DC2 - Porsche brakes

[speedminded]

The setup i was getting fabricated is for a 15" wheel...has between an 1/8" to a 1/4" of clearance and sometimes you have to take a grinder to part of the caliper to get it to clear the wheel weights....anyways, it's a 12" rotor, still 2 inches larger than the stock, but I'm not liking how small it looks in a 16" wheel...

Of course, 1 week before the mountain run and i wanna change it all! I can shim the brackets to bring the caliper out but having to look for a larger rotor now...spent most of the day trying to figure out clearances and how big i can go. Thinking about a 13" rotor...i can always keep a spare 12" around and simply remove the shims to fit a 15" wheel w/ slicks for track days...

[Cliff]

dude jason that looks hot what are you talking about

[speedminded]

dude jason that looks hot what are you talking about

it's kinda like wheel gap...too much space [between the caliper & rotor and the wheel]!!! As it is it's way more braking than I need for street tires but going for looks too...

[Cliff]

dude those rotors are bigger than 99% of the other imports on the road lol i don't see the problem

[speedminded]

dude those rotors are bigger than 99% of the other imports on the road lol i don't see the problem

but but...the tein suspension looks hot and all but i don't wanna be able to see it because the rotors don't fill up the wheel

[Kevykev]

^ Jason don't make me come over to Nathan Drive and regulate on yo ass.

Throw 'em on and call it a day, there GOOD!.

These young people are never satisfied boy i tell yah.

[Bishop]

HAHA man those look good! IF you dont think they will cut it, you couls always send them my way

[speedminded]

HAHA man those look good! IF you dont think they will cut it, you couls always send them my way

that's a used rotor and hat from one of the race cars...it's pretty beat up. All i gotta do is shim the conversion bracket and order a bigger rotor for the hat and i'll be done...only the hats have been made yet so i'm prolly just gonna borrow a couple from the raceshop until they come in.

[Black R]

what are the specs on the calipers?

and what is the pad selection like?

[speedminded]

what are the specs on the calipers?

and what is the pad selection like?

two piston aluminum monoblock with the pads being 2 square inches larger than a stock GS-R (20% larger). All the major race pad manufacturers sell differant levels of it but i'm trying to avoid a track pad due to daily driving (they won't heat up enough) and will use the OEM Porsche pad (it's the rear caliper so they are cheap) and see how it works out. I think you can go to Hawks website and it will show the specs and compare them to the oem integra pads.

There is still a delay on the custom hats but i found a rear AEM big brake kit and taking their cheap ass crossdrilled rotors off and installing a lighter & much better quality rotor from AP Racing (I just need it for the aluminum hat). Going to run the 11.9/12" rotor but planning to order an extra pair...12.8 to 12.9" or whatever the largest is i can fit in the 16" wheel. 8 bolts and the rotor comes off the hat then i just need to install some shims on the conversion bracket...within minutes I'll have a really hugeee brake kit. My ABS is gonna freak

I'm planning to have everything on by Thursday night.

[speedminded]

I'm planning to have everything on by Thursday night.

lolol, so much for a timeframe! The first race shop sat on them for months and months but FINALLY the rotor hats/rotor bells have been machined, got anodized last week, and getting picked up soon. Now i have to figure out how big i can go on the rotors...and do i want a plain face, grooved (forward facing), curved groove (backward facing), curved grooves to the edge, cross drilled, grooved and drilled, radiused drilled, or J hook design?

http://www.apracing.com/car/brakedisc/face.htm

The pads are relatively cheap so i'm not worried about biting and chewing into them and using them up that fast with grooved or cross drilled faces but with drilled i'd rather not be cracking rotors everytime i hit rain

[IntegraXTR]

man just reading all that hurts, sounds like alot of work but I must say it is going to be well worth it.

[wantboost]

looks great

[LemonAJAX]

The setup i was getting fabricated is for a 15" wheel...has between an 1/8" to a 1/4" of clearance and sometimes you have to take a grinder to part of the caliper to get it to clear the wheel weights....anyways, it's a 12" rotor, still 2 inches larger than the stock, but I'm not liking how small it looks in a 16" wheel...

Of course, 1 week before the mountain run and i wanna change it all! I can shim the brackets to bring the caliper out but having to look for a larger rotor now...spent most of the day trying to figure out clearances and how big i can go. Thinking about a 13" rotor...i can always keep a spare 12" around and simply remove the shims to fit a 15" wheel w/ slicks for track days...

dude.. wtf kind of rims are those.. there my next wheels!!!!!!!

[speedminded]

dude.. wtf kind of rims are those.. there my next wheels!!!!!!!

nooo, why's everyone gotta be copying me Rota Subzero, a replica of the Racing Hart CP035.

[speedminded]

They're FINALLY on and been tested to their fullest extent

Had the worst time swapping the brakes though...could not get the driver's side axle out of the hub: air hammer, 20-ton press, nothing!!! Then remember that's the side i had the hit & run on and haven't had it apart since It was bent pretty badly anyways and luckily had a control arm and hub assembly at the shop but it's from a non ABS delsol so ziptied the wire and sensor to it until i can get another one.

Second problem was i knew i had a bad CV boot...had grease up on the firewall...put it on the lift and what do you know....60% of the boot was gone! arg...tried to slide the axle out and it came apart. Again, luckily had a spare boot at the shop but were out of the cv boot bands/clamps....Sooo, yet again industrial zip ties save the day

3rd problem was i was a complete idiot and didn't think about ordering new hubs & bearing....luckily the left hub was brand new on the other LCA but tried to press my old one on my passenders side. I'm sure it would have been fine if i didn't drive the hell out of it on a mountain run...by the time i could get home i had a horrible roaring noise and my -3.5° camber was looking more like -5°

Sooo, of course 7pm on a Sunday where am i going to find a bearing and hub...can buy just a bearing anywhere and cut the race out and press it in the old hub but i don't have a press and with my air compressor i can't use a ziz wheel for more than a couple minutes before running out of air...plus couldn't find the 32mm socket for the axle nut...grrrr. oh well, life of playing with cars.

As for the brakes themselves, insane. period. i don't brake much but when i do i use them hard...stock brakes with stock pads and either bad fade or braking is non-existant. Using a stock porsche pad these never once gave any problems...stopped after a hard run and took everyone's brake temps...measured mine first and the hottest part of my rotors, center to the middle, was anywhere from 75-100+° cooler than everyone elses. Actually my hottest part was 30° less than others coolest spots Using ATE super blue and with these calipers i'm going to need a master cylinder brace soon

[Buford®]

Niiiiiiiiiice. Can you do stoppies now?

[speedminded]

Niiiiiiiiiice. Can you do stoppies now?

nope But i was told i lifted my inside rear wheel up in the mountains

[Leadfoot_mf]

lolol, so much for a timeframe! The first race shop sat on them for months and months but FINALLY the rotor hats/rotor bells have been machined, got anodized last week, and getting picked up soon. Now i have to figure out how big i can go on the rotors...and do i want a plain face, grooved (forward facing), curved groove (backward facing), curved grooves to the edge, cross drilled, grooved and drilled, radiused drilled, or J hook design?

http://www.apracing.com/car/brakedisc/face.htm

The pads are relatively cheap so i'm not worried about biting and chewing into them and using them up that fast with grooved or cross drilled faces but with drilled i'd rather not be cracking rotors everytime i hit rain

i think i would go with the last one rj...

[Nittanys1]

It looks fine to me, dont worry about getting the 13'' rotors and haveing to change it when you change your rims....PITA!!

[Black R]

what is the size of the footprint (swept area) of those porsche pads?

[speedminded]

what is the size of the footprint (swept area) of those porsche pads?

20% larger than the stock GS-R pads. You can go to www.hawkperformance.com/ and look look up either the Boxster or base Carrera rear brakes for specs and compare them to the GS-R or ITR's...it shows drawings with dimensions for both (can't access that site from work otherwise i'd attach the pics)

[Black R]

ok, it asks for the year..... what model/ year are these calipers off of?

[speedminded]

ok, it asks for the year..... what model/ year are these calipers off of?

Mine were off a '98 but they are all the same as far as i know. 1996+ Boxster non-type S.

[Black R]

ok, i just went in and put in a 2002 boxter:

http://www.hawkperformance.com/parts...hape/HB291.gif

is that correct for what you have? (oh wait, that's the fronts on the boxter S...)

How about this one (you specified rear):

http://www.hawkperformance.com/parts...hape/HB290.gif



In contrast, here's the itr front pad:

http://www.hawkperformance.com/parts...hape/HB143.gif


And here's the gsr front pad:

http://www.hawkperformance.com/parts...hape/HB245.gif


Now bear with me, because the shape of the pads isn't perfectly square, so it is dificult to get the exact square inches... but if we do a simple multiplication of width times height for each, let's see how they compare....

[speedminded]

ok, i just went in and put in a 2002 boxter:

http://www.hawkperformance.com/parts...hape/HB291.gif

is that correct for what you have? (oh wait, that's the fronts on the boxter S...)

How about this one:

http://www.hawkperformance.com/parts...hape/HB290.gif

it's the rear caliper from the non-Boxster S...my work server blocks links and pics from that site so can't see them.

[Black R]

which year for the boxter?

it looks like the rear pads were the same for the S and non-S.....

[speedminded]

which year for the boxter?

it looks like the rear pads were the same for the S and non-S.....

Try the 98 and compare them...i thought the S had a differant caliper...may still use the same pad though

[Black R]

ok, so 4.41 x 2.88 for the boxter rear calipers = 12.7008

and 5.08 x 2.16 =10.9728 for the gsr fronts

and just for comparison's sake, 5.85 x 2.27 = 13.2795 for the type R fronts

so just by the basic numbers, it looks like your brakes are somewhere between the itr and gsr in terms of swept area - although this is difficult to say for certain since they aren't perfectly square anyway, and the shapes are all different as well... so these numbers are likely all larger than what is actual. I'd assume that your bigger rotors are more adept at dispersing heat, and thus fade is probably much less. How is the pedal feel?

[speedminded]

ok, so 4.41 x 2.88 for the boxter rear calipers = 12.7008

and 5.08 x 2.16 =10.9728 for the gsr fronts

and just for comparison's sake, 5.85 x 2.27 = 13.2795 for the type R fronts

so just by the basic numbers, it looks like your brakes are somewhere between the itr and gsr in terms of swept area - although this is difficult to say for certain since they aren't perfectly square anyway, and the shapes are all different as well... so these numbers are likely all larger than what is actual. I'd assume that your bigger rotors are more adept at dispersing heat, and thus fade is probably much less. How is the pedal feel?

Have experienced zero fade so far and have run the hell out of them, finally got the rotors to change colors on a mountain run too. The larger rotors and more ventilation between each face of the rotor help, plus the caliper itself is nearly twice as big and aluminum thus absorbing and dispering a majority of the heat...2 pistons on each side help too.

The pedal is perfect, don't even have to change the proportioning valve....wasn't too sure about it at first but once the rotors were bedded in it was fine. Been told a few times i will need to get a master cylinder brace soon...that much braking force will cause it to move and twist.

[iloveboost]

Good job on the DIY. I'm very impressed.

[NAIZBST]

very nice

[aaronfelipe]

Jason, they look so fucking sick man.