the milling isn't really worth the downfalls it causes. you can pick up power for cheap in other areas without milling the head just chose you mods wisely and it should make the same power.
smote on here had a 174whp b16 with type r head intake mani and crower 403 cams with a dc header.
so just buy somedecent cams or something and go from there i always look at head milling as the last resort even after welding the chambers because it seem to be a cheap way out for the little power you get
Originally Posted by all-mota
I'm steps ahead of ya homie.
Basically my motor is "fully-bolted" and there's not really anything left to do beside going into the block (which isn't worth it on a b16) or getting head work (which is coming in my next build). My goal is to get around 170hp out of a stock port/stock bottom end b16, then building a 2.0L motor. I wasn't too far from my goal the last time I dynoed my car (156hp). I was obd0 then, untuned using a stock pw0 map, revving to 8200, and I didn't have all the mods I have now (Since then I converted to obd1 with a chipped p28, switched exhaust, buddyclub spec II exhaust now,...).
So to achieve this goal, I just thought of bumping my compression ratio up a little bit with milling the head, using a thinner headgasket (mugen or spoon) and flat face valves. Then changing my valve springs and retainers also (to rev a little higher). Then getting dyno tuned. So I'm just trying to get all of the hp out of this little 1.6L before I move to bigger and better things.
(I'm doing this now rather than starting the other build because I have another EF, so once I get done with this motor, it's getting swapped into my other car and the CRX is getting the new heart. So I'm killing two birds with one stone)
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