I was told by Mike (VtecKidd) that LS/VTECs' are unreliable & that you can't rev them like you can a B16. Yes you will have more torque because of the displacement but your not going to have as much top end power, IMO. When I had my B16 I probably would've taken most LS/VTECs' out there(stock ones)
not too many engines out there can be revved like a b16, period...so that's a pretty safe thing to say.Originally Posted by KevinT707
I was told by Mike (VtecKidd) that LS/VTECs' are unreliable & that you can't rev them like you can a B16. Yes you will have more torque because of the displacement but your not going to have as much top end power, IMO. When I had my B16 I probably would've taken most LS/VTECs' out there
We ran a stock b20z block with a mildly built b16 head putting out 205/155 at the wheels and it ran several races with no problems. Sleeve it & upgrade the internals and you would have a great daily driver that should be as reliable as any other b-series.
I have a spare p72 head and an engine stand sitting all alone in the corner so I'm very tempted to build one just for fun. i'd rather use a b16 head though.
why not a gsr head/ or itr head????
because the pistons would hit it and cause damage.....I would start off with a B16 but I like the ls/vtec because its more power for the money which can be built for around the same price. B16s run for about $800 or what not. All really depends on what you're trying to go for.
The valve clearance wouldn't be any differant, it's just the b16 head is better all around compared to the GS-R (P72), better flow, more & better parts availability, etc. and the ITR (P73) would be fine but initial cost would be alot more...that's money that could be spent on upgrading the valvetrain, cams, and/or porting. on the B16.
The main thing is the engine management...something most people look over. Stock ECU and a piggyback controller is fine but there is so much more you can do with a standalone unit. Uberdata is cheap and Motec is crazy expensive....spend $6,000 on the complete Motec setup on one of the Honda Challenge cars. I'm really getting into the fine tuning aspect of engine building...spend a little more on a good setup and you can safely release more power while remaining reliable.
i dont know what the hell is up with my b16 but i took down a all motor ls hatch and gsr hatch, b17 hatch and a ls/vtec hatch last friday...I was told by Mike (VtecKidd) that LS/VTECs' are unreliable & that you can't rev them like you can a B16. Yes you will have more torque because of the displacement but your not going to have as much top end power, IMO. When I had my B16 I probably would've taken most LS/VTECs' out there
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I cant believe i missed this thread lol.
STOCK LS vtec vs STOCK B16, it depends what you want.
B16s can rev higher and much more reliably than an LS vtec with stock rods. Your talking about a 8500rpm redline vs a 7800rpm redline (if you want it to last)
LSVTEC will make more TQ, however at the cost of revability.
What tranny are you going to use? that makes a huge difference as well. if oyu end up using a LS tranny, then i would choose a B16 HANDS DOWN. if you are going to use a b16 tranny, then the lsvtec would be fun.
i personally like the GSR head. it bumps compression, and is a better design IMO than the b16 head. i like quench pads (sorry speedminded)
If you have to choose between a STOCK LSVTEC and a STOCK B16, i would do a B16 IMO. much more fun motor to drive. less likely hood of blowing up as well.
LSVTECs can be reliable, but i don reccomend them unless you are building them. i would rather get a GSR block , more power, and you can rev it out.
and remember, i have a b20Vtec
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wow everytime this guy replies to any posts it is basically answered in full....any more questions? lol
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