Someone told me to get some new bearings for my swap?
Found this website:
http://www.tunerschoice.com/xq/aspx/...qx/Product.htm
They have the B18B or the B18C1. Which one would be better?
Someone told me to get some new bearings for my swap?
Found this website:
http://www.tunerschoice.com/xq/aspx/...qx/Product.htm
They have the B18B or the B18C1. Which one would be better?
if ur using a ls bottom end i would use the ls bearings thats just me.
Last edited by no mo hondas; 05-29-2008 at 02:38 AM.
you need to use the bearings for the crank your using some are narrower than others
^^^
Sounds good to me. Thanks guys.
the one you'll need is part # 9351946
fo sho
Do I need to get the whole kit?Originally Posted by pxhoang0408
#9351904
^^ If you have the engine broken down that far, then go get the crank turned... they will put the bearing sizes you need on the crank-card.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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Yeah, it's down that far. Lol. So I guess I can do that then. Thanks. But I do need to order the bearings and give it to the mechanic to put it on right? Or is part of their job is to measure and order?
No - you go to the COMPETENT machine shop of your choice -- preferabbly one familiar w/ imports -- but for turning a crank they should all be fairly equal. They will turn the crank and measure it for bearings (chances are it will still be STD when they are done, but u never know).
Your crank will be returned to you in a heavy plastic bag, and have a toe-tag on it (crank card) --- will tell the date it was turned and/or micropolished and they will put a caliper on it and provide the size bearings you will need (as I said, unless your crank is garbage it should be STD).
THEN you take that information and order the appropriate size from ACL. And do NOT get the "race" bearings... just get the regular ACL bearings. I truly hope a "mechanic" is not assembling your engine - but we have to use the resources given to us I guess. Mechanics rotate my tires and refill my radiator - lol - they don't assemble my blocks... but if he is competent, once you get the bearings... new bottom end gasket set, rods, water/oil pumps etc he can assemble your bottom end.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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Is it hard to put these bearings on? I never assembled a engine in my life, so I will definitely be using all the resources I can.
bearings just push in with your fingers. if its an ls vtec than get ls bearings. don't turn your crank unless you want to ruin any chance of it being a good performing crank for higher power.
www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
Daily D: 2007 Dodge 2500 MEGA CAB, Cummins Turbo Diesel
Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
that's arguable.![]()
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Also - we're talking about your basic LS/V. If that crank has been stored anywhere else OTHER than the block and/or stored improperly I would get it turned.
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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that would be the shop bitchOriginally Posted by BABY J
LOL @ DaRon
"I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."![]()
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I dont know anyone who has tunred a honda crank. Just get propper sized bearings or "size the rods"
[QUOTE=BABY J]
THEN you take that information and order the appropriate size from ACL. And do NOT get the "race" bearings... just get the regular ACL bearings.
[QUOTE]
the only difference is the coating on the bearing if you ever see both, the race bearing coating is closer to a factory honda bearing than the std acl bearings.
i know people than have run them for 20k plus miles. many people think since they say race they wear faster thats not true.
the acl race bearing has NO coating. Ive used both, never seen any difference when pulling them back out...except cost.
www.MSSRACING.com - 99 Civic CX - Best ET: 9.53 / Best MPH: 160 - Competition Clutch - Arias Pistons - Coatings M.D. - Mahle-Clevite - ebtec - AHobbs Racing - JKOBD - TDC Performance
Daily D: 2007 Dodge 2500 MEGA CAB, Cummins Turbo Diesel
Cool so I will order the whole kit tomorrow then.
Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
Smartest thing i have every heard on IA...
Honda CRANKS Never need to be turned or balanced, unless the motor has grenaded or the crank is visibly scored.
Hondas are not Chevy's or Fords with a Cast P.O.S crankshaft
Honda cranks are forged and can take upwards of 1200bph
Originally Posted by SPOOLIN
The ACL race bearing also have a Tighter tolerance.. Plasti-gauge some normal ACL bearings and then do the same on the same journal with the race bearing..
This is what ACL told me when they sponsored my NDRA Pro turbo 4 Honda
So do I need to order the whole kit:
ACL Bearing Kit - B18B
Includes: Honda B-Series Main Bearings, Honda B18A1/B1, B17A1 Rod Bearing, and Honda B/D-Series Thrust Bearing
Or just rod bearings?
I would just order the whole kit, And replace everything while your in there.. I mean hell your already there, and that way everything will be on the same Timeline for wearing.Originally Posted by tchill
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Sounds good to me man. Thanks.Originally Posted by Jordanmd88
Your not to far from Engine Parts Center off Maxim Rd.
pm me.
They can sell you a complete bottom end kit for your car or a complete rebuild kit.
You get to choose a few parts.
Bearings,Rings and the gaskets.
I have rebuilt 7 motors with there stuff,from a 1.5 honda to a 351 ford.
For a v8 I spent 300-400 for the complete kit,with a new oil pump,rings,all bearings,rods,mains,cam.Full gasket set upper and lower + Timing.
Only thing it did not come with was a rod bolt strech gauge,tourqe wrench and a spring compressor,lol.
Worth a shot,local and great prices.
Thanks for the info man. I wish I wouldn't have ordered them already so I could check out their prices. Good times either way though. Reps.Originally Posted by 92siLude