Good Gsr Build?

[deondre]

i know this question has probably been posted a billion times....but anyways..

is 190whp attainable with this build. ( gsr block and head)

here's what im thinking....
injen cai
tb?
skunk2 im
jdm itr pistons stock bore ( want to avoid the machine shop) (no port either)
stage 1 cam ? want to keep my stock valve-train ( so no stage 2) want something that makes a little bit more power than a type r cam
RMF narrow header replica
2.5 header back exhaust.
clutch and flywheel?

dont know if i should get a tb, not 100% sure on the piston choice, also not sure of what cam i should use. insights appreciated.

[Bacon]

If you are gonna run an aftermarket intake system and IM, might as well replace the throttle body. It would probably be a little more likely to reach your goal with at least stage 2 cams.

[gsrcivic]

pr3 pistons

[AV8ter]

What are your goals? I gather you already have type R cams, or replicas of them, right? I would have to say if you're looking to make any substantial gains just go straight to turbo. Either way you go parts will start to add up quick. That or find a OG JRSC for it.

[deondre]

What are your goals? I gather you already have type R cams, or replicas of them, right? I would have to say if you're looking to make any substantial gains just go straight to turbo. Either way you go parts will start to add up quick. That or find a OG JRSC for it.

turbo on a high compression build? im trying to stay reliable... i've seen type R builds some how get to 190whp on various dyno's.. dont know how accurate they are, but like i said im wondering is it 190whp attainable with a stage one cam and those bolt ons..

[AV8ter]

Motors are as reliable as you choose to make them. You mentioned swapping pistions in the original post so it wouldn't be a big deal to just go ahead and drop the compression.

Anyway. If you really are only shooting for 190, I would imagine your not too far away with the parts you already have.

I would look for a type r intake mani and tb, a pair of crower cams, the rmf rep header and 2.5" exhaust, pistons if you dare(might aswell do the the basics before swapping pistons), and a good tune(obd1).

[Starrfire]

I'm gonna say on most dynojet dyno's from the ones I've had and seen dyno'd it will probably put down around high 170's to 180whp. But shit happens and it could happen.

[Black4DrEK]

My bet is the 180hp mark.

you would need a few more parts/work to hit that mark. Just saying.

And avoiding machine shop?? How are you going to get the Pistons on the rods, And get a Fresh hone for that block, also head resurfaced.

[blown_ss]

Motors are as reliable as you choose to make them. You mentioned swapping pistions in the original post so it wouldn't be a big deal to just go ahead and drop the compression.

Anyway. If you really are only shooting for 190, I would imagine your not too far away with the parts you already have.

I would look for a type r intake mani and tb, a pair of crower cams, the rmf rep header and 2.5" exhaust, pistons if you dare(might aswell do the the basics before swapping pistons), and a good tune(obd1).

considering a type r intake mani wont fit a gsr head.

[Black4DrEK]

^^
hah. x2

[AV8ter]

considering a type r intake mani wont fit a gsr head.

If you got the time and tools on hand, it is possible. But yes, it is typically cheaper(time), and easier to just do a skunk2.

[nelson9995]

if you really want to save money and alot of work just slap a stage 1 cam or type r and settle for 170s tuned... you will save alot of money and time and machine work and get like 6-7 less hp lol... so it's entirely up to you.

Now if you want to spend an extra $1000 at least... between machine work... pistons... bearings...headgasket... builder, etc... for 6-7 extra hp that is also up to you...

it's all in what you want and how much you are willing to spend.

[allmotor-teg]

if you really want to save money and alot of work just slap a stage 1 cam or type r and settle for 170s tuned... you will save alot of money and time and machine work and get like 6-7 less hp lol... so it's entirely up to you.

Now if you want to spend an extra $1000 at least... between machine work... pistons... bearings...headgasket... builder, etc... for 6-7 extra hp that is also up to you...

it's all in what you want and how much you are willing to spend.

^^
agree with crankhp over here, N/A are expensive for the little hp gains that you will get, maybe a swap?