how reliable are b20 vtec and is there any real problems with them
also if u rebuild it for race then is it good or bad
thanks
how reliable are b20 vtec and is there any real problems with them
also if u rebuild it for race then is it good or bad
thanks
it is as reliable as you build and drive it...
thats it in a nut shell. u drop in a stock b20 vtec and rev the piss out of it good luck. build it a lil before u drop it in or dont get all vtec crazy and u stand a good chance of having a reliable motor.Originally Posted by SiRed94
The only bad thing I've heard about building a B20/VTEC for high performance is that they have thin sleeves.
b20/vtec, and ls/vtec can be reliable.
i have heard so many retarded people say they have to many problems. They have problems cause the people who built them, don't know what they are doing.
just do it right. and you won't have an issue
1996 4dr Integra
1992 Mr2 Turbo
RPM = Ruins People's Motors
yep he says it all..........................![]()
exactly.. my personl experience: 5 years, about 50k, great power, 30mpg, never had to open it. leaks nothing.Originally Posted by Mr2raceworks
its all in how you put it together. do it right, do it once.
Paintless Dent Removal TechnicianCondemnant quod non intellegunt
yup keep the cost down and the mods mild and your wallet wont be exhausted
ummm. ya i alreadybuilt it and found out all the info i need i broke 203 to thw wheel and not done till i have 220-50 all motor and tryin not to spray but i might have to
ONE DAY
i have a friend doing a B20VTEC swap now. i chose not to do the head swap and did a 75 shot. head was remilled and ported w/ a 5angle valve job. Crower 404-2 cams, ARP head studs. i made 203 / 197 @ the wheels. 156 / 148 NA. (that was stock injectors, and pump gas. i've got RC330ccs' now and 106 octane to mix on the next tune) my friend is wanting 180ish+ whp. *shrugs* we'll see.
B20B/B18C1
That has nothing to do with VTEC or RPM.Originally Posted by TR_Accord
I revved my stock GSR block to 9900rpms for oh i dont know, about a year. then i sold it, then someone else drove it for about a year before the oil pump failed.
If your motor rod knocked it was because of an oil pressure failure or an incorrect bearing size
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We found out that the problem was that someone had switched the #1 and #4 bearings in the block. The #4 bearing was too lose which caused it to spin, and the #1 bearing was too tight in which the crank and rod ate it up. So we'll have to go with a new crank and rods.Originally Posted by TR_Accord
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Q:Nitrous on stock LS high mileage. Too risky?
A:IMO nos is like steroids and giving steroids to a grandma doesnt sound all that good to me!