day every once in a while. It's a DD. Give me a break. People talk like they just drive down the road and the wheels just fall off the car or something. Bullshit.
I don't buy it. Sorry.
In other words, no actual proof, then.
I wasn't aware of a debate, myself. I simply asked why people think a car looks like shit only because they don't have the real mccoy wheels.
I don't use Rotas either as they don't make wheels for my car. In fact, only a couple of companies do.
I also see you kind of dodged my other question to you. Later, QD.
FOR MORE INFO, CLICK THE PIC!!!
It's propaganda... I know.
But I sleep better knowing my car won't explode siting in the garage in the middle of the night because I have real rims on it.
^ I can see why imitation stuff is made inferior to Real deal but long as you don't act a fool or do anything besides daily drive them id see them lasting.
I wouldn't go as far as to saying they will last as long or be just as reliable as the right stuff. You get what you pay for isn't just a saying but a lived by motto.
Dammit Envus!!!!!!!
I was ninja'd
Now I have to think of a new smart-ass comment to make.
I certainly don't live by that "motto." Later, QD.
FOR MORE INFO, CLICK THE PIC!!!
Im more like the opposite myself lol
I guess you can't read. And fake wheels look fine. They usually do the job fine. It's not that bad for a DD, like you mention, probably only 98% of ppl here wouldn't have a real need for a "quality" wheel , and I think I fall under the 2%.
Your other question as to why I laughed? Because you don't know me well enough to know I laugh at just about everything. I shouldn't be driving on the streets like it's a race track, but when the time is right, that's what I do. That's what I set my car up to be able to handle.
THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ANYTHING MADE THAT DID NOT HAVE A PURPOSE
Performance: QR25DE-T
This is like trying to teach a left handed person to use their right hand. I'll just leave it there. There is plenty of information out there to provide info for anyone who wants to know.
THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ANYTHING MADE THAT DID NOT HAVE A PURPOSE
Performance: QR25DE-T
I can't read? You're right. I can't read what's not posted. You posted "facts" with no back up.
You're right again. I don't know you. But I do know how stupid it is "drive on the streets like it's a race track." I don't really see anything funny about putting people in danger. But that's a whole other topic.
Let's just leave this "debate" at your analogy. I don't want to get into some worthless argument with you, dude. I got away from arguing a while back. Later, QD.
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