All motor GSR questions

[DarKStaR]

wow, i read half the posts in this thread and realised there were a bunch of dumb posts.

i just put a ls crank, ls rods and type r pistons in a gsr block. i like it, you do get more bottom end......

now to anyone who says the gsr rotating aseembly is stronger, they straight need slapped.

the ls rods are made from the same material as the gsr rods, the ls rods are about a centimeter or so thicker width x width both ways. the ls rods also have more surface area on the crank for the rod bearings, you have less chance of spinning a rod bearing. <<< this is what i see by looking at it. you search the internet other people say differently. i had a chipped p28 with a type r map and 9500rpm redline, i literally beat the shit out of my car trying to spin a rod bearing. i drive to florida and everywhere else, i wanted to know if it was going to go. it didn't you don't need to get the oil squirter delete kit, but you do need to bend the oil squirters down a hair, a long screwdriver and rubber mallet will do this for you.

now, the bad thing about ls-vtec or putting a ls rotating assembly in a v-tec motor is the stroke. when turning that high of rpm's over a long period of time you can egg shape your cylinders, if you don't believe me search google, there are write ups on it.....

i used usdm type r pistons, ls crank, ls rods gsr block, and gsr head. , here is a compression calculator that will tell you the ratio.

http://tachedout.com/includes/calc.html



11.22:1 is the compression ratio for this build. with stock b16 pistons it might be a little lower.


"edit" i dunno if i said this above, i did not get my rotating assembly balanced but it doesn't idle rough or anything it sounds good. i was on a budget though and would recomend you getting yours balanced. also i did use arp rod bolts and would suggest you do the same.

another "edit" the oil squirters required being bent down about an 1/8 inch and they were in the middle of the pistons/counterweights. i would recomend using a long screwdriver to bend them down with the pistons out from the cylinder holes/top of block. when you assembly the crank and have the outside caps tight put your harmonic balancer bolt back in and rotate the crank. if they hit tap them very softly back towards the pistons. don't do a lot of bending, if they get weak you will need the block off kit, but it was really easy imo. i just tapped them all down a hair and they missed the pistons lol

The ls crank gives you more stroke, usually leading to more tq. I think thats what some people mean by "bottom end". The problem with the ls rods are the rod bolts not the bearings from what ive seen and read. And ive never heard of cylinders getting egg shaped by running a lsv over a period of time lol. I can see this happening if your pistons are smaller than the bore and have piston slap....And the b16 pistons will give you a higher compression ratio over the usdm itr's. I havnt heard of anybody having a rough idle from not having their rotating assembly balanced, usually that has to do with the tune. But if it idles rough because of the crank, yo shits fucked up lol.

i would also like to add, since there are oil squirters and more bearing contact i would recomend a oil pump that flowed a little more than stock. i think the type r oil pump does? it's your call though.

Somebody correct me if im wrong but the newer oil pumps are the same for type r,gsr, and ls. All the same part number...

edit:zo beat me to it

[x_doug_x]

The ls crank gives you more stroke, usually leading to more tq. I think thats what some people mean by "bottom end". The problem with the ls rods are the rod bolts not the bearings from what ive seen and read. And ive never heard of cylinders getting egg shaped by running a lsv over a period of time lol. I can see this happening if your pistons are smaller than the bore and have piston slap....And the b16 pistons will give you a higher compression ratio over the usdm itr's. I havnt heard of anybody having a rough idle from not having their rotating assembly balanced, usually that has to do with the tune. But if it idles rough because of the crank, yo shits fucked up lol.



Somebody correct me if im wrong but the newer oil pumps are the same for type r,gsr, and ls. All the same part number...

edit:zo beat me to it

i read somewhere one pump flowed higher than the others? where i dunno...


as far as the cylinders go, i can't explain it.
http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom4.html read away...


The ideal R/S is 1.75:1 (Three cheers for the B16A, at a near-perfect 1.74:1!).


Why a low R/S is bad for reliability


A low R/S means the rod will be closer to a horizontal angle on its upstroke. This means that more of its force will be pushing the piston horizontally, rather than vertically. What does this mean for your engine? Two things.

1. There will be more stress on the sides and in the center of the rod, rather than on its ends, leaving the rod more vulnerable to breaking. Picture a straw. This is no special straw, just an ordinary drinking straw. Is it going to be easier to bend this straw by applying pressure onto its ends, or at its center? Now think of your poor connecting rods.

2. There will be more stress on your cylinder walls. Once again, the rod is pushing the piston at a more horizontal angle- right into your cylinder walls, rather than up and through them. The risk here is double: A. Putting that piston right through the cylinder wall. B. The cylinder wall will actually flex under the pressure, causing the shape to turn from a circle to an oval or oblong shape. This causes the loss of the seal created by the piston rings. What happens? A small amount of oil could slip past into the combustion chamber. Bad things happen from here: The oil gets combusted, leaving nasty carbon deposits in your combustion chamber and exhaust ports- not a good thing for flow or valve sealing.