Another tuning question, with SAFC

[Catnip]

Ok, so under 100% throttle my AFR jumps from 11.2-11.6 and I looked exactly where my rpm intervals are and these were it:
(OLD)
-800
-1200
-2400
-3000 (-3%)
-3600 (-11%)
-4400 (-12%)
-5000 (-16%)
-5800 (-16%)
-6400 (-14%)
-6800 (-15%)
-7200 (-15%)

The car has 680cc injectors and a DSMchip to correct it, but the 680's are too big for my 16g when boosting.

I only take my car to 7000 rpms, so I lowered the last interval to 7000 rpms. Anyways, I wrote the corrections down at every interval and changed the intervals up. I don't need any corrections till 3000 rpms, but I started a little higher, here's what I came up with:
(NEW)
-3400 (-11%)
-4000 (-11%)
-4400 (-12%)
-4800 (-12%)
-5200 (-16%)
-5400 (-16%)
-5800 (-16%)
-6000 (-14%)
-6400 (-14%)
-6600 (-14%)
-6800 (-15%)
-7000 (-15%)

I haven't ran it like this because I wanted everyone's opinions before I pushed the car with these settings, I'm new to all this

[slostang]

why dont you just save up and get a real tune before you blow something up.

[Revmaynard]

x2

[Catnip]

why dont you just save up and get a real tune before you blow something up.

How is increasing the ability to make my car rich gonna blow something?

[slostang]

How is increasing the ability to make my car rich gonna blow something?

if you run too rich with the wrong timing settings crankwalking will be the least of your problems.

[Catnip]

if you run too rich with the wrong timing settings crankwalking will be the least of your problems.

0 knock @ 0rpms-7200rpms
crankwalk? in a rebuilt 6 bolt...

...that's like a honda being un-reliable.

[slostang]

I stand behind all of my posts in this thread and will no longer post in this thread because of ignorance to legit sugestions.

[Catnip]

I stand behind all of my posts in this thread and will no longer post in this thread because of ignorance to legit sugestions.

Thanks, but a legit suggestion would not include telling me to take my car somewhere to get it tuned. A legit suggestion would include some type of advice on changes to make to my SAFC settings. I didn't ask "should I take this somewhere to get it tuned, or should I do it myself?" I simply wanted feedback whether or not I'm going in the right direction with my changes.

[nemean]

thats why tuners love honda heads... they'd rather pay them 300-400 bucks rather than buying a wideband and tuning themselves You only have to pay what? nothin for basic tuning software?
Quit bein a prick b/c you drive a piece of ****.



Yea evan you arent going to mess anything up, just lets you tune at closer intervals.

[Big J]

I run a data logger and as few correction points as possible. I put them at rich and lean peaks and then bring it in check at those points. I think I have 4 points covering 3500 RPMs in open loop. It's quicker than tuning a point every 400 rpms,1 adjustment at one point affects a larger range. It works for me better than tuning a whole **** load of points.

[Catnip]

I run a data logger and as few correction points as possible. I put them at rich and lean peaks and then bring it in check at those points. I think I have 4 points covering 3500 RPMs in open loop. It's quicker than tuning a point every 400 rpms,1 adjustment at one point affects a larger range. It works for me better than tuning a whole **** load of points.

So I should have bigger intervals? I had a 1000 rpm interval at one time and it would go insanely rich before it hit the RPM of the next interval. I brought the points a little closer after that and it stayed a little more steady. Am I missing something? (not trying to come off like I'm not listening, just wondering.)

What do you mean with the second sentence?

[Paree4g63]

custom tune FTW! give you props for learning/trying the routine but I still think nothing beats a custom tune in person.

[Big J]

My intervals are determined by peaks and low spots in my AFR.

I datalog so I get an AFR line in a graph with RPM, throttle position, MAF voltage, (boost and EGT are optional).

I'll do a pull with corrections set to 0 and check the datalog. my intervals will be determined by where AFR comes to a high or low point. If I set a correction point at the low area leading into a high point, an interval at the peak, and then another at the low point coming off the peak, I can then: pull the low points up to even them out with the high point so now the AFR will be steady across the 3 points, OR bring the high point down to make all three even (or pretty close). If I set the first point to my desired AFR and then bring all the peaks and low points into line, the car is tuned. The SAFC will fill in the blanks between the the points I set, and because between the low and high is pretty close to a line, the interpolation the SAFC uses will get it pretty close.

With fewer points if there is a change in my tune due to drastic weather changes, I only have to move a few points, and usually close to an even amount to each correction point to bring the entire AFR up or down.

You can roughly (but carefully) tune a car with 2 correction points at the low and high RPM pints in open loop to get the beginning and ending points to the desired AFR, and then knock down the high points and bring the low points up to get the AFR where it needs to be across the entire range.

The SAFC will not adjust fuel in closed loop, BUT IT WILL adjust fuel/ecu compensation by playing with the corrections in open loop. This has a direct effect on the tuning in open loop. With no tuning in open loop I end up with about 17-18* total timing under high loads, and the tune will wander as the fuel trims set.

If I tune at idle in low throttle and the low RPMs in closed to bring fuel trims close to 0%, the tune won't wander and I end up with timing in the 13-14* range under high loads, which is much better for pump gas. I used to taper the AFR rich past 5k as the RPMs came up, but with the timing tapering off now I don't have to.

Every car and engine management system is different, but fuel injection technology is basically the same car to car. It took me a while to figure out this car, but it's well worth the effort, and tuning myself has saved me a ton of money and kept my engine together for sure.

www.zeitronix.com <----- the bomb if you want to tune your self

[Catnip]

I got ya now. I'd more or less be putting an interval where it's needed rather than just making them all close together.
-5200 (-16%)
-5400 (-16%)
-5800 (-16%)
-6000 (-14%)
-6400 (-14%)
-6600 (-14%)
So instead of 6 intervals here, I'd just have 2, correct?

The last part about adjusting the trims at idle for low throttle... you're saying that will help my high throttle timing?

[teh_mugen18]

BUMP for yoo sir

[SiRed94]

Another tuning question, with SAFC

there is no such thing...

[Catnip]

there is no such thing...

with a honda...


My friend was gonna buy your fo do civic the day you sold it.

[nemean]

slovic is a bit for neg repping me.
Just thought i would let you know.

[EmminoDaGreat]

I dont know why everyone is acting like an afc is something bad, for a 240,Eclipse,Srt4 things of that nature they work great....

And making it run rich is not going to hurt him and cause it to blow up, if anything he just made less power,safer by being fatter.... But its probably minor changes to what you had... best thing is to get a wideband, datalogger etc... and take your time doing it...

[Motivation]

Well, actually I own the car now... lol. Everything got zero'd out on the safc last weekend. Found out at the track last night. Me and evan fixed it a little, with what we did I picked up 11 mph in the next run and dropped almost a second. But it is still running WAY rich... Looking to get a bigger intercooler, better BOV, and put my header manifold on, then get a REAL tune and do it right. Any suggestions on a shop near the southside/Mcdonough area, Emmino? I don't mind driving a distance to do it, just prefer something closer...

[Catnip]

Well, actually I own the car now... lol. Everything got zero'd out on the safc last weekend. Found out at the track last night. Me and evan fixed it a little, with what we did I picked up 11 mph in the next run and dropped almost a second. But it is still running WAY rich... Looking to get a bigger intercooler, better BOV, and put my header manifold on, then get a REAL tune and do it right. Any suggestions on a shop near the southside/Mcdonough area, Emmino? I don't mind driving a distance to do it, just prefer something closer...

Tim, get those settings I listed above and that should get you to like high 13's
(to change the intervals go to "settings" then "NE points" then change them to the ones above.)

[RickyBobbyV6]

anyone know where 2 get any gas around griffin/zebulon

[Motivation]

anyone know where 2 get any gas around griffin/zebulon

Why do you come in this thread with a pointless question that has nothing to do with anything on this subject? Makes more sense to put it in a different section where people might actually look that live around that area. I don't live around that area anymore, so I have no clue...



Oh, I heard from someone that still lives down there, that you were riding through Griffin with a guy riding on the back of your motorcycle? four nuts + two wheels= nut to butt=

[evo9gsr]

hasn't been mentioned but are you logging with a wideband or the factory o2 sensor?

[Motivation]

It has a AEM wideband. I will hopefully with in two weeks be taking it down to get it tuned by a shop. I'd feel better with them doing the fine tuning...

[twinj]

four nuts + two wheels= nut to butt=

lmao

[Got Milk?]

why dont you just save up and get a real tune before you blow something up.

I just LIRL.