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Thread: 88 CRX si brakes question-dilemma

  1. #1
    Senior Member SL65AMG's Avatar
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    Default 88 CRX si brakes question-dilemma

    i replaced the rear shoes and wheel cylinders and bled the brakes. The problem is that i dont have a stiff brake pedal at all. i havent driven it anywhere because they dony work. pedal goes all the way to the floor and has no resistance basically at all.... anyone got any clues?

    vacuum leak?
    air in the lines?
    bad MC/ booster??


    and i noticed that when the car is running and i press on the brake pedal real fast the rpms go up..... yeah i know that sounds ****ed up but it happened. thats why i think there may be a vacuum leak....(and the car whistles at a certain position in the throttle while driving). but i dont know how those would be connected or if it was even possible.


    anyone had a similar problem in the past, and what was the solution?
    EF SQUAD FTMFW!!!!

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    IA's ICE CREAM MAN JDMJAYDC2's Avatar
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    do you have a stiff pedal when the car is at a stand still? at a stand still do you press the brake and it gets firm but then slowly decends to the floor? if so its your master happend to me in the hatch and the teg go figure! but its a good chance you have air in the lines as well i say buy a new master and see what happens mine was i think 60 or so with the core at napa AAA discount FTW!
    now with LSD
    got an ef? www.eastcoastefcivics.com


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    did you bleed just the rear?


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    IA SITE SPONSOR! silversol's Avatar
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    are you leaking fluid? check those wheel cyls in the back!
    Hella stock member!

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    LCpl; USMC EvasiveEF9's Avatar
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    We had a similar problem to this with the disc swap on Cato's car...man, I don't know what to tell you, but I'm subscribing to see what happens...and try to offer thoughts if I get any.
    JDMadness ==> EvasiveEF9

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    Senior Member SL65AMG's Avatar
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    Jay thanks fr the info man. the pedal feels so-so when the car is off. its still not normal but better than when the car is on. as soon as the car is turned on the pedal has no resistance at all and goes all the way to the floor with no hesitation. thats the reason i was considering a vacuum problem.

    joker ill keep u updated.... im probably going to get a new MC anyways. its not like a new one would hurt anything. im gonna bleed the lines completely and start over. let you all know how it goes.

    and aaron, yes i bled all 4..... the rears more-so than the fronts because i didnt open the lines on the front. i went back a 2nd time and did just the rears because i was trying to see if there was air in the lines still.... but today im gonna do all 4 completely.


    wish me luck, lol.


    anyone know how to test for a vacuum leak?
    EF SQUAD FTMFW!!!!

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    Senior Member SL65AMG's Avatar
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    well i installed the new MC and bled the brake lines completely. problem solved. the old MC went bad i guess....

    and ben did you change out the MC to 40/40 when you did the disc swap? something about the pressures or some ****. you know what im talkin about.
    EF SQUAD FTMFW!!!!

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    LCpl; USMC EvasiveEF9's Avatar
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    Yes, I do...

    But with cato's, he needed a 35/40 as opposed to the 4040. He did stock fronts on rear disc. My guess is the boy needs to change his MC...but I haven't heard from him in a minute.
    JDMadness ==> EvasiveEF9

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    Mountain man green91's Avatar
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    when you bleed brakes on an old MC sometimes it eats the cup seals up since the pedal is pressed farther than it normally is, it happens. this is why i recommend a vacuum brake bleeder

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    LCpl; USMC EvasiveEF9's Avatar
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    At the same time, if your MC is that worn...it might be a reasonable idea to replace it, anyways...
    JDMadness ==> EvasiveEF9

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    Senior Member SL65AMG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvasiveEF9
    Yes, I do...

    But with cato's, he needed a 35/40 as opposed to the 4040. He did stock fronts on rear disc. My guess is the boy needs to change his MC...but I haven't heard from him in a minute.
    oh, gotcha... i knew there were a few different ones. maybe the 40/40 is used for EG or DA brake swaps or something....
    EF SQUAD FTMFW!!!!

  12. #12
    Senior Member SL65AMG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by green91
    when you bleed brakes on an old MC sometimes it eats the cup seals up since the pedal is pressed farther than it normally is, it happens. this is why i recommend a vacuum brake bleeder
    thats probably what happened... i dont know why else the MC would just break like that... it was old looking.... maybe the original or the 1st replacement.

    how much does said brake bleeder cost.... and not some cheap-o pos. a decent one that will do a good job and last a while.
    EF SQUAD FTMFW!!!!

  13. #13
    LCpl; USMC EvasiveEF9's Avatar
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    Check AutoZone for like what...10$? Look it up online. They're cheap.
    JDMadness ==> EvasiveEF9

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    Mountain man green91's Avatar
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    you can get handheld vac bleeders on the low, mine is a pneumatic and it was around $100, but it makes brake bleeding a 1 person 15 minute job.

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    Senior Member SL65AMG's Avatar
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    cool. thanks. i was thinkin it would be around 100 bux or so. but the few times i have to bleed my brakes it just doesnt seem like a worthwhile investment
    EF SQUAD FTMFW!!!!

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